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Thread: Who machines cherry cutters for molds?

  1. #21
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    ohio
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    If your only planning on doing a few molds you don't need a super expensive self centering vise.

    I've dabbled in making a few molds and I use a grizzly vise , I think it was a bit over $100 and works just fine for me after making a set of soft jaws with a pocket and set screws to hold the blocks .

    There are a couple companies out there that will make a cherry for you . They aren't cheap though , average cost is going to be $350 or so .
    I choose to make my own from 01 tool steel , cut the profile on the lathe and do the flutes on the mill . Harden and temper then hone it sharp . .. going with an odd number of flutes seems to make things work better with straight flutes for some reason

    I feel like I should mention , unless I want something I can't buy , it's cheaper to just buy a mold in the long term .

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    Give Dave Kiff a call at PTG

    http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/
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    – Amber Veal

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  3. #23
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    3,639
    I have made my own cherries and cut a couple of molds.
    I have a massive centering vise that was made in China and sold under the name “Edison” for trade schools. I found it on Craigslist up in the northeast and had it shipped.
    I bought a couple of cherries from the estate of a gentleman name Egan that made his own cherries to see what they looked like. You can tell that they were made by hand.
    I cut a 30 cal tapered mold with it and it came out fine and sold it to a member here who was very happy with it.
    I have since bought a couple of 22 cal cherries made by the same gentleman from a member here but have not gotten around to cutting any molds with them. These all are nose pour molds and are very touchy because they get very thin at the top where the nose comes to a point.
    I made a couple of 38 cal spire point molds with a cherry I made and bend sharpened using a jig from the Machinist Bedside Reader #3, which is not in print any longer and the price for one is out of sight! You can find pictures of it by Googling it.
    The problem I have is figuring out how to measure the height of the flutes while the cherry is in the jig and how much to allow for shrinkage when the bullet cools.
    I have used 1/2” 01 drill rod without hardening to cut aluminum with satisfactory results.
    I would like to find a person skilled in cutter sharpening by hand.
    Dave Manson designed the jig to make match chamber reamers from standard chamber reamers.
    I moved a couple of years ago and have been trying to get organized and had an eye problem so I have not been able to get back to working on bullet mold projects!
    Last edited by deltaenterprizes; 08-06-2019 at 02:36 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check