S&W model 29 skipping cylinders

[CJR]

This recoil induced cylinder skipping, on S&W 29s has been known ever since they came out. The cylinder lock bolt unlatches during recoil and the cylinder rotates backwards. This is not what you want in a critical life-threatening situation. I'd recommend you find the best smith out there for 29s and send it to him rather than S&W. The fact that this issue is still around after all these years doesn't say much for S&W's Customer Service. If S&W really wanted to solve this problem they would've recalled all 29s years ago and fixed the problem once and for all. It probably would have cost S&W $20-$50 or less/gun for the fix.

Best regards,

CJR

[megasupermagnum]

This recoil induced cylinder skipping, on S&W 29s has been known ever since they came out. The cylinder lock bolt unlatches during recoil and the cylinder rotates backwards. This is not what you want in a critical life-threatening situation. I'd recommend you find the best smith out there for 29s and send it to him rather than S&W. The fact that this issue is still around after all these years doesn't say much for S&W's Customer Service. If S&W really wanted to solve this problem they would've recalled all 29s years ago and fixed the problem once and for all. It probably would have cost S&W $20-$50 or less/gun for the fix.

Best regards,

CJR

I assume this gun was built a good 30 years ago, and it's not their fault it's never been fixed either. Like I said, my dad has owned it for 20-25 years, and I doubt he put 100 rounds through it. He only ever shot it offhand, and I'm guessing my loose grip off sand bags has to do with it. He also used to have a scope on it, which would have helped even more. I think I see what guys are saying, with that rear bolt, which is a tiny pin. That must be compressing under recoil, and with a little slop, allowing it to rotate. The spring seems reasonably strong to me. There is also some end play which can't be helping, and I should be able to fix myself. I think I'll try even lighter loads next time, and see how it does.

[Char-Gar]

I assume this gun was built a good 30 years ago, and it's not their fault it's never been fixed either. Like I said, my dad has owned it for 20-25 years, and I doubt he put 100 rounds through it. He only ever shot it offhand, and I'm guessing my loose grip off sand bags has to do with it. He also used to have a scope on it, which would have helped even more. I think I see what guys are saying, with that rear bolt, which is a tiny pin. That must be compressing under recoil, and with a little slop, allowing it to rotate. The spring seems reasonably strong to me. There is also some end play which can't be helping, and I should be able to fix myself. I think I'll try even lighter loads next time, and see how it does.

No, you don't get it. The bolt is not the pin in the recoil shield that is activated by the cylinder thumb latch. The bolt is the oblong piece in the bottom of thy frame cylinder window that rises when the hammer is cocked and goes into the notches on the side of the cylinder to keep the cylinder from turning when in battery.

I am not trying to be demeaning, just truthful, but you can't fix it yourself as you are not familiar with revolver mechanics. Pay somebody who does to do the job.

[megasupermagnum]

No, you don't get it. The bolt is not the pin in the recoil shield that is activated by the cylinder thumb latch. The bolt is the oblong piece in the bottom of thy frame cylinder window that rises when the hammer is cocked and goes into the notches on the side of the cylinder to keep the cylinder from turning when in battery.

I am not trying to be demeaning, just truthful, but you can't fix it yourself as you are not familiar with revolver mechanics. Pay somebody who does to do the job.

Just the right amount of honesty. I know a good gunsmith about an hour away, although I'm not sure of his knowledge of revolvers.

[CJR]

Mega,

Do yourself a life-saving favor. Don't pick a smith because he is close to you. Pick the best smith for 29s you can find and get it done right.

Best regards,

CJR

[osteodoc08]

Mega,

Do yourself a life-saving favor. Don't pick a smith because he is close to you. Pick the best smith for 29s you can find and get it done right.

Best regards,

CJR

Sage advice. Call cylinder and slide or other reputable Smith smith.

[megasupermagnum]

Mega,

Do yourself a life-saving favor. Don't pick a smith because he is close to you. Pick the best smith for 29s you can find and get it done right.

Best regards,

CJR

I'll have to ask him about smith and wesson specifically, but he is very smart. I must not get out much, I don't consider an hour drive close. The guys just down the road from me are the ones to avoid. I must have called them a half dozen times with relatively easy jobs. Each time I was met with "Ahhhhhh...we can't."

[JMtoolman]

JMax, would you give a bit of an explanation on the removing of the material on the bolt. I also have this happen on my 629 and have had the fireing pin make dents on the cases outside of the primer diameter. This means the bolt isn't even in the notch when the hammer is released. How much material is removed, and is the bolt spring replaced with a heaver spring? Many thanks, the toolman.

[Harter66]

Super
I have a note pinned at eye level on the bench . It says " keep it simple stupid , clean it first !" . I can't begin to count the $1000 mechanical problems solved with a $5 wash .

My Dad had an old Colts sportsman aka 1917 . He got it out one trip and it would throw over and stop short taking 9 shots to shoot 6 rounds . I fussed with it some and finally just took the grips off and put it in a pan full of GI CLP overnight , cycling it 20-25 times in the morning still immersed delivered more crud in the pan than I would have thought possible to get stuck in on or around the gun . Fortunately it is built up and the side plate has been off many times before me . I pulled the plate and washed it out with my best can of WD40 and replaced the plate . I let soak on the plate side for the rest of the day and got more crud out of it and again washed more gunk out with the plate off . 2 more soak and cycles and it was pretty much as good as it was going to get . I noticed something out of place where the barrel extension meets the top strap so I got a pick and poked at I some . Turns out there's a gap between the top strap and the barrel threads on that pistol and actually a fairly large gap .
After knocking that gob of lead out of the frame I elected my first crane removal . More crud washed out and the amount washed out of the cylinder axle was just gross .

After the deep cleaning that was probably 30 yr over due , that pistol is celebrating it's centennial somewhere as I type this . Once clean with steel exposed that probably hadn't been exposed in 40 yr or more it shot like a new gun . When I got my Smith 1917 that was the first order of business and Ms September 1918 thanks me for it because she was harboring about a tablespoon of solids also .

As a second point after a liberal solvent bath with soak time , I'd check the bolt spring but not until after I shot it .......says the guy with half a dozen 1858 and 1860 trigger springs in the parts box .

Don't underestimate the ability of dust bunnies to become dirt rabbits and eat the works or at least fill them up with "smart pills" .

Always deep clean before you spend the money on parts or service because the service guy will be happy to bill you for cleaning .

[beemer]

Harter, you hit on something there. I pulled S & W out of the safe just this week, it's one that gets shot very little. The gun was almost locked up with gummy oil and will need a deep clean before it can be shot. I wish I could remember what I used to oil it but I guess any mineral oil will harden over time.

A good cleaning is first priority when a firearm malfunctions, not always the problem but rule out simple things first.

Dave

[CJR]

Mega,

You need to search for and read John Taffin's article, "21. A Half Century of the Model 29.htm" . It documents the Model 29 cylinder unlocking under recoil.

Best regards,

CJR