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Thread: Anet A8 printer - Making it print the Bullet collator

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    Why!? Recommended bed temp for PLA is 65-70 °C.
    Because when I asked what settings needed to be changed in cura other than infill, this is what I was told.

    Layer Height 0.15 or 0.10
    Infill Density 80% or 100%
    Wall Count: 4 or 6
    Generate support: off
    build plate adhesion type: brim
    brim width: 6 mm or 8 mm

    cooling: enabled
    retraction: enabled
    Not knowing what I am doing didn’t want to change things that were not suggested by the designer at first.


    You have to assume that you are talking to a fellow that knows about as much about 3D printing as he can glean from the cardboard box, because that is who you are talking to.

    Trying another one with

    v2 base plate mrbullet feeder

    layer height .15
    Shell thickness .8 for Wall and bottom/top
    Infill 80%
    Printing temp 200
    Plate temp 70
    Diameter 1.75
    Flow 100
    Speed print 50
    Travel 120
    Cooling enabled
    No support
    Adhesion brim, 12mm

    Using cura
    Shaxon PLA
    Glass bed
    Aqua net extra super hold unscented
    .0035” gap
    Last edited by jmorris; 03-15-2018 at 09:32 AM.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    Because when I asked what settings needed to be changed in cura other than infill, this is what I was told.



    Not knowing what I am doing didn’t want to change things that were not suggested by the designer at first.
    Oh. I am sorry. There are hundreds of parameters you can change Please take a look at that site I posted. That should clarify most doubts and issues. Sorry again.
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    Because when I asked what settings needed to be changed in cura other than infill, this is what I was told.



    Not knowing what I am doing didn’t want to change things that were not suggested by the designer at first.
    Every different type of PLA should have a recommended temperature range on the package. You should be sure you're within that range.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark2215 View Post
    Every different type of PLA should have a recommended temperature range on the package. You should be sure you're within that range.
    Filament/Printhead Temp ... true
    Printbed Temp ... no
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  5. #25
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    other interesting video to this topic:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmEa...st=WL&index=33
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  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Oh. I am sorry. There are hundreds of parameters you can change
    Not a problem at all, I understand, it’s not like I can autocad something, run it through mastercam and hit the start button on my CNC mill either, lots of other details involved.

    That said this thing is fairly “plug and play”, you just don’t know what you don’t know, until you realize you don’t know something you need to know.

    The print temperature range on the filament i am current using is 180-230. I don’t know if it’s the 10deg bump in print temp or the 25 bump in bed temp but this one is looking a lot better, at least to the untrained eye.

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    I would like to thank everyone for guiding me, Mark with the nugget that made it work for me, providing parts and the direction to head in Hatch, and Ammomike83 for the development and program (I know how much work that is even if it’s not easy to see) files that got me out of my comfort zone and into learning something new, I really appreciate it.

    It is a night and day difference when you do something new and have folks that have “been there, done that” helping.

    Looks like the collator body print is a winner this time, didn’t even knock the brim off yet.



    FWIW the pattern is the 2L00”X” pattern. I have a case of the Dayton 2L009 motors and they fit perfect. I did order the much cheaper MBF motor to see if it holds up as well, I suspect it is the same.

    Would have been cool to have one of these 30 years ago. Even neater if I could live long enough to see one working in ER70S as a CNC TIG, that’s what I envisioned a couple decades ago when the 3D wax machines came out.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 28688E69-32C9-488C-8C59-5607DB372A4A.jpg  
    Last edited by jmorris; 03-17-2018 at 12:54 AM.

  8. #28
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    Thats one nice looking collator there jmorris. I wish mine looked half that good. Wait, I bought mine and I should have just bought the 3D printer.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    I would like to thank everyone for guiding me, Mark with the nugget that made it work for me, providing parts and the direction to head in Hatch, and Ammomike83 for the development and program (I know how much work that is even if it’s not easy to see) files that got me out of my comfort zone and into learning something new, I really appreciate it.

    It is a night and day difference when you do something new and have folks that have “been there, done that” helping.

    Looks like the collator body print is a winner this time, didn’t even knock the brim off yet.



    FWIW the pattern is the 2L00”X” pattern. I have a case of the Dayton 2L009 motors and they fit perfect. I did order the much cheaper MBF motor to see if it holds up as well, I suspect it is the same.

    Would have been cool to have one of these 30 years ago. Even neater if I could live long enough to see one working in ER70S as a CNC TIG, that’s what I envisioned a couple decades ago when the 3D wax machines came out.
    Great looking print!!!!!!!! I am proud of you!!!!!!!
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  10. #30
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    Looking at the collator...mine that I purchased from Tony is an older design in which the bullet drop is into the side of the ramp. Oh, how I wish I had waited.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    Looking at the collator...mine that I purchased from Tony is an older design in which the bullet drop is into the side of the ramp. Oh, how I wish I had waited.
    That was an own interpretation by tony. Did not make any sense, because the bullet never goes beyond the inner ring. Had the same wrong thought in the beginning, but it should work the same as the new one.
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  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    I would like to thank everyone for guiding me, Mark with the nugget that made it work for me, providing parts and the direction to head in Hatch, and Ammomike83 for the development and program (I know how much work that is even if it’s not easy to see) files that got me out of my comfort zone and into learning something new, I really appreciate it.

    It is a night and day difference when you do something new and have folks that have “been there, done that” helping.

    Looks like the collator body print is a winner this time, didn’t even knock the brim off yet.



    FWIW the pattern is the 2L00”X” pattern. I have a case of the Dayton 2L009 motors and they fit perfect. I did order the much cheaper MBF motor to see if it holds up as well, I suspect it is the same.

    Would have been cool to have one of these 30 years ago. Even neater if I could live long enough to see one working in ER70S as a CNC TIG, that’s what I envisioned a couple decades ago when the 3D wax machines came out.
    Great job, looks nice. What was the setting that made the difference? Now you'll have a couple hours swearing at it getting it to run right, especially if you're going nose down. I enjoy tinkering with things so the whole process has been fun for me. In fact, I'm already trying to decide what to make next!

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark2215 View Post
    Great job, looks nice. What was the setting that made the difference? Now you'll have a couple hours swearing at it getting it to run right, especially if you're going nose down. I enjoy tinkering with things so the whole process has been fun for me. In fact, I'm already trying to decide what to make next!
    I am working on the bullet feeder pro /ultimate edition. 2 times as big as the original one 🤣
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  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    I am working on the bullet feeder pro /ultimate edition. 2 times as big as the original one 🤣
    Ugh. I just started putting together my A8 and I already need a bigger 3D Printer.

    What 3D software are you using to design with?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorfish View Post
    Ugh. I just started putting together my A8 and I already need a bigger 3D Printer.

    What 3D software are you using to design with?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    🤣🤣

    I am designing with openSCAD. My goal is to change one variable (base plate diameter) and it sets up all other dimension by itself.
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  16. #36
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    I have had problems recently with printing correctly.
    With the assistance from Mike, I have pretty much pinpointed it down to the gap between the bed and nozzle.
    I had installed the touchless auto level sensor and had it setup.
    It seemed to work ok but I wanted to play around with the bed mat that was suggested earlier.
    After a hr of messing with it I went pack to blue tape.
    I couldn’t get the gap set right. Ended up cracking the mount that held the sensor either by over tightness or the sensor hitting the print

    I ended up lowering the nozzle two turns (out of the extruder) and releveling again using the auto sensor (prior to seeing the crack)
    So long story shorter, went back with the factory switch.
    Leveled the bed twice and was able to print again.

    On printing on blue tape or any material.
    80% of your print problems have to deal with nozzle/bed gap
    10% is temp settings and 10% has to deal with code/cura settings

  17. #37
    Boolit Bub J. DIEGO's Avatar
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    Thanks for your work AmmoMike83
    It would be possible to take more advantage of my tavola tarantula print 20x20 I have two feeders of their own and I would like to be somewhat larger for the capacity
    of my printer, if it makes bigger files ... maybe I can not print them
    because my printer capacity is 20x20 so alone.
    Thanks again for your dedication.
    regards
    Diego

  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    What was the setting that made the difference?
    It was the temperature, the settings in #21 are what I am using now.

    The Aquanet/tile mirror cut down to fit the bed is another suggestion that makes for a good starting point.

    Gap setting at .0035” is where it’s working for me and this takes a few minutes because you have to do it over and over until you can go to all 4 corners and they are the same. You change one and it effects the others,so it’s a bit like “sneaking up” on the correct gap.

    My current bullet collators can hold more bullets than my case feeder can and collate correctly.

    So I add bullets every two hundred, cases and primers every hundred. I use cups to get close to the right amount and always have a bit more in the collators than needed.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    It was the temperature, the settings in #21 are what I am using now.

    The Aquanet/tile mirror cut down to fit the bed is another suggestion that makes for a good starting point.

    Gap setting at .0035” is where it’s working for me and this takes a few minutes because you have to do it over and over until you can go to all 4 corners and they are the same. You change one and it effects the others,so it’s a bit like “sneaking up” on the correct gap.

    My current bullet collators can hold more bullets than my case feeder can and collate correctly.

    So I add bullets every two hundred, cases and primers every hundred. I use cups to get close to the right amount and always have a bit more in the collators than needed.
    Cooooool setup. I tried to build such a primer feed pistol on my own. The printer isn’t capable of printing that fine ring structure to flip the primers. Even with a 0.25mm nozzle it fails. You are probably right about the dimensions. MBF came up with the MBF pro yesterday, and I was hagged off, and tried to build a variable openSCAD script. Hatch wanted thicker walls and so on. Is the print stable enough for you now?
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  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Is the print stable enough for you now?
    Everything is looking good now printed off a couple small parts this morning and starting the case feed side of the hanger now.

    How does the spring attach to the part that screws to the bottom of the base plate?

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
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