MidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan ReloadingRepackboxPBcastco
Load DataLee PrecisionInline FabricationReloading Everything
RotoMetals2 Wideners
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 47 of 47

Thread: Paper that DOESN'T work

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy Old Coot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    332
    Any petroleum based solvent mixture will not remove chlorate salts. Use hot soapy water, and rinse with hot water followed by oiling the cleaned barrel.
    To test your primers to see if they leave rust producing salts: Take a 3" putty knife, remove all oil and or grease, polish the blade to a bright shine with fine abrasive paper, fire a primed cartridge into the blade from about one to 3 inches, place the blade overnight in a humid atmosphere (a wet rag at the bottom of a seal able container {ie. tupperware} over night. The next day the blade will show a close shotgun like pattern of rust where the priming compound hit it. The rest of the blade may show some rusting, but if the primer is the cause it will be very apparent.
    Good luck , Brodie

  2. #42
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    9,078
    Thanks, I'll try that. My pig gun has a problem in that the suppressor is not removable so the hot soapy water is a problem. Maybe swabbing would get it out. I don't have to use the suspect primers in that gun though.
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  3. #43
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    94
    Ok, so I put together another bunch of cartridges after cleaning my gun from the small bit of leading after the last go-round in the hopes of finding an accurate load, now that I found a system that works. I used the unsized bullets and ran three down the gun with the 30gr of IMR 3031 again just to make sure it still worked. And guess what? It didn't. There was no confetti and the barrel leaded up. I was so confused. I cleaned the barrel again and then sized the bullets down (like .001") and ran 3 through and I got no leading and confetti again, so that was a relief. I then ran 3 unsized bullets through, and then functioned well with confetti. Then I ran 3 through with 34 gr of IMR 3031 and unsized bullets. The first shot confettied, however the second and third did not. And there was a thin and uniform patch of leading all the way around the barrel for what appeared to be the last 7". So, I guess my patch is just failing? I'm only patching 3/4 of the way to the ogive because if I patch further the bullet gets pushed way back into the case when I chamber it. So maybe thats a part of the reason? Any suggestions?

  4. #44
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    94
    Ok, took some more bullets out today after cleaning the Mosin once again. After firing a couple shots (about 6, with confetti) it started looking like soot coming out instead. There appeared to be some sort of buildup in the barrel, I couldn't tell if it was heavy carbon deposits or light uniform leading. After shooting about 20 more (with increasingly miserable accuracy. Began with shooting at a sheet of paper and by the end wasn't hitting a 2x2' board at 10 yds) I checked the barrel and there was most definitely leading. My question is, is it possible that my load is producing an unusual amount of carbon, which is decreasing the bore size, and thereby shredding the patch as I progress shooting? Is that even possible?

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    9,078
    I don't think so. One of my rough bore rifles leads with just one shot. It's just a fine grey wash, visible by shining a light into the muzzle. Looking down the bore it appears as a matt appearance on the lands near the muzzle. Patches disintegrate with very low charges too. Anyway, that Scotch Brite patch trick pulls out flakes of lead. Now I'm talking about one or two shots.
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  6. #46
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    94
    Hmm, k, thanks. Thats helpful.

  7. #47
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    LA County
    Posts
    45
    Quote Originally Posted by thirtythirty View Post
    Interesting. Where do you get carnauba wax? I'll maybe have to give that a shot. Sorry, dumb question, but what is STP. I looked it up and it looks like a whole line of fuel additives/lubes/etc.
    For carnauba wax (and other stuff) see "thesage";
    wax: https://tinyurl.com/y8gn4a2c
    The "OLD" STP mix had a lot of zinc, etc to help keep metal-to-metal contact in a rotating engine minimal. Especially for older engines. Which made it a good bullet lube component. BUT the byproducts of combusting these additives had a tendency to plug up cat converters. Especially for older engines. BTW, if you have a housemate with feminine qualities, "thesage" can afflict you with a ridiculously cute and slightly costly hobbyist. Tho a drop or three of peppermint oil goes a long way in your bullet lube.
    Last edited by gidgaf; 09-24-2018 at 08:30 AM. Reason: forgot a word

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check