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Thread: New to muzzle loaders

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy TaylorS's Avatar
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    New to muzzle loaders

    So a friend picked up this percussion cap rifle somewhere wanted me to clean it up and find the stuff he needs to shoot it. Read some here and played with it but it seems the cap pin is plugged and I can’t remove it. Are these pressed in or threaded?

    It seems like a shock absorber socket would almost do the trick if it threads in. I can only get it to turn 1/8-1/4 of a turn before the wrench is in the way.

    Thanks for looking!

    If I posted in the wrong spot please move it


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  2. #2
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    Its threaded with common thread. just about everyone makes a nipple wrench for that.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Get a nipple wrench and apply heat for stuck nipple , take your time and once removed apply neverseize to threads to new nipple

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If it's that tight, I would use a very small wrench if you have one that size. Soak it first to loosen the threads. I like to remove mine like every other time I shoot it and apply something to the threads so it will be easy to remove the net time. If you don't have a small wrench some people like to cut a small socket to fit.

    It's also best to find someone that can show him how to properly load, not just give him the stuff and let him figure it out.
    Aim small, miss small!

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Get or make a nipple wrench. Use a good penetrant and wiggle it back and forth and I'd think it would come out. Take your time. Clean it and the channel with hot water and soap. Once clean, inspection for damage should be easier. It should be removed after every range session and cleaned. Replace it with, as noted above, some anti-seize, every time. Makes regular servicing a breeze.

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub
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    Taylor, I have a friend, old enough to know better, who has a hole in the side of his garage. He was using heat to remove a stuck nipple. This often works but be sure she in not loaded first. Jaeger

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Since you have the breech plug removed I'm all for soaking it. Use a 1:1 ratio of ATF and acetone mixture. Can pretty much guarantee it'll come free
    Domari Nolo

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaylorS View Post


    I can only get it to turn 1/8-1/4 of a turn before the wrench is in the way.

    Have you tried re-positioning the wrench every 1/8-1/4 turn of the nipple ? .



    If push comes to shove, the nipple would need to be drilled out with a bit that's smaller in diameter than the threads in the breechplug, then the remains of the nipple picked out of the breechplug threads.

    Replacement nipples are readily available both online & at most non-AR gunshops - just keep in mind that different frontstuffer brands will require nipples that have slightly different threads and/or length (Track of the Wolf has a brand-specific nipple fitment chart on their website).



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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 725 View Post
    Get or make a nipple wrench. Use a good penetrant and wiggle it back and forth and I'd think it would come out. Take your time. Clean it and the channel with hot water and soap. Once clean, inspection for damage should be easier. It should be removed after every range session and cleaned. Replace it with, as noted above, some anti-seize, every time. Makes regular servicing a breeze.
    I disagree with removing it every time. That causes thread wear, and failure. Myself and other gun builders I know recommend only removing once a year for examination. Put them back in with anti-seize on the threads. The only reason to remove one is if your accuracy goes away and the nipple needs replaced.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use mine for competition twice a month all summer long and remove the nipple and never- seize it every forth or fifth shoot. At the end of the shooting season I take it all down and soak and clean everything, lube the barrel with TC 1000, never-sieze the threads and put her up till mid winter when I check her out again just for good measure. If everything Ok put her to bed again till spring.

    Use a nipple wrench and buy a good one. No cheepy. Track of the Wolf has some good stuff.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    Most nipple wrenches are junk. Get a 5mm socket and cut the notch in it with a dremel (sp) tool I saw this hint somewhere here on Boolits I think but don't remember who posted it. I made one up and have had no more problems rounding over the edges. Gp

  12. #12
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    waksupi -- I certainly respect your stance in the matter and wouldn't council you otherwise. My experience is different. My personal ML's don't get massive use, but they do get shot hundreds of times a year. I clean after each range session and removing the nipple is part of my routine. I clean the dickens out of 'em, lube (rust preventative) 'em and put 'em back together. Further, I run a ML / heritage class at a local boy's & girl's camp all summer. It's neat. Have a roof covered shooting house so I run classes rain or shine. We shoot eight hundred to a thousand rounds every summer. Everyday, I completely strip the guns, clean and reassemble with anti-seize. As you can guess, these are not expensive guns. They are all CVA side-hammers. The only items I've ever had to address are broken ram rods, short starters, and front sights. Kids can be brutal. The nipples are hanging in there. No issues. As a matter of fact, I have only replaced one or two that I can remember. I've been at it for 15 or 16 years, there.
    Last edited by 725; 03-21-2018 at 06:26 PM.

  13. #13
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    a new cap gun of unknown build and/or builder needs to (if at all possible) have it's breech plug, bolster and nipple removed and anti-seize lubed just once. the breech plug and bolster should almost never come off again, but the nipple will because it's gonna get worn with hammer blows (unless it's tungsten carbide). the same is true for the breech plug and touch hole liner on a flintlock, lube and forget. not doing the anti-seize lube is just asking for trouble down the road. any automotive anti-seize will do, but the best by far for me is nikal brand. with a flintlock's lock and it's one or two mounting screws, they get nikal'd as well. i typically pull off a flint lock after a good day's shooting, soak in a special secret sauce mixture of dihydrogen-monoxide (geez, now the secret's out) and scrub clean, then relube and put back after the barrel's been cleaned and lubed.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Make a Nipple Wrench with a tee handle,mount the Assembly in a drill press,Apply pressure on the Key with the Drill spindle and turn.This will stop the Key riding over the Nipple Flats.This method is also ideal for Screws that have worn Slots.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy TaylorS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mooman76 View Post

    It's also best to find someone that can show him how to properly load, not just give him the stuff and let him figure it out.
    Even if I can get it in firing condition I’m not sure I’d want to shoot it other than to see it work but as far as finding someone who knows what there doing does anyone live north of Amarillo?


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  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy TaylorS's Avatar
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    New to muzzle loaders

    Oopsy
    Last edited by TaylorS; 03-22-2018 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Double post
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  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy TaylorS's Avatar
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    Ok got the nipple out and cleared one more question before I put this project to bed.

    Is this breech plug to badly worn to be used?


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  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    I would get a new one ASAP! /Ed

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy TaylorS's Avatar
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    Only problem with that is all we know about it is it’s a 45 cal percussion ML only markings on it are Japan and 45 cal black powder only so not even sure where to begin looking


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  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Check out Track of the Wolf. If you gave 'em a call they could probably steer you in the right direction. Can you get the diameter and thread pitch? They tend to be somewhat standardized and therefore replaceable.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check