Reloading EverythingRepackboxInline FabricationLoad Data
MidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2Lee PrecisionTitan Reloading
Wideners
Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Lock nuts for Dillon dies OR something else?

  1. #1
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439

    Lock nuts for Dillon dies OR something else?

    I've got an assortment of dies on several Dillon 550 toolheads. Some have the 1" Dillon lock nuts. Some have knurled rings and set screws that come with RCBS or Redding dies. Some have the split rings like Hornady, etc.

    On some toolheads it just does not matter; the dies are locked down where I want them and I don't need to fool with them.
    However, on some other toolheads, I need to make adjustments frequently. (Usually to the seating die)

    My first thought was to lock two of the Dillon style nuts together at the deepest setting needed and make a set of spacers to accommodate the different shallower seating depths needed. The problem with that approach is some of the adjustments are rather large (the difference between a SWC and full WC) and some are very small (the difference between two types of SWC's). So that started to look like more work than it was worth.

    Then I started to think (always dangerous ) that it would be easier to just find a good style of lock rings that were easy to adjust and use a set of dummy cartridges to set the dies up as needed. The problem there is none of the rings really lend themselves to tool-less adjustment. They all require an Allen wrench or a regular spanner. So there's nothing to be gained there. It's the same amount of time to set the die(s) and powder measure; so I might as well just deal with it.

    My last approach was the most expensive but quickest. I could just set up another toolhead specifically for wadcutters with the power measure and all of the dies adjusted properly. This is attractive because I could also install a special powder funnel/expander for the WC bullets. However the expense is a bit daunting and my reloading volume is large but not large enough to justify that expense.

    Am I just chasing my tail or is there some trick out there that I'm missing?

  2. #2
    Moderator



    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Oregon Coast
    Posts
    10,248
    I've found the Hornady split rings to be the easiest to change adjustments with. They do require an Allen wrench, but I keep one with a handle (SnapOn) on the bench anyway, so it's just a matter of reaching for it and making the adjustment and retightening the screw.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  3. #3
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439
    That may be my best bet.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Oklahoma City
    Posts
    507
    When it comes to my Dillons, especially rifle seat dies I got micrometer style dies. Some Forster and some Redding. Love them so much!! Worth every penny to me.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Beautiful Idaho
    Posts
    2,644
    RD62 beat me to it. For the problem you describe the micrometer adjustable dies are the perfect solution, Love my Redding Comp. dies. Gp

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,457
    Instead of a complete second tool head. Buy a seater die and the ock ring where it needs and adjust then just change out the seating dies as needed.

  7. #7
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Instead of a complete second tool head. Buy a seater die and the ock ring where it needs and adjust then just change out the seating dies as needed.
    Actually that was on my mental list as an option. I just didn't write it down. $27.00 for a second seating die. Might be worth it.

    Another possibility would be a custom seating seam for the Dillon die. The insert comes out with just clip. That would be a fast switch without even the need to unscrew the die from the toolhead.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,457
    If the difference is enough you might be able to just frill the second hole in the stem and use the appropriate hole

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    772
    On my seating dies the adjustment is made using the stem rather than by moving the entire die up and down. I made up dummy cartridges for each boolit I load. All I have to do is put the dummy cartridge in the shell holder, raise the ram, and adjust the stem until it snugs down on the boolit. Do a final check on the first real round seated and tweak a little if necessary.
    Some times it's the pot,
    Some times it's the pan,
    It might even be the skillet,
    But, most of the time, it's the cook.

  10. #10
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    If the difference is enough you might be able to just frill the second hole in the stem and use the appropriate hole
    I gave that a little thought but I don't think there's enough room. (although you could gain a little room by off setting the second hole so that the stem needs to be rotated a little for the holes to line up). It would also be difficult to get the hole in exactly the right place.
    A variation would be to make a Dillon style stem that was adjustable. It would take some trial and error to get the length exact but once it was a found a set screw recessed on the side of the stem could be locked down. At that point the entire stem would just be swapped out as needed (a fast process with the two piece Dillon die).

    OR make a second stem that is slightly longer and mill the end down incrementally until the exact length is obtained.

  11. #11
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439
    Lots of good ideas, thanks!

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Houston Missouri
    Posts
    192
    I finally broke down and changed every lock Nut on my 550 tool heads to the 1" size, that are easier to work with.
    As was said above make up some dummy rounds for quick die adjustment.

    Bob R

  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    wilds of Montana
    Posts
    39
    Another vote for the micrometer seater dies. Hornady also builds a mic seater stem iirc.

  14. #14
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    94
    Hornady split rings are nice, but I wouldn't want them on a tool head or turret as they take a bit of room and you only have two flats for a wrench should you need one.

  15. #15
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    39
    I use both methods on my Dillon, 1” rings so i can use the handy wrench on the back, and separate tool heads because i got tired of crushing my first magnum case after I switch


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check