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Thread: My glue is not drying.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    now, i think they, the powers to be call what we are doing is called a THINK TANK??? fancy title for good old SWAMP YANKEE common sense, you gotta love it!!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 15meter View Post
    Never used more than a 1/4 sheet of toilet paper tamped down on top of the filler. Fire the cases while the rifle is vertical. Always got lopsided cases when fired with the rifle level.
    This, exactly!!!
    “Now and then we had a hope that if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates.”

    ― Mark Twain

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    make some shot cards or a wad like they use for blank loads i would never use glue or hot glue
    Interesting that you state never to use hot glue ... I have reloaded many boxes of 16 & 12ga black powder brass hulls with over shot cards and a ring of hot glue with no issues cleaning the barrels
    Regards
    John

  4. #24
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOA View Post
    Well it all came out ok. I decided I was not going to wait and wait and wait. Grabbed the cleaning rod and headed out to get them shot dry or wet, all shot just fine, nothing was left in barrel. Shot at a old laminate table top leaned up against a pole from twenty feet away, checked bore visually every five or six rounds for first two boxes, no change in appearance so proceeded to shoot all one hundred without issues. Bore cleaned as usual Hoppe's, brush, rag, oil rag. Now its all ready for today's second form firing, no glue this time just powder and a OO buckshot pressed into the case mouth. Boolits are next on the schedule for testing, have two hundred Lee Karabiner's all ready to load up.
    I'm glad that all worked out for you.
    You don't mention exactly what Cases you are fire forming, maybe it is in another thread that I haven't read.
    Anyway, why don't you just load boolits?
    That's what I do when fire-forming 257rob brass into 257Rx6.5

  5. #25
    Boolit Master MOA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    I'm glad that all worked out for you.
    You don't mention exactly what Cases you are fire forming, maybe it is in another thread that I haven't read.
    Anyway, why don't you just load boolits?
    That's what I do when fire-forming 257rob brass into 257Rx6.5
    John, I was fire forming cases for a new 1867 Swedish sporting rolling block which is chambered in a now obsolete cartridge of 8x58Rd. I'm using the 8mm Hungarian case which is 2mm shorter than the original case. Part of the reason for not using boolits yet is due to wanting to make sure chamber is large enough to release boolit upon firing, I have discovered that the chamber is very generous to the extent that a fire formed case mouth is large enough to just drop a unsized boolit into with room left over to spare. Just got a Lee collet neck sizer and have sent a dummy sample of case with boolit to Lee and they are making a custom FCD up for it so in the future I will only neck and light crimp. I don't need crimp to shoot paper, but will not take hunting unless boolit is crimped in place. Here is the cartridge, I'm waiting for the factory crimp die to arrive to crimp and then shoot some paper.


  6. #26
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


    waksupi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOA View Post
    John, I was fire forming cases for a new 1867 Swedish sporting rolling block which is chambered in a now obsolete cartridge of 8x58Rd. I'm using the 8mm Hungarian case which is 2mm shorter than the original case. Part of the reason for not using boolits yet is due to wanting to make sure chamber is large enough to release boolit upon firing, I have discovered that the chamber is very generous to the extent that a fire formed case mouth is large enough to just drop a unsized boolit into with room left over to spare. Just got a Lee collet neck sizer and have sent a dummy sample of case with boolit to Lee and they are making a custom FCD up for it so in the future I will only neck and light crimp. I don't need crimp to shoot paper, but will not take hunting unless boolit is crimped in place. Here is the cartridge, I'm waiting for the factory crimp die to arrive to crimp and then shoot some paper.

    If your bullets are sliding into a fired case that easily, you will most likely need a larger diameter bullet for good accuracy. You want a bit of resistance inserting a bullet into a fired unsized case. That will give you a good throat fit. As is, the bullet is going to kinda rattle around in the bore until it decides to squirt out the end. It sounds like you are going to be paper patching, so this problem is solved.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  7. #27
    Boolit Master MOA's Avatar
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    Waksupi, I will first try to beagle the mold and play with the alloy before I have to start thinking about zig zagging the boolits. Not that I'm opposed to wrapping them, it would certainly be in keeping with the period.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check