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Thread: S&W model 29 skipping cylinders

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master


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    S&W model 29 skipping cylinders

    I've been playing around with various handguns lately, and the latest has been an old S&W model 29 (it may be another variant), it is a 10 5/8" barrel silhouette model. I shot 8 through 9.5 grains of american select powder behind a 210 grain SWC hollow point. These were rather light loads, but I had problems early. This gun has been shot only a few times a year, and this is the first time I've gotten to try it. The first 3 shots were touching, then a flyer, and the last went click. I opened the gun up, and found it had skipped the last one. I shot my next 5, and it skipped every other. I repeated it a 3rd time, before stopping. This was shot slowly, single action, from a sandbag. I noticed the gun has some very minor cylinder end play, but did not measure it. I've been reading about cylinder skipping when shooting fast, but never shooting groups, especially from light loads. Any ideas? The last 5 I watched carefully, and when cocking the hammer, it only goes over to the next cylinder. When it skips, it seems to be during firing.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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    I bought a 10 5/8 M29 shortly after they came out. I experienced the same problem. My gunsmith worked on it for several days and finally traced it to a out of spec firing pin. Came from the factory that way. After replacement, it fired normally. If you've never fired it much, you might check that first as S & W could have put out a batch with out of tolerance pins./beagle
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master Dan Cash's Avatar
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    I suspect you need the attention of S&W or Cylinder and Slide. That Silhouette revolver could look pristine but still have been rode hard and put up wet with very heav loads and a bunch of them. I don't think a firing pin is going to have anything to do with skipping a bolt notch.
    To paraphrase Ronald Reagan, the trouble with many shooting experts is not that they're ignorant; its just that they know so much that isn't so.

  4. #4
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    I had a 10 5/8" M29 way back in the day. With heavy loads mine would do the same thing. I never did get it fixed as it was stolen when I was in Alaska...
    Anyway, I read about the problem in a gun mag and S&W's fix was to lengthen the bolt notch and put a heavier spring in on the next model change.
    It does seem odd that it was doing it with light loads. Maybe the bolt spring is very weak?

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master
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    A guy I shoot with quite a bit had the "skipping" thing happen in his 4" Model 57, vintage 1975. It occurred most often when the cylinder had fired 2-3 rounds, so that one "side" of the cylinder was "heavier" than the other, and he was firing the more vigorous 41 Magnum loadings. The combined effects of of the unbalanced cylinder AND a 30-year-old bolt spring caused the issue. I replaced the bolt spring for him, and the revolver has purred ever since.

    Cleaning out the bolt spring/bolt gallery area every couple years is a good idea, too.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master


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    This is not my gun, it is my dads. He bought it used many years ago, and as far as I know, it could have been used heavily for what it was intended (silhouette). I've heard too many things about S&W and heavy bullets, else the 320 grain SSK is awesome in a Ruger. I don't remember the gun ever having this issue before, but I don't remember it ever being shot off a rest either. I have to wonder if the relatively limp wrist-ed hold on the bags had any effect? It's odd you mention the heavier side of the cylinder, I was only loading up 5 at a time. I'll look into the bolt spring. This gun has likely not seen a deep clean in many years.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Not a S & W but had a Taurus 605 that the cylinder skipped and sometimes backed up. It only did it with hotter loads not with 38's. Took a while but finally figured out it was the cylinder bolt had a weak spring.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I just got done looking it over. I have a model 57 (41 mag version of the 29) to compare it to, and the bolt spring seems reasonably strong on both. The model 57 has never missed a beat, even with strong 230 grain loads. I measured end play on the model 29 at about .007", which I may want to take up before going farther. For giggles, I measured the model 57 end play, and found about .004"-.005". Strangely I can't hardly see or feel it on the model 57, while the model 29 has obvious end play. The gun seems to be in perfect time, and I could not see any wear on the cylinder notches, or hand. I think I'll try one more trip to the range, and if it does it again, it may be time for the gunsmith with a better eye than mine.

  9. #9
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    While it seems odd to me that a firing pin would do this I don't believe Beagle has ever steered someone wrong. I would look into that.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
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    My 29 was rode hard when I bought it 27 years ago. I've had the hand worked on twice and it needs it a third time. It actually needs a trip to S&W to have it gone over. Any more it's harder to find an experienced local gunsmith who really knows revolvers.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Now you know why Smith and Wesson modified the lock work on their N frames to the "enhanced" version. Silhouette shooters were putting so much stress on the lock work that they cylinders would skip and even turn backwards. Your handgun needs the attention of a good Smith and Wesson mechanic to put it right.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Char-Gar nailed it & the lengthened bolt notch is one of the first steps.

    Dick

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Boogieman's Avatar
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    Before I would send this to S&W I remove the grips and give it a good flushing with Gun Scrubber And blow it out with high pressure air. relub with a good gun oil & dry fire about 100 times. A buildup of crud or old oil [WWD40] could be slowing things down inside
    The 3 people a man must be able to trust completely are his gunsmith his doctor & his preacher ..,his gunsmith for his short term health ,his doctor for long term health ,and his preacher incase one of the others mess up.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Char-Gar View Post
    Now you know why Smith and Wesson modified the lock work on their N frames to the "enhanced" version. Silhouette shooters were putting so much stress on the lock work that they cylinders would skip and even turn backwards. Your handgun needs the attention of a good Smith and Wesson mechanic to put it right.

    Had an old 29 that I sent down the road for this issue. Should have been more patient and had it fixed. Was accurate otherwise. The cylinder latch was a known issue of that era

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by osteodoc08 View Post
    Had an old 29 that I sent down the road for this issue. Should have been more patient and had it fixed. Was accurate otherwise. The cylinder latch was a known issue of that era
    I did find the issue with accuracy. It seems I was a little high on powder, and the 25-1 alloy couldn't take it. It was some of the worst leading I've been the cause of. Sizing was ok at .431", which is a snug fit in the throats, and the bore just over .429". Lube was canaruba red. The mold doesn't cast centered hollow points anyway, I did not have high hopes for accuracy. I'll probably end up buying some solid SWC bullets to try if the gun gets fixed.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    One thing that has not been mentioned is that this situation can be shooter induced by not allowing the trigger to fully return to the forward position not allowing the sear to reset the hammer.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by hp246 View Post
    One thing that has not been mentioned is that this situation can be shooter induced by not allowing the trigger to fully return to the forward position not allowing the sear to reset the hammer.
    I was shooting groups, single action off of sand bags.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    I had several 29s and 629s about 30 years ago; all had that problem so I finally gave up on S&W .44 Mags. None of my other N frames ever did that; only the .44 Mags.
    I once mentioned the problem here and was accused by a well known member of "beating up those fine revolvers with Ruger-only loads." Which was a completely baseless accusation, btw.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tracy View Post
    I had several 29s and 629s about 30 years ago; all had that problem so I finally gave up on S&W .44 Mags. None of my other N frames ever did that; only the .44 Mags.
    I once mentioned the problem here and was accused by a well known member of "beating up those fine revolvers with Ruger-only loads." Which was a completely baseless accusation, btw.
    The newer 29s and 629s with the "enhanced lockwork" will give no issues as mentioned above. I bought this one in 1992 and it is the most accurate handgun I own.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Smith and Wesson 629.jpg  
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master JMax's Avatar
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    The condition described is called throw by. It can usually be corrected by removing the hump on the cylinder stop body(NOT) the part that engaged the cylinder stop notch in the cylinder. Learned that in S&W Revolvers Armorers school the two time I took the class when I was a LEO armorer.

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