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Thread: Anet A8 printer - Making it print the Bullet collator

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    Everything is looking good now printed off a couple small parts this morning and starting the case feed side of the hanger now.

    How does the spring attach to the part that screws to the bottom of the base plate?
    I printed the large spring housing and sanded the hole down until I could “screw in” the spring. Or you can try to make a cone of the first few rings.
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  2. #42
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    I'm still considering a printer, but as you are working on a bigger fancier collator, i may need a bigger printer

    Awesome job guys.

  3. #43
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    I'm waiting to see how big this new one is going to be.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazza View Post
    I'm still considering a printer, but as you are working on a bigger fancier collator, i may need a bigger printer

    Awesome job guys.
    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    I'm waiting to see how big this new one is going to be.
    I changed the openSCAD script so it's variable in base plate diameter, wall height and wall thickness. There is just a problem with the flipper at a certain size an wall thickness. Maybe I should switch to a rubber version. Any suggestions?

    Is there a need for this? as jmooris mentioned correctly in my eyes, the "small" one can hold 400 9mm bullets.. so?!
    Last edited by AmmoMike83; 03-19-2018 at 09:32 AM.
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  5. #45
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    Attachment 216696
    200 mm in diameter and 120 mm wall height.

    I am really uncertain to go this step further :/
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  6. #46
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Printing the other stuff I ran into another snag and wasn’t thinking, just runnng through them.

    The printer doesn’t seem to want to print on air. Surprisingly it did make it on the round portion of the mount but there was no way it could do the rectangle that forms the hook portion of the mount.

    How does one orient the part so it’s printable?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails A0EB3826-5335-4D08-855C-89C6610821DA.jpg   EDF2EEE5-2549-431D-B1DD-0D8824D01BF9.jpg  

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    Printing the other stuff I ran into another snag and wasn’t thinking, just runnng through them.

    The printer doesn’t seem to want to print on air. Surprisingly it did make it on the round portion of the mount but there was no way it could do the rectangle that forms the hook portion of the mount.

    How does one orient the part so it’s printable?
    Use support structure, or print it like in your second picture. Printing in mid air is not possible
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  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    Printing the other stuff I ran into another snag and wasn’t thinking, just runnng through them.

    The printer doesn’t seem to want to print on air. Surprisingly it did make it on the round portion of the mount but there was no way it could do the rectangle that forms the hook portion of the mount.

    How does one orient the part so it’s printable?
    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    Printing the other stuff I ran into another snag and wasn’t thinking, just runnng through them.

    The printer doesn’t seem to want to print on air. Surprisingly it did make it on the round portion of the mount but there was no way it could do the rectangle that forms the hook portion of the mount.

    How does one orient the part so it’s printable?
    Cura marks the surfaces, that will need support during print in RED.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    lay it flat (90° rotation on Y-axis) and activate support. you can drill that out later.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    that way.. hope this helps.
    Mike
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  10. #50
    Boolit Bub J. DIEGO's Avatar
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    anmoMike83
    the biggest problem I found so when making the wall that will keep the bullets
    in my opinion it could be made thicker, because the one that is now me is taking off even with 0.2 layers, abs material.
    I unfortunately do not understand this to create a thicker wall on the outside.
    regards
    Diego

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. DIEGO View Post
    anmoMike83
    the biggest problem I found so when making the wall that will keep the bullets
    in my opinion it could be made thicker, because the one that is now me is taking off even with 0.2 layers, abs material.
    I unfortunately do not understand this to create a thicker wall on the outside.
    regards
    Diego
    Hi Diego,

    if the wall comes apart it's a printing issue. See here to get rid of that issue: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-print...rs-are-missing

    you can't change the wall thickness, because the base plate isn't public.

    Mike
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  12. #52
    Boolit Bub J. DIEGO's Avatar
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    Ok thank you, I'll read everything that escapes me for 3d printing
    I've only been with the printer for a month!

  13. #53
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    I found the support box and checked it, how do I rotate it 90 deg?

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    I found the support box and checked it, how do I rotate it 90 deg?
    There is a rotate button on the left black bar. Click the object, then click rotate, then select the green axis and rotate it by 90 degrees.
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  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    I found the support box and checked it, how do I rotate it 90 deg?
    I changed the orientation of the parts and uploaded them to thingiverse.
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  16. #56
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    I agree with Jmorris, for most people, 20o x 9mm would be enough, it doesn't take much effort to grab another hand full to top up the collator.

    The only reason my ears pricked up over the larger unit was the fact i do fairly large resizing batches, but when i think about it, i need to be there when it runs just in case there is a jamb with the sizer, so putting more into the smaller collator isn't a big deal.

  17. #57
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    I sprung for a tevo Tarantula and just got it printing, similar except for the use of aluminum rails, still acrylic supports that most replace. If you gave the $ get a tornado supposed to be a much better, but what's half the fun.?making it work for cheap.

    Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

  18. #58
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    I changed the orientation of the parts and uploaded them to thingiverse.
    Thank you!

    It seems like the feature is locked on my free download of cura, or quite possibly I don’t know what I am doing, the icon is there but does not seem active.

    No problem though because I down loaded the laid down version you uploaded and just started it off.

    I’ll see what we have around lunch tomorrow. The MBF motor came in today and it’s not the same as the Dayton motors but obviously a copy. 10-32 nuts work on the studs but there is not enough room in the counter bore for a socket, I’ll see if I have something that will work or just make the counter bore a bit larger.

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    Thank you!

    It seems like the feature is locked on my free download of cura, or quite possibly I don’t know what I am doing, the icon is there but does not seem active.

    No problem though because I down loaded the laid down version you uploaded and just started it off.

    I’ll see what we have around lunch tomorrow. The MBF motor came in today and it’s not the same as the Dayton motors but obviously a copy. 10-32 nuts work on the studs but there is not enough room in the counter bore for a socket, I’ll see if I have something that will work or just make the counter bore a bit larger.
    My pleasure, Joe!

    What do you mean by "counter bore"?

    To your question concerning the spring housing. I added 6 different types of spring housing with an ID from 10 to 15 mm. Hope that helps.
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  20. #60
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    The spring housing I printed with the perfect ID to run a 1/2-13 tap into and thread the extra MBF spring I have into. FWIW that’s the same thread that’s in the factory MBF parts.

    A counterbore is the larger diameter above the through hole. Looks like the ones for mounting are for socket head cap screws the ones in the base allow the nut to fit in there but won’t allow a socket to tighten them.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 7187ABC9-BCCE-4FAC-8F5C-5E2AAEE4AB5E.jpg  

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