If you don't want to save the boolit this is easier and faster
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Bullet-Puller
If you don't want to save the boolit this is easier and faster
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Bullet-Puller
I am a big RCBS fan and you can’t go wrong with them, but I went Frankford Arsenal and have had no problems.
I have had a "Lyman" since at least the last century and it has been the absolutely best bullet puller of all of them, and I would swear by it for longevity. Right on the handle in big letters it says Lyman Products. So, its the best because the best company built it. Wait a minute. On the other side it has a name I have never heard of. It says Quinetics Corp in San Antonio. And on the screw on case holder it says the same thing. What the! Isn't San Antonio in some other country?
Last edited by DonMountain; 03-09-2018 at 09:57 PM.
Thanks for all the replies. I had never heard of Quinetics. Thanks for the heads up. I do use pliers to grab bullets through the press hole, but that dont work with 9mm and 45 autos. I dont have a large quantity of ammo to disassemble, just factory duds occasionally, and dummies i've made up and want to break down.
I got turned off rcbs, at least once, when wanting me to mail in the scrap. I bought and reinforced a new Franklin and like it.
If you want to use the pliers on short rounds cut a piece of steel tubing 2-3" long that fits freely over the ram shell holder set it over the ram and raise slide shell in and grip lower ram usig the tube to engage the pliers instead of the die hole. It works good and is fast.
I too got a Quinetics many years ago and the collet spring broke. Next trip to the kids orthodontist I got some rubber bands for braces. Work great and still have bunches left. Bang it on a piece of 4" by 12" from old header.
Don; I also have a Quinetics---bought it in the 70's at Quinetics Hdq's in San Antone, TX, about 40miles N of my home. Good impact puller,
still going strong.
Pete
Baumann
Another long-time RCBS user here. Broken parts were replaced no questions asked shipped free to my mailbox. This happened just recently with the cap. It broke while using it. I would buy RCBS with confidence again. Functionally, I don't see much difference in any of them.
I've got one that was sold by MidwayUSA or Dillon, but I've got no clue who really made it. It has worked for about 25 years and I'm sure it will break someday. When I need to replace it, I'll probably just find a similar one. There just isn't much to them. It's a hollow hammer !
I actually thought about saving the little three piece jaw and making a replacement from some 1/2" black iron pipe, a "tee" a couple of short nipples, a thick washer and two end caps.
Pete; I actually knew that San Antonio was in Texas. I bought mine in the 80's I think. Maybe from Midway but I am not sure now. And I have unloaded probably thousands of rounds with it over the years. Replaced a few of the O-rings from my stock in the shop. When you live on a farm you always have lots of supplies for this sort of thing. I have always used the hammer on a 2x4 piece of wood laying on the concrete floor. And I have to clean the threads occasionally and squirt some black powder on it from lubing the seed in the planter. If anybody needs any of this stuff you can buy a couple pound tube of it at the John Deere dealer for just a couple of bucks. I think its graphite.
Last edited by DonMountain; 03-10-2018 at 12:16 PM.
I think to optimize the quick-stop when you strike the hammer on something you would probably want the hammer as light as possible, hence why they are all made out of plastic. Even with my plastic Quinetics I break up the 2x4's I strike in on pretty fast. And the heavier it got that might be a real problem. But making it completely out of PVC might be a real good idea.
It's the inertia of the bullet that matters, not the inertia of the tool. Most of the impact pullers are made of plastic because they don't need to be heavy and plastic is inexpensive. When the impact puller stops the bullet wants to keep going and that's the force that pulls the bullet from the casing. I agree that a heaver hammer would do more damage to whatever it is striking and that's an excellent reason to use the lightest hammer possible. However, I usually just hit the concrete floor when I need to use an impact puller and that stops the puller just fine
I use a concrete floor also. Stops the puller dead in its tracks, but not the bullet.
I use a lead puck I have set aside for use with my grommet punches, it stops the puller without any damage.
"Freedom is the sure possession of those alone who have the courage to defend it."
~Pericles~
I have both the RCBS inertia and press mounted collet puller, I much prefer the collet puller (no banging, no mess).
I'd like a collet puller too, but i've seen several occasions it wouldnt have worked. Wadcutters and round balls come to mind, as well as the lee .452 230 TC that I just acquired. I aint looking to take down bunches of rounds, nor even a dozen of the same at the same time. Yet at least. Now, if I run into a bunch reloads or surplus ammo I need to take down then i'll invest in a collet puller at that time If I aint got one by then.
I imagine that a block of wood would give a longer service life to the inertial puller than concrete would.
Last edited by Bazoo; 03-11-2018 at 01:11 AM.
i use a collet type for jacketed bullets, a kinetic style (rcbs) for cast, and a homemade one for the larger calibers (577/martini and 577 snider).
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |