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Thread: What is it????? Update: SOLVED

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    I'm googled it on metal forming hand tools, metal working hand tools, jewelry making tools.
    Mostly looking at the pictures.
    Nothing even close to it.
    I even posted it in the hobby machinist forum.
    Nothing.
    Any other suggestions where I might try????

  2. #22
    Boolit Master corbinace's Avatar
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  3. #23
    Boolit Master

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    I think you will find it to be a variation of a dapping block tool set.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I don't think it's a hammer. I think that handle is just for positioning the balls in to whatever it is for. Certainly wouldn't need that kind of precision for peening something. It may be that the handle is for holding the various balls in position to test their fit. Perhaps for ball bearing replacement. Is there anything that has various sized dents or cups that would need to be comparison measured with the different balls? I like puzzles like this. It stretches one's research muscles.
    AKA hans.pcguy

  5. #25
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    corbiance nailed it. Dent remover for musical instruments.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master copdills's Avatar
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    I have no Idea what that is , but its COOL

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by abunaitoo View Post
    Got it free.
    Well the price was right. Describe the hammer, brass with a flat face ? What is the other end ?
    I enjoy a good what is it !
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Hammer is two piece. Handle and head. Head has a flat and round surface.
    I looked through the musical instrument site. Didn't find anything like it.
    Could it be some kind of concentricity tool for tubing ????

  9. #29
    Boolit Man
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    To get a dent out of your car?

    old fasion way

  10. #30
    Boolit Man
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Just a wild guess
    Last edited by parkerhale1200; 03-11-2018 at 05:28 AM.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    It is a planisher/planishing kit for forming metal into curves, bowls, domes, etc. Yes many of them were used to gently remove and reshape brass musical instruments. Some of them were used for jewelry, coppersmithing, and yes larger versions were used to make helmets, knee cops and elbow cops, and shield bosses for armor (and are still used for that by groups like the SCA). Basically any time you want to make a dome shape or curve/cup out of flat metal that is the kind of kit you need. With it's age, size, and the hammer type I would say it probably was designed for copper, or aluminum.

    FYI Search "Planishing Stake Kit" and you will see modern versions. That is a very old one, AND you only have the ball side (which the kit honestly may have only come with originally).

    Flat side of the hammer is used for working and forming the outside of the "dome" while the sheet of flat metal lays on the stake. The round side of the hammer is used on the inside of the "dome" while it rests on either a flat surface, or in a cupped piece sometimes simply worked into the top of a log (dishing stump) or board on the workbench.

    Also bear in mind that alot of coppersmiths, silversmiths, jewlers, etc made their own planishing kits, and this MIGHT have been homemade by somebody.

    Edited (again) to add: As for instructions.... erm there are basic planishing instructions around though alot of them are for machine shop power tools these days. The ideal person to ask is whoever built it (good luck with that). However playing around with some fine sheet copper on it using basic guides online should be both safe, and incredibly frustrating until you get it down.

    https://www.popularwoodworking.com/p...opper-hardware


    Honestly it is a heck of a nice find and gift from whoever you got it from. Not many people have the skill or knowledge to work copper or other metals on hand planishing setups these days, particularly one with that fine of stakes (fine as in small).

    Ok so edited one more time to add the question my wife asked when looking over my shoulder: "How the Hell did you know what that was?" My response was pointing at my noggin and saying "There's alot rattling around up there."

    God Bless, and One Love.

    GoodOlBoy
    Last edited by ReloaderFred; 03-11-2018 at 12:13 PM.
    Yes I can be long winded. Yes I follow rabbit trails. Yes I admit when I am wrong. Your mileage may vary.

    Keep your powder dry. Watch yer Top knot.

    "Praise the Lord and pass the ammunition!"

    Yes there were "Short" 45 Colts! http://www.leverguns.com/articles/taylor/45_short_colt.htm

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    Oh oh! Since the other post is so long winded let me add here. That kit needs to be cleaned up badly before it is used for copper, brass, silver, aluminum, etc. Otherwise the rust texture will show up in the work. My advice would be to take some very VERY VERY fine emery cloth, and/or steel wool, and some oil, and slowly polish (please don't sand them) each one of those stakes by hand. Once that is done, keep them with either a light coating of oil, or beeswax on them to keep them from rusting again.

    Edited to add (sorry I do that alot): The reason those stakes are rusted on top and not on bottom for those curious... Copper planishing often used heated copper, but at low temps, so the heat would have been just enough to add to the chances of oxidation in the steel. So long as the kit was in regular use it is very likely the rust never formed, but once it was shelved.... bingo. IF you are going to use heated stock on it I would think you would want to lean towards beeswax for the treatment, not oil. Because the oil will eventually cause a discoloration that will transfer to the stock being worked, where the beeswax "shouldn't".... to quote a tv series i loved "I smell a whole lot of 'should' coming off of this plan."

    It will take alot of time and "play" with fine sheet metals to figure out what you are going to do with it, and how.

    God Bless, and One Love

    GoodOlBoy
    Last edited by GoodOlBoy; 03-11-2018 at 07:59 AM.
    Yes I can be long winded. Yes I follow rabbit trails. Yes I admit when I am wrong. Your mileage may vary.

    Keep your powder dry. Watch yer Top knot.

    "Praise the Lord and pass the ammunition!"

    Yes there were "Short" 45 Colts! http://www.leverguns.com/articles/taylor/45_short_colt.htm

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Sounds like that's what it is.
    I'll do a search to see what else i can find.
    Thank you

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    Anytime. I love seeing tools I don't know what they are, and then seeing what they are when somebody actually knows. It was kind of a thrill to actually be the one to know what it was for once!

    God Bless, and One Love.

    GoodOlBoy
    Yes I can be long winded. Yes I follow rabbit trails. Yes I admit when I am wrong. Your mileage may vary.

    Keep your powder dry. Watch yer Top knot.

    "Praise the Lord and pass the ammunition!"

    Yes there were "Short" 45 Colts! http://www.leverguns.com/articles/taylor/45_short_colt.htm

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    Did some searching and found nothing like it.
    It could just be home made.
    Looks real good if it is.
    I'm wondering why the rod, and movable ball base???

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    I will be honest in that I have no idea at all why that rod would be there, however, the fact that the base moves the stake closer and further away indicates that maybe it had something to do with either holding the stock (which I am not certain why) or perhaps even holding soldering material on a spool, or something like that. We probably will never know, but I still have this itch in the back of my noodle that says that is only part of a larger kit, and perhaps there was something else that mounted on the rod. If that was used by a jeweler then it is very possible a magnifying lens could have been mounted on the rod for very very fine work. The possibilities are almost endless with it.

    Much like old blacksmith tools it may be that without the original user/creator we will never know what every piece was for.

    If you do figure something out, I would love to know more about it myself.

    God Bless, and One Love

    GoodOlBoy
    Yes I can be long winded. Yes I follow rabbit trails. Yes I admit when I am wrong. Your mileage may vary.

    Keep your powder dry. Watch yer Top knot.

    "Praise the Lord and pass the ammunition!"

    Yes there were "Short" 45 Colts! http://www.leverguns.com/articles/taylor/45_short_colt.htm

  17. #37
    Boolit Master

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    For what it's worth, when I saw it I immediately thought "planishing hammer/stake set".

    I have nothing with which to back that thought, except a gut feeling, and 17 or so years working in a general repair/body shop, plus a few years in an automotive machine shop.

    I have to go with GOB (GoodOlBoy) here.
    "Varium et mutabile semper femina." - Virgil
    Man, ain't it the truth....

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    NOT for brass musicals stuff as those set have many, scores of balls, loose to blow through a hot tub, removing 1 or 2,3 thousands at a time. Then you go up a size and go again. My brother has one of those sets. Obviously, a Coronet and Tuba requires different sets. I think something is missing from your set; mounts on the pole. Funny how the rust is only on the top side.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    As a Certified Public Accountant, I can attest to the fact that it is not an old fashioned financial calculator. But I kind of have the urge to get some sheets of metal and pound on it some.

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
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    Dapping set. Just add a dapping block.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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