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Thread: Homemade Gun Oil

  1. #61
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    I suspect the "whoever came up with the recipe put it in "just because"."
    ...and probably for the smell.

    Also, it's not that different than what is known as "the secret gunshow Gunoil'
    70% Mobil One full synth auto engine oil
    30% STP
    What I like about it is it stays where you put it unlike the thin as water
    stuff sold as gun oil.This is a matter st for semiautomatic firearms.
    as I understand, the STP helps adhere the oil to exterior gun metal to retard finger prints, as well as, the Mobil One doesn't have the rainbow color effect that most petroleum oils have, so it doesn't alter the gun metal Blue color.
    I have been using that mixture for over 20 years, works well!
    Put the mixture in the microwave to warm it so the ingredients will mix well!

  2. #62
    Boolit Master RU shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by midland man View Post
    well after reading all of this heres what i been using for over 25 years i use the old fashioned 3-1 oil on all my guns even the wood and it works great! so does anyone else use this oil on their guns??
    I do I'm not in extreme climates or fire my guns excessively in a single range visit , seems to prevent rust as well as any other oil I've tried . IMO just about any oil would works for my general needs when my bottle of 3:1 runs out I'll probably just use some 5w30 since I have a half quart just setting in the shed that should last me 10 or so years .
    If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!

  3. #63
    Boolit Buddy
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    I haven't use Hoppe's 9 in year because I dislike the scent of it. Their "new" version doesn't sink like the old?

  4. #64
    Boolit Master

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    I had a buddy that pulled the dipstick out of his truck to apply oil to a 45 slide once so I guess you use what you got if you need it right then .

  5. #65
    Boolit Master
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    Read the article on home made gun oil. I have a rather large assortment of oils,greases and solvents just for guns. Bought a Ruger American compact in 7.62x39 and couldn't get the copper out from the test firing. I have a small amount of Butch's bore shine and between swapping with a tight patch and scrubbing with a bore brush finally got it out. Drove me nuts. Must be using the copper plated steel jacketed mil surp ammo. Since reading the article I realize I don't have to leave the house to get the components listed. Have the red&tacky grease for rails and slides. couple flavors of atf, stp, Marvel mystery oil and some hoppes. I store my lathe oils that when I bought them in 5 gal pails in orange magic heavy duty hand soap with the grit in it. I flush out the empty containers extremely well and blow them out with the air compressor to dry them out.
    One is labeled lathe oil which is the same as Mobil DTE 2160 (not sure about the right number) turbine oil and the other jug has the way oil which is supposed to limit and slippage on the cross slide assembly and tail stock. We had a mechanic who would drain his cars engine oil, dump in 5 quarts of the turbine oil and run the engine for about a half hour. Dump the oil and now change the filter and fresh engine oil. We had drums of mystery oils and would dump the oil changes in these drums. Bout once a year truck with a small hydraulic crane comes by and picks ip all the drums. Oil is sent to a refinery to get refined into another oil and all the contaminents were used for something else. By the way, the 30w non detergent oil is usually any brand that I add some marine gas stabilizer for my hit and miss engine. Many of you have listed many formulas but the ones with atf and stp seem to be the most common. We have kroil,Butch's bore shine and modern detergent atf fluids and detergent engine oils. I suspect that a good oil should be able to both clean and lubricate a firearm. Still have a few bottles of LSA around here. Nice information and you could mix smaller batches rather than gallons. Keep your buddies guessing as to what you are using. Have fum.Frank

  6. #66
    Boolit Master
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    As long as people are adding to this thread...
    Yesterday night I hauled out my new to me Handi Rifle in 45/70. I bought it about a month ago and just put it away. I was curious last night to see if it was leaded.
    Sure enough. I went lead mining with this thing. I tried my old standard of chore boy copper scrubber filaments wrapped around a bronze brush with ATF (don't have any synthetic left so I was using regular ATF.) It was getting the lead out but it was taking a long time. I must have used up over 50 patches after the scrubbing with the copper and brush. That is too much wear on the bore anyway. So I took to the internet and found EDS RED. I didn't have the right ingredients so I used 1-1-1 ATF - Acetone - WD 40. It looked interesting. Pleasant pink color.
    I applied it like they suggest ... putting a liberal amount on a patch and wetting down the barrel and letting it sit for half hour or so. I let it sit about an hour. I looked down the bore and was pretty amazed. I could see what appeared to be flakes of lead lifting away from the barrel. Looked like one of those trees with the scraggly messy bark.
    I ran the brush through a little (without the copper) then ran tight patches through. BINGO. Clean! NO MORE LEAD. I was impressed to say the least.
    I can't say if EDS RED works the same, better or worse but this stuff WORKS. I am going to call it PINK 1-1-1.
    AKA hans.pcguy

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check