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Thread: Dirty shooting with bll?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master brewer12345's Avatar
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    Dirty shooting with bll?

    I have been tumble living 38 wadcutters and had great accuracy and no leading. There is some smoke, but no biggie. The trouble is that crud builds up in the front of the revolver cylinder to the point that after a hundred shots or so I have to clean it off or the cylinder binds. Is this normal? Am I using too much?
    "I have learned from experience that a modicum of snuff can be most efficacious." - the Baron von Munchausen

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Ben's Avatar
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    The only thing it could be is a wax ( with a bit of carbon ) build up on the face of the cylinder. Are you using too much, .....I have no idea if you are or not.

    I've never heard other shooters who use BLL complain about this ? Maybe you are using too much ?

    Ben
    Last edited by Ben; 03-02-2018 at 10:59 PM.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    Let me ask you this.

    With a single coat, can you by eye see a color difference between a coated and an uncoated bullet?

    If so IMO yes, probably using too much.

    Ideally for pistol I like 2 light coats, 3 for rifle with higher speeds, pressures.

    After 2 light coats you might see a hint of color in lube groove. Bullet won't be "shiny" may have a slight fuzzy look. But there should not IMO be a definable color there.

    I don't shoot revolver a lot but I am not seeing any build up on the front of my cylinders in either of my H&R Revolvers chambered in .32sw long.

    The other thing you might try is when you have that second very light coat spill them onto a cardboard flat and put in front of a small fan. Walk away for 4 hours. Make sure they are fully cured, not tacky.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master brewer12345's Avatar
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    I am guessing this was simply excessive lube. I am coating, push through sizing, coating again. These boolits were a few months old, completely dry.
    "I have learned from experience that a modicum of snuff can be most efficacious." - the Baron von Munchausen

  5. #5
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    crud ?
    What Load?

    many times WC loads are light, which can cause incomplete powder burn.
    I use to use Red Dot for WC loads, because I have a large stash of vintage stock, which I got for a small price years ago. But I got incomplete burn and powder granules would get into the crane/pin and would bind the cylinder.

    I have since switched to Bullseye.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    BLL should dry to the touch in just two hours. It's a good indicator to judge if you're using too much.
    A deplorable that votes!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    What IS BLL?

    Is it a substitute for Johnsons Liquid Floor Wax? I'm searching for an alternative to use will LLA. (god I hate acronyms).

  8. #8
    Boolit Master 35 shooter's Avatar
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    BLL is Ben's Liquid lube which is made with Johnson's liquid wax and alox.

    Lundmark liquid wax has been tried as a substitute for the "no longer" made Johnson's, but i don't know how well it works at higher rifle velocity.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    It is a mix of Alox and Johnsons one step no buff floor wax (no longer available) like the ardvark/Ed

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks. I have been using the Johnson's and Liquid Alox, which I learned of here, for a while now. It as worked well.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrentD View Post
    What IS BLL?

    Is it a substitute for Johnsons Liquid Floor Wax? I'm searching for an alternative to use will LLA. (god I hate acronyms).
    You and I both sir !

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    I thought Ben's lube was 60:40 Liquid Alox and Johnson's liquid floor wax. But I know of only one bottle of the Johnson's for sale ($75 + shipping on ebay - no kidding).

    Then I see something that is called 45-45-10. Near as I can tell, reading backwards ( a LONG WAYS backwards) in the pinned thread, I finally discovered it is a mix of Alox, Johnson's and the 10 is 10% Mineral Spirits. And apparently folks are still selling it but there is no Johnson's available. I get confused easy, but I'm trying to avoid the black arts of lube cookery.

    I hardly ever use any lube at all on my lead bullets. When I do about 1/2 the time it's for blackpowder. But I do dabble in lubed smokeless now and again, it's just so much more complicated.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master 35 shooter's Avatar
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    45/45/10 is made with Johnson's Paste Wax...the paste wax is still available.

    It's the Johnson's Liquid Wax that's been discontinued.
    The paste wax is available at most hardware stores....Lowes, Ace Hardware, etc.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Awesome. That is some help!

  15. #15
    Boolit Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    http://lsstuff.com/store/index.php?m...products_id=31

    That is the easy way. Premixed, nothing to go wrong, proven company, proven product.

    The other road might take you off the road into the weeds.
    Personally I like the weeds, and I love BLL, and my variants of it. It has worked very well for me.
    But I was able to secure a stash of 5 of the tall yellow cans before the prices got out of sight.

    I do like to add some Carnuba wax to mine, love what it does for clean shiny rifle bores.

    But in all honesty I don't push the speed envelope much.

    For slower speeds, below 2000 fps, I don't think you can beat it for ease of use, and how well it shoots.

    Just takes a little.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yodogsandman View Post
    BLL should dry to the touch in just two hours. It's a good indicator to judge if you're using too much.
    I look at my tuperware bowl after I dump the bullets on the drying screen. It should be moist but not pooling wet. I set my screen in the sun and they are dry in an hour. The powder can have a lot to do with how clean a load shoots. As long as it cleans up easy I don't worry about it, particularly if it is an accurate load.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check