2nd Amend./U.S. Const. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
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Restore the Republic!!!
For the Fudds > "Those who appease a tiger, do so in the hope that the tiger will eat them last." -Winston Churchill.
President Reagan tells it like it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6MwPgPK7WQ
Phil Robertson explains the Wall: https://youtu.be/f9d1Wof7S4o
country gent - On marking 2 molds to be different, you could use colored masking tape, colored wire ties, even paint, or a Sharpie marker (I have a Red, Green, Blue, Black Sharpie set that I keep in my reloading gear, handy for reduced power 'mouse fart' load marking among other things.)
6bg6ga, not irritated at you here, just that my budget is way tooo limited. And I've had way too much gear stolen, which gets OLD quickly. Not much has broken, fortunately, but that can happen. Those who stole my gear, I am irritated at, or sure WAS anyways. You, not irritated at. I just use humor as a coping skill, and have a lot to cope with at times. Purple text was used even
You don't need no PID, I cast without one , over 50 years now.
For the big rifle boolits you will get the best with ladle and pressure casting from an open top pot. Lyman ladle with the little side spout works for me.
A good pot is the Lee Magnum Melter ...holds almost 20 lbs. of metal, leave room for fluxing and stirring.
If heat is a problem , open doors and windows and use a fan...it's not that bad.
I stand with the pot in front of me about 16 inches away but I don't stand over the pot....no problem with heat. Casting on a cool day helps also.
Don't get all caught up in info overload. It ain't rocket science , some people love complicated but I just keep it simple.
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
You dont even need to buy a pot.........many years ago,i made a big bearing installer at work,bit of 8" pipe with a heavy plate base .....used once to install bearing......used ever since as a lead pot....Used to be on the stove,now on a cheap single hotplate.Judging by a laser therm,the temp holds very steady,and I turn the power off at a certain point and cast the last 100 or so as the lead cools....Some lead left in the pot helps speed up the next melt.
Don't over complicate things. Many a bootit has been cast over a campfire in whatever spoon shaped implement that could be scrounged.
I always test run a new mold with a ladle and a propane torch. Boolits just like Grandpa used to make.
[QUOTE=Mr_Sheesh;4312566]country gent - On marking 2 molds to be different, you could use colored masking tape, colored wire ties, even paint, or a Sharpie marker (I have a Red, Green, Blue, Black Sharpie set that I keep in my reloading gear, handy for reduced power 'mouse fart' load marking among other things.)
The idea isn't to id the moulds but the bullets from each mould so if there are any diffrences the bullets can be separated and shot as each group. That the reason for the small ring or punch marh on the point in one mould this will show on the bullet allowing it to be grouped with others from the same mould / cavity
Country gent, I found a tank bottom in my scrap pile that looks like it will make a great melting pot. It is 14" in diamiter and 5" deep. Nice slow rounded bottum. It fits on top of my gas burner and stand great. This burner stand is of the type used for turkey fries and such. The tank bottum is 3/16" thick steal. A little surface rust, but I think a wire wheel will take care of that. I would post a picture, but, cant seem to figure out how.
I have a heart condition Gas burner is probably not a good idea due to the heat. Ok for smelting, big electric ladle pot is probably better for your casting. My cardio. says to not stay in the hot tub long. Have you looked at NOE or Accurate for moulds? Lyman doesn't have a real good rep. Personally, I'd go with an Al. mould and big bottom pour pot due to the weight of those boolits. You need a rest for the mould when pouring. You probably won't pour very many in a session.
Whatever!
Thanks popper. I have come to the conclusion tha a gas burner (as you pointed out) will throw off too much heat. It may be a good option when cold weather comes. As to weather a bottom or top poure pot is best, well they both seem to have good points. I am brand new to casting. It seems that most opinions indicate that a ladle top pour will be better for my 535gr bullets. A big mold cavity to fill. But, I feel you are exactly correct about being able to rest the mold while filling. My cardio. Doc does not like me to get overheated. He insist thst I just pace myself. That means cast a little, back off a little and cast a little more. As for molds, I will check out NOE and Accurate. Not sure who AL is. I will google it up.
Thanks
AL is aluminum an aluminum mould.
DJ, I like to keep my SAECO 10-pounder full, so I set an ingot on the rim, and as the level goes down drop it in and replace it with another. With the mass of lead in the pot, and the ingot being warmed on the rim, temp doesn't drop too much. And I start off with a supply of ingots at hand. Casting for the 45-70 is going to go through lead like fecal matter through a goose, so warming the additional before putting it in makes sense.
Echo
USAF Ret
DPS, 2600
NRA Benefactor
O&U
One of the most endearing sights in the world is the vision of a naked good-looking woman leaving the bedroom to make breakfast. Bolivar Shagnasty (I believe that Lazarus Long also said it, but I can't find any record of it.)
davisj - If heat from the gas burner is going to cause you a health problem, put a sheet of aluminum foil (or a cookie sheet or whatever) between yourself & the burner's flame, that would absorb / reflect the heat keeping you cool. A foot or so away from the flame is wise so it doesn't melt the Aluminum!
I have a heart condition myself. I would follow the suggestions of others here shield the flame so it is concentrated on the pot. Pace yourself so you don't get too tired and take brakes. Either gas or electric for a heat source is going to provide a lot of heat. A pot with an internal electric heater would be your best choice. Mine is a Ballisti-cast MK IV and I cover the top of the pot to maximize the efficiency of the unit and I also put ingots on top of the aluminum plate that I put on top of the pot to preheat them.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |