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Thread: JP Sauer Drilling trigger removal

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Cheshire Dave's Avatar
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    JP Sauer Drilling trigger removal

    A little background. I just bought a " shooter" grade JP Sauer drilling from Gunbroker. Got a good price because it had really bad pictures and lots of surface rust. The stock was also dull and oxidized. A few hours with 0000 steel wool and WD40 and most of the rust was gone. I also rubbed out the stock finish with the same steel wool minus the WD40 and put a few coats of oil on it. The 16 gauge barrels cleaned up well by running a worn out 12 gauge brush with a drill. The 8x57 JR .318 grove and .308 bore barrel came clean with no rust or pits. I also checked the shotgun chambers and they are 70mm. I guess some time in it's 85 year history someone had them lengthened. So much for the good news. The crown of the riffle barrel has a slight ding where dropped. They are very thin. I plan to lap it with a brass round head screw.
    The reason I am posting here is because the set trigger won't set. I think either it's all gummed up from setting in a closet for years or it could be broken. I tried to find disassembly instructions on the internet but the best I found with Midway's You Tube video on taking apart a british boxlock. It showed the triggers on a separate plate where mine just has one plate.
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    Has anyone worked on one of these? I did manage to break the large screw loose after grinding a screwdriver to fit and soaking with Liquid Wrench for a few days. I guess I'm just worried it's going to spit parts everywhere when I pop that plate loose. I'm hoping that the triggers are left attached to the plate. Then I can clean with gun scrubber or soak in kerosene for awhile and blow off and oil. I also was thinking while trying to break that screw loose that the small trigger adjustment screw may have been messed with and turned to the point where the set trigger won't engage? Any help would be appreciated.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Before you take anything apart,,back out that small screw on the trigger.
    That is the adjustment for the set trigger engagement,,how heavy or light the pull will be when set.
    In the position it's in now being screwed all the way 'in',,,the set trigger mechanism cannot 'set'. The adjustment is simply not allowing the
    internal sear to engage with the trigger when the trigger is pushed forward.

    BAcking the screw out allows the sear to engage the trigger and 'set'.
    The trigger pull in the set mode will be heaviest with the screw farther backed out.
    With the screw backed out and if everything else inside is OK,,you should be able to 'set' the trigger by pushing it forward and feeling & hearing it click as the internal sear engages the trigger.
    Then a light touch/pull to the trigger releases the trigger and it snaps back and trips the internal sear and disengages the hammer.

    To adjust, set the trigger with the screw backed out. Then carefully turn the screw in slowly till the trigger 'fires' itself. Then back the screw out a turn or so. That will leave the trigger mechanism in a mode where you will have a set position that works and will be a very light pull as well,,more of a touch to release it. If you want to adjust more, finely tune by turning the screw in or out, But don't make the set pull too awfull light or you can have accidental discharge from mear handling the gun while the trigger is set.

    If the trigger is still balky after this,,then a disassembly is in order.

    The set trigger parts are all attached to the bottom trigger plate.
    Taking that trigger plate off is a matter of removing the trigger guard, then the tang screw(s) underneath it. Any upper tang screw, trigger plate screw(s). That will generally allow the trigger plate to drop down and out of the gun but they are tightly fitted and need care in removing. Reckless handling can result in wood being pulled out with the metal parts.
    Many times after the trigger plate is off, the hammer sears themselves need to be removed before the action can be pulled completely off the wood.

    SxS's and Drillings are not usually a beginner projects and I don't mean that as a slap. I don't know your expertise or experience with them so just a word of caution. The set triggers along with single and single selective triggers and ejector mechanisms are another mechanical puzzle. Go slowly if you procede and never force anything. They went together,,they will come apart and go back together again

  3. #3
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2152hq View Post
    Before you take anything apart,,back out that small screw on the trigger.
    That is the adjustment for the set trigger engagement,,how heavy or light the pull will be when set.
    In the position it's in now being screwed all the way 'in',,,the set trigger mechanism cannot 'set'. The adjustment is simply not allowing the
    internal sear to engage with the trigger when the trigger is pushed forward.

    BAcking the screw out allows the sear to engage the trigger and 'set'.
    The trigger pull in the set mode will be heaviest with the screw farther backed out.
    With the screw backed out and if everything else inside is OK,,you should be able to 'set' the trigger by pushing it forward and feeling & hearing it click as the internal sear engages the trigger.
    Then a light touch/pull to the trigger releases the trigger and it snaps back and trips the internal sear and disengages the hammer.

    To adjust, set the trigger with the screw backed out. Then carefully turn the screw in slowly till the trigger 'fires' itself. Then back the screw out a turn or so. That will leave the trigger mechanism in a mode where you will have a set position that works and will be a very light pull as well,,more of a touch to release it. If you want to adjust more, finely tune by turning the screw in or out, But don't make the set pull too awfull light or you can have accidental discharge from mear handling the gun while the trigger is set.

    If the trigger is still balky after this,,then a disassembly is in order.

    The set trigger parts are all attached to the bottom trigger plate.
    Taking that trigger plate off is a matter of removing the trigger guard, then the tang screw(s) underneath it. Any upper tang screw, trigger plate screw(s). That will generally allow the trigger plate to drop down and out of the gun but they are tightly fitted and need care in removing. Reckless handling can result in wood being pulled out with the metal parts.
    Many times after the trigger plate is off, the hammer sears themselves need to be removed before the action can be pulled completely off the wood.

    SxS's and Drillings are not usually a beginner projects and I don't mean that as a slap. I don't know your expertise or experience with them so just a word of caution. The set triggers along with single and single selective triggers and ejector mechanisms are another mechanical puzzle. Go slowly if you procede and never force anything. They went together,,they will come apart and go back together again


    That, right there, is the straight of it - thanks, 2152hq !


    .
    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy Cheshire Dave's Avatar
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    I definitely don't take insult in the warning. The main reason I posted this as I was afraid to take it apart and run myself into trouble. I will definitely try adjusting that screw first that was my plan I was just hoping to get some advice. It would be nice to clean and lubricate it though but that may wait for another day. Thank you very much for the help I will try that today.

    Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have rebuilt German 5 lever trigger for a friend but I wouldn't know what was wrong with yours without looking. The trigger would come out as a whole assembly and you might get by by soaking them out of the gun with PB Blaster.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Cheshire Dave's Avatar
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    Yes that was my plan I only want to try and clean and lubricate them not disassemble the triggers themselves that would be way above my paygrade. I've done three or four Marlin triggers and I think I got that figured out but even there I like to look at the disassembly instructions before I get started. I've been a machinist for a lot of years but I run large production equipment doesn't really relate to gunsmith in that much hopefully it will be a hobby for my retirement. Thank you very much for the help and I will try and adjust the trigger if that doesn't work I may get Brave and try and pop the trigger plate out and clean and lubricate the parts. If that doesn't work I will very carefully put it back together and find somebody with more knowledge than me.

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  7. #7
    Boolit Master Cap'n Morgan's Avatar
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    You need to remove three screws to remove the trigger plate, the large one at the bottom, another under the top-lever and finally the last one hidden under the trigger guard which must be removed first. The fit of the trigger plate is often very tight, and it's sometimes necessary to use a pin punch to lightly tap it loose through the hole for the screw under the top lever. Be careful not to damage the stock when removing the plate and be just as careful when putting it back. Especially, make sure the trigger lock lever has engaged correctly in the safety slot. First assemble the lock and trigger plate without the stock and you'll see what I mean.
    Cap'n Morgan

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Cheshire Dave's Avatar
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    With a huge amount of native Talent and the skill of an old-world Craftsmen I turn the screw out three turns and it works just fine. It was very light so I backed out a couple more turns and it's still very light but it doesn't seem to be getting any lighter. So I think I will leave it there. Thanks for all the help I guess I got fixated on trying to get the triggers out to clean them I'm going to leave well enough alone.

    Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    That's definitely a plan.......

    Please let us know how it shoots.

    .
    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy Cheshire Dave's Avatar
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    I hope to use this as a poor man's double rifle. I haven't got any rifle ammo yet but I bought a few Remington slugs and they hit to the sights at 30 yards. So a slug in the left Barrel and the front trigger for the rifle I will have two quick shots. Here in Western Oregon on my property the shots are usually 50 yards or less. Waiting to get a good mold probably from accurate bullet molds.

    Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check