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Thread: Wattage for Lube/Sizer Heater??

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Central Virginia
    Quote Originally Posted by rcslotcar View Post
    I have used a travel iron a steel plate for many years. I set it on high to get everything up to temp, then bring it down to keep it warm. The steel plate was free and the iron a couple of bucks at the second hand store. My PID was the iron temp setting.
    /\ and that "Human interface PID" works amazingly well !

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Quote Originally Posted by georgerkahn View Post
    In my experience, the key is patience. Huh? If a high wattage element is employed, albeit the lube melts quickly, there too often is a mess. On the obverse, low wattage element takes "forever" -- but NO mess! I have mine plugged into a Variac, and even in my cold basement, 20 watts is more than adequate at 100% initially, but gets turned down to about 20 to 25% after a bit. Good luck. geo
    You couldn't be more wrong when it comes to the large wattage element. There is absolute control thru the usage of the PID control. There is in my case a 3/4" thick aluminum plate 12"x 12". Again, there is no mess. The aluminum absorbs the heat evenly and the whole plate is a constant temperature. There is no hot spots at all and no mess. I run 100 degrees on most harder lubes less on softer lubes and more on real hard lubes. Sir, please comment on something you have actual experience on instead of your theory of what you invision that might happen with very poor or no control.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check