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Thread: my version of dry tumble powder coating

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    my version of dry tumble powder coating

    I just wanted to offer the following for your consideration and input:

    I used to PC my boolits by putting them into a round Tupperware container (with the #5 recycling stamp on it) along with the powder and then swirling and shaking for about a minute. It worked, but especially after a number of batches using the same container, the PC would start looking very thin and splotchy. It took me a long time to realize that this was caused by the fact that the boolits were abrading the inside of the Tupperware so that little plastic shavings were adhering to the boolits along with the PC.

    Lately I have been putting the boolits and powder inside a gallon Ziploc bag first, squeezing out most of the air, and then putting that inside the Tupperware container and swirling and shaking. I have also been adding another gallon Ziploc containing about 20 Styrofoam peanuts. This seems to help generate static electricity, but I haven't done any strict side-by-side comparison. Anyway, now I'm getting the best coverage I've ever had, with no more thin or splotchy appearance, and they shoot much cleaner as well. With the old method, I would end up with some residue on the inside of the barrel. It wasn't lead, and it would scrub out pretty easily, but it was kind of annoying. I now realize that it was probably residue from the plastic bits that rubbed off the Tupperware.

    The only downside to this new method is that the boolits tear up the Ziploc bag after about two batches. If I could find some sort of material that could withstand getting battered by the boolits, that would be ideal, but for now I'm satisfied to use the Ziploc bags.

    So, there it is. Maybe I've just reinvented the wheel, or maybe this will help someone. If you see any way I could improve on this method, please let me know!

    John

  2. #2
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    You may be onto something
    I have always considered the containers expendable
    They seem to last well enought, but it makes sense that container plastic is shearing off. I have not even considered what you are saying
    But it is worth consideration
    My results are acceptable, but always open to best practices

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    I haven't noticed that either...but I use the airsoft BB's, maybe that has something to do with it all...I never shake over 15 seconds & so long as I keep fresh PC in the tub I don't have any splotches, I use one heaping table spoon full, that's all...but I only use good PC to start.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master


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    ASBBs do a good job for me.

    I found that when the thin coats started it just meant I needed to add more PC powder

    15-20 sec, shake hard and done
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  5. #5
    Boolit Man
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    Maybe try vacuum sealing them in a vacuum bag. The bags are super durable and can be found in different thickness bags too. They should hold up alot better than normal zip lock bags.

  6. #6
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    Try a Tyvek envelope

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
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    I happened to have a Blue Bunny ice cream container on hand that had the #5 stamp on the bottom. I used it yesterday to coat about 3,000 bullets of various calibers and it worked great. At first I was getting a little dust from the powder but afterwards I made sure the top snapped on tight. The coating was even and baked on fine. I didn't use any air soft beads or anything else with the powder. The container held up and is still usable. I only shook for about 10-12 seconds. Maybe I was just lucky because this was my first time powder coating.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master rsrocket1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjkonopka View Post
    Maybe try vacuum sealing them in a vacuum bag. The bags are super durable and can be found in different thickness bags too. They should hold up alot better than normal zip lock bags.
    You could experiment with that but the whole idea of generating static electricity between the powder and the lead comes from making and breaking contact. If the powder cannot move, it's not going to make and break contact, it just sits in place. Sort of like putting on a piece of polyester clothing and not moving versus pulling it on or off which generates a ton of static electricity.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsrocket1 View Post
    You could experiment with that but the whole idea of generating static electricity between the powder and the lead comes from making and breaking contact. If the powder cannot move, it's not going to make and break contact, it just sits in place. Sort of like putting on a piece of polyester clothing and not moving versus pulling it on or off which generates a ton of static electricity.
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  10. #10
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    Tried using an empty Tite Group 1 lb. powder cannister. Didn't even have the proper #5 in the triangle on the bottom. It has a # 2 I believe. Put in some ASBBs a gaggle of 9mm boolits and some of Smoke's clear, screwed the lid on the and swirled them around for a bit and then did the up-and-down motion, lid to bottom of the cannister motion. Allowed the powder to settle for a few seconds so as not to breathe that stuff, unscrewed the lid and the boolits were coated perfectly. Do not believe the correct disposal # container in the triangle is absolutely necessary. Then I looked around and found an empty 2 lb. powder container and started using that. No problems so far. End results after baking at 400 degrees for 20 minutes was perfect. Big Boomer
    Last edited by Big Boomer; 08-24-2018 at 08:13 AM. Reason: addition

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Toymaker's Avatar
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    Curious - - I've been told and hear repeatedly that the base of the bullet is very important for accuracy. It should be clean and sharp. Indeed, I've had bullets with slightly rounded bottom edges that I used in practice and accuracy was lacking.

    So with all this swirling and shaking, which I guess bangs the bullets against each other, what happens to the bottom edges?

  12. #12
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Maybe try a USPS or Fed-X shipping bag. I know I have a tough time opening those without a knife. They would probably hold up rather well. Maybe even try one of the insulated (bubble wrap) type bags.

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  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toymaker View Post
    Curious - - I've been told and hear repeatedly that the base of the bullet is very important for accuracy. It should be clean and sharp. Indeed, I've had bullets with slightly rounded bottom edges that I used in practice and accuracy was lacking.

    So with all this swirling and shaking, which I guess bangs the bullets against each other, what happens to the bottom edges?
    I think that is another benefit of ASBB, it sort of cushions the bullets as you are shaking them. For handgun to 40y or so, I do not see any accuracy drop off but my bullets are reasonably hard range scrap.
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  14. #14
    Boolit Mold
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    I would be careful about using an old powder canister to PC. Unless it was extremely well cleaned out it could still have some anti-static coatings present from the old powder. On the other hand, Elvis Ammo used one successfully in one of his videos, so maybe I'm concerned over nothing. Or maybe he ran it through his dishwasher first.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check