I use CCI's for everything but .38 sp. I like shooting my .38's DA a lot and get too many light strikes so I use S&B's for this. The S&B primers work like Federals and are much cheaper and easier to find.
I use CCI's for everything but .38 sp. I like shooting my .38's DA a lot and get too many light strikes so I use S&B's for this. The S&B primers work like Federals and are much cheaper and easier to find.
CCI have been my first choice every since I started loading. Primers are very trouble free for the most part but I have had fewer issues with CCI than with other brands. You can't go wrong with CCI so buy with confidence.
I just saw Midway has the no hazmat, and free shipping...
The only concern I’ve ever had with CCI primers was with my finely tuned 38 Special PPC revolver... it needed the notably soft Federal SP primers to be dependable. Otherwise, whatever primers were at hand got loaded in my handguns for the last 40+ years. Now in my bench rest rifle, I did use Federal Match primers, but that’s another story.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
As far as primers go, I have had no troubles yet with CCI, along with Winchester, Federal, Remington, or S&B, in all sorts of calibers including shotgun.
G'Luck! with what ever ya decide upon to use for primers!
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The following is posted in just trying to help, since I don't think anyone mentioned anything about primers having different "brisance"/"strength" & how it can effect our reloads. I am posting for those who may not know about the possible effects that can be encountered when someone substitutes one primer manufacturers primer vs the ones used by the reloading manuals suggested loads. This can be particularly important when developing shotgun loads in regard to safety concerns. No need to read further if you are an experienced reloader, since ya likely already know what I post. Up to you from here....
Many folks likely already know, but in each manual for each specific caliber there is a, "suggested" components list, ( along with the type of firearm used & other "specific" data, etc.) that the folks who made the reloading manual listed load data used when testing the loads offered. It is best to try to match the "suggested" components when possible to match the suggested load data for each specific projectile used. Primers are in that list, so if they used CCI primers to get their data, then it is best to try to use the same primers as suggested. If they used Winchester, then it is best to use that primer when using that specific manual for load data.
Now, since most of us do not have the same components, caliber specific firearm barrel length, etc. that the reloading manual use, we have to substitute other components, as well as firearm specifics such as us using a 2" barrel vs their using a 4" one, or using a Federal case vs their using a Winchester case, etc, and the same for other specifics they used to get their data when we go to use that load data in our particular firearm. Therefore, to be safe, we try to use their load data with the substitute components & firearm as closely as possible. When we do not have any, or just some of the suggested components/firearm specifics, etc. to include primers, we have to test what we are going to use vs their use of other items.
So, to try to conclude my point here, If you are going to use a primer that is not the same as the "suggested load data in a reloading manual, no matter what primer you substitute, in order to stay safe when reloading, you should start at the "Suggested start load" & work your way up to find the load that works for your firearm and stays within the suggested load range "Start " to "Maximum" while looking for signs of problems such as sooty cases, stove piping due to light loads , and up to possible signs of overpressure like sticking cases, primer signs, etc. and it is very useful to have a chronograph to verify you are within the suggested velocity ranges that will also help ID if you are getting close to the velocities they produced at their Max. listed charges using "their" test components & platform so you do not exceed pressures & possibly create a dangerous condition. Knowing that if they used a shorter/longer barrel than you, that your bbl length can also be a factor to consider when using velocity as a guide for your own load development in your particular firearm.
So, please keep that in mind, as you decide what primers to use & know that each manufacturer of primers has different "brisance" levels & thus "pressure" produced ( Strength") by each primer & that can also have an effect on your load development.
As I mentioned, I know I am likely " preaching to the choir" as many who took the time to read what I posted prolly know what I mean, but there is also the possibility that some one does not know this info & I wanted to help to cover this info to try to help those who did not know. Your patience with this is appreciated, if ya have some... LOL
Be safe! & G'Luck!
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Last edited by JBinMN; 03-21-2018 at 09:47 AM. Reason: yeah. Long post. of course...
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CCI primers work great for me but I will use any I can get cheap .really doubt see any difference between brands.
I've never had a problem with CCI primer. I've used a lot of them.
My preference is Federal, CCI, and then Winchester. I 've had problems with Winchester. To hard and out of round.
But I buy what's available when I need them.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |