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Thread: Ballisti Cast Mk II leaking valves

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    7

    Ballisti Cast Mk II leaking valves

    Bought a new Ballisti Cast Mark II and have only used it three times. The valves constantly leak and I'm stuggling to have a successful casting session. Only used virgin (clean) 92-6-2 lead in the machine so it is very clean. When I first used the machine it leaked from the first day. Once running the leak would subside a little and it was possible to cast good bullets. Then at no particular interval it would begin leaking quite badly and cover rotating moulds. Asking the manufacturer I was told to rotate the valves in the orifices with an allen head tool to a different position in the orifices but this rarely rectified the problem.
    The leak begins as soon as the lead melts to approximately 550 degrees F or when it virtually liquefies. On occasion one valve will leak, then both then sometimes the other one only. Very frustrating. The machine works well otherwise although I'm new to casting and need to get some experience time up with lead temps, mould temps and pour durations. This is proving elusive while the leaking valve issue persists.

    Sam

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Hickory's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    The Great Black Swamp of Northwest Ohio
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    4,434
    You may have to lap them in with valve grinding compound.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

    I am a sovereign individual, accountable
    only to God and my own conscience.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    497
    Adjust the spring tension on top of the rods lifting when pouring lead. I have a Mark-X and had the same problem. When fiddling with this for some hours I finally got rid of the dripping. With the right amount of downward spring tension on the valve rods it should not drip if you don't have any debris trapped under the lifting rods. But if you get it right, don't touch it! I found the adjustments difficult to get right. I used the trial and error way..... and it took some time.

    To be on the safe side I always stick a piece of sheet metal under the pot when I'm finished casting. My machine alwas drips a bit when cooling down or during heating but this way it doesn't matter and it works great when running. My Bullet Master is the same way.

    Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    7
    Thank you. I will try what you suggest.

    Sam

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    S.E. OKLA.
    Posts
    453
    Hey Sam got any ideal what year your MKII is?? Mine only has 1 flow rod,,i'v seen several on video's and they all have 2 flow rod's . I drained my pot after I got it working and steel wool'd (0000) the rod and the ports . Then pulled the head underneath off and cleaned it the same way,,THEN poured water in the flow side redid it until it would hold water . Mine doesn't leak until I get trash down in the port ,,then I just pull the bottom head ( cause that's where it hangs up ) clean,,good to go. What hunter74 said spring tension ??? PM me if I can help .

    coffee's ready,,,,Hootmix

  6. #6
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    7
    My machine is only 12 months old for me. They had several in stock sitting there when I bought it so I can only assume it was built in the last few years. It has 2 valves. Would be good to see any photos you may have taken of the "head underneath" as well as rod and port. The spring tension relates to each rod which has a spring loaded mechanism to assist in returning the valves to closed I assume. What is upsetting to me is that I had the severe leak from day one as soon as I first melted the first load of lead. They ran it as their factory before shipping so maybe some of their originally used lead was full of impurities. I have no idea. Will let you know if I need further help.
    I probably will not touch the machine for the next 5 weeks as I'm going overseas.

    Sam

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check