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Thread: Reloading for Belted magnum

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Reloading for Belted magnum

    Guys I was just gifted 2 rifles a 375 H&H and a 300 win mag Well i went to pick up a box of bullets for the 375 I'm still
    in shock at the price $70. for a box of 20 anyway I need to reload for this rifle if I want to shoot the 375 both rifles are made by
    a company in SD. anyway can you tell me about loading for the 375 H&H whats a good powder / bullet combo I have never
    loaded for a Belted magnum I would appreciate any and all tips is this a cast friendly caliber
    thanks
    kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    I have reloaded 300 Win mag a lot. Best advise I can give you is buy from Innovative Technologies a collet die made by Larry Willis. After you resize your brass, check it with this tool and if needed you can resize this brass just above the belt with this tool. I have had reloaded ammo made from fired brass not be able to close the chamber after full length sizing or even using a small base die or even machining off couple of thousands. For powders you can use H4831SC or similar. I have purchased once fired 300 Win Mag military brass that was a difficult to get back into good brass but with the mentioned above tools had great success after the problem was discovered. I was running a 200 Gr Barnes Triple shock copper bullet, H4831SC, powder for elk hunting.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    is this it http://www.larrywillis.com/ $96.95
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  4. #4
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    That tool will save you a bunch of greif in avoiding sticky loading rounds and extend the life of your brass. Also, the one for 375 h&h will work on all cases based on that parent case. I use same die on my 7mm rem & 300 wby. I don't have a 375 H&H yet but someday....
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  5. #5
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    I set up the dies just like it was a 30-06 when I load my belted 7mm RemMag. I just nudge the shoulder instead of taking it all the way back to factory specs. The cases headspace on the belt, but I load them as if they headspaced on the shoulder.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Hodges View Post
    I set up the dies just like it was a 30-06 when I load my belted 7mm RemMag. I just nudge the shoulder instead of taking it all the way back to factory specs. The cases headspace on the belt, but I load them as if they headspaced on the shoulder.
    I really question how well that method would work with the .375 H&H; it's one of two belted cartridges that really NEED the belt to headspace on, IMHO - the other one being the .300 H&H.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy kaiser's Avatar
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    I've owned and reloaded both the .375 H&H and the .300 H&H and the method of resizing on the shoulder that Rick suggests worked well for me. How much it extended the "life" of the case, I do not know. I never reloaded those "rounds" more than 5 times before relegating them to "reduced loads" or the "trash bin" (depended on inspection results). All in all, reloading saved a lot of money and increased the amount of shooting I could afford to do with these "excellent" and versatile cartridges. Both burned a lot of 4350, 4831, and 760 powder and .375 bullets are not "cheap", but surprisingly, both calibers respond to cast loads at the level of 38/55 and 30/30 velocities, which really made them fun to shoot!

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    looks like i have a lot to learn about this
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  9. #9
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    If you are talking cast bullets;

    In the three six bits I suggest the 375449 GC bullet over 4895 with a Dacron filler for medium (1800 fps) and top end (2150 - 2300 fps) loads. for small gave and plinking the .375 RB with a coat of LLA over 4 gr of Bullseye is excellent as is the 375248 over 8 gr Bullseye. No filler with either of those loads.

    In the 300 H&H I suggest the 311299 over 34 - 36 gr H4895 with a Dacron filler.

    I strongly suggest the investment in a Redding neck size die for each given the cost of brass. With the use of the NS die the brass will last for many firings.

    If you want jacketed loads I have those from the Speer 235 gr SP up the Woodleigh 350 SP and FMJs?
    Larry Gibson

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  10. #10
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I recently loaded for a .375 with bargain table Hornady bullets and IMR 4198 for a nice reduced load. A very easy to load cartridge. I've yet to need a .300 WM so I'm no help there but I've heard you should neck up and back down NEW brass to fireform to your rifle. This way you avoid head separations on the brass.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Thanks Larry

    if you were to pick between the two 375 H&H or the 300 win what would be more forgiving to load for or would it be about the same
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  12. #12
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    If your going to buy dies..........get the RCBS X- dies. Your brass will last longer and you only have to trim once.

    Winelover

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by LUCKYDAWG13 View Post
    Thanks Larry

    if you were to pick between the two 375 H&H or the 300 win what would be more forgiving to load for or would it be about the same
    For cast bullets, given most 300 H&Hs have a 10" twist barrel, the three six bits with 12" twist barrels is very easy to load cast for up through 2350 fps with a good GC'd cast bullet. Although with the 300 H&H you are shooting less alloy per bullet if that's a factor.

    With jacketed bullets at full throttle the 300 H&H is more forgiving based on cost of jacketed bullets (50 jacketed 375s cost just about as much as 100 jacketed .30 cals) and, of course, recoil.........
    Larry Gibson

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  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Thank you all
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  15. #15
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    I have a 335gr mold from Accurate Molds that I'm using with my 375 Hurt&Hurt. I've been partial full length sizing the brass after an initial fire forming. I'm using an Encore and just touching the shoulder to ensure proper ignition. Currently I'm changing out the optics on this rifle. I've also purchased some new old stock 300gr BTSP Hornady bullets to load for it as well.

    I've been using RL-7 in my cast loads. I do have some 235gr Speer bullets loaded, I used H335 in those.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    If you are talking cast bullets;

    In the three six bits I suggest the 375449 GC bullet over 4895 with a Dacron filler for medium (1800 fps) and top end (2150 - 2300 fps) loads. for small gave and plinking the .375 RB with a coat of LLA over 4 gr of Bullseye is excellent as is the 375248 over 8 gr Bullseye. No filler with either of those loads.

    In the 300 H&H I suggest the 311299 over 34 - 36 gr H4895 with a Dacron filler.

    I strongly suggest the investment in a Redding neck size die for each given the cost of brass. With the use of the NS die the brass will last for many firings.

    If you want jacketed loads I have those from the Speer 235 gr SP up the Woodleigh 350 SP and FMJs?
    I couldn`t agree more on this .375 H&H suggestions.Robert

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    I picked up 2 boxes of Remington factory loaded bullets at a gun show last week $30 a box at least I will have some once fired brass
    and will see if i like this Rifle
    kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies

  18. #18
    Boolit Master duckey's Avatar
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    I have a CZ .375. Not sure what the best load is, however I use RL 15 and from 250 -270 gn J words BTHP or soft point hornady bullets. I keep my charges light which keeps my shoulder happy. I have only shot these out to 100 yards at my local rang.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check