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Thread: Pacific DL 150

  1. #21
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOA View Post
    Jessdigs, go www.pacificreloaders.awardspace.com that should help. You are not missing anything at that station. The only things I see you are missing is the empty spent primer catcher box that goes in the slot on the left side of the base underneath the depriming station. Your wad guide is adjustable for the hull length by way of set screw or bolt on left side of main support shaft. Yes, you need a new return spring.

    I just looked at the website I posted for you help. Click on the photo gallery for good images.
    I just picked up a DL-155.
    I found that awardspace website at
    http://pacificreloaders.awardspace.c...c%20DL-150.htm
    It is the only site in the bowls of the internet with any info on the 150.
    And as previously posted, the parts Diagram is not really legible. I would love to find a more clear version.

    http://pacificreloaders.awardspace.c...c%20DL-150.htm
    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  2. #22
    Boolit Master MOA's Avatar
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    Ok Jessdigs,

    Images and measurements.

    This is the spring that goes in my DL-155 and the measurements. Your part number on the 150 manual seems to be a 120-22.


    Inside diameter of my spring.


    Return spring anchor locations on my 155. for the return of press handle.


    This is what my metal donut disk looks like on the 155. Your part number for the 150 is 120-21


    This is the measurements on the inside of the disc.


    This is the measurement of the inside diameter in the base where the re-priming donut disk and spring go.

    If I can be of any more help, please let me know.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master DonMountain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOA View Post
    Ok Jessdigs,

    Images and measurements.

    This is the spring that goes in my DL-155 and the measurements. Your part number on the 150 manual seems to be a 120-22.


    Inside diameter of my spring.


    Return spring anchor locations on my 155. for the return of press handle.


    This is what my metal donut disk looks like on the 155. Your part number for the 150 is 120-21


    This is the measurements on the inside of the disc.


    This is the measurement of the inside diameter in the base where the re-priming donut disk and spring go.

    If I can be of any more help, please let me know.
    Your ring and spring is identical to the one in my DL-150. But I think he may have the one that is identical to the one on my DL-110. And they are different.

  4. #24
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    Don't give up on Trapshooters.com they are the single place where there is more info on shotshell loading other than BPI.

    Lots of times they don't like guys who's first post is a question about something they feel is obvious or could be answered by searching the site with the search function. Your question has probably been answered 100 times before and even here lots of guys will look but not reply even when they know the answer.

    When I got my DL266 in 12 ga. I got a DL150 with it both for $100. I turned around and sold the DL150 on the same site a week later for $100 so I got the DL266 for free. The DL266 is arguably the best single stage Shotshell press ever made and Hornady dropped it after they took over the line. I have one in .410 that I had to pay $250 for off Trapshooters.com. It is the only place to look when looking for Shotgun related stuff.

    I also got 1000 OF .410 Hulls offTS.com as there isn't any other place to get stuff like that. I have bought two shotguns, 2500 12ga hulls, sold Spolar and a Dillon SL900 there.

    To give you an idea how much traffic that place gets My Browning Citori Sporting Clays edition in .410 was on the site for exactly 7 minutes before I got it. There was an identical 28 ga. gun from the same seller on for exactly 1 minute before it sold!

    Lastly if Don Verna had not told me about the Cast Boolits site when I was posting about the reloading.40 S&W cartridge over at TS.com, I never would have known about this place.

    Give them another try or search your topic in the search function and you'll get some response.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  5. #25
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by W.R.Buchanan View Post
    Don't give up on Trapshooters.com they are the single place where there is more info on shotshell loading other than BPI.

    Lots of times they don't like guys who's first post is a question about something they feel is obvious or could be answered by searching the site with the search function. Your question has probably been answered 100 times before and even here lots of guys will look but not reply even when they know the answer.

    When I got my DL266 in 12 ga. I got a DL150 with it both for $100. I turned around and sold the DL150 on the same site a week later for $100 so I got the DL266 for free. The DL266 is arguably the best single stage Shotshell press ever made and Hornady dropped it after they took over the line. I have one in .410 that I had to pay $250 for off Trapshooters.com. It is the only place to look when looking for Shotgun related stuff.

    I also got 1000 OF .410 Hulls offTS.com as there isn't any other place to get stuff like that. I have bought two shotguns, 2500 12ga hulls, sold Spolar and a Dillon SL900 there.

    To give you an idea how much traffic that place gets My Browning Citori Sporting Clays edition in .410 was on the site for exactly 7 minutes before I got it. There was an identical 28 ga. gun from the same seller on for exactly 1 minute before it sold!

    Lastly if Don Verna had not told me about the Cast Boolits site when I was posting about the reloading.40 S&W cartridge over at TS.com, I never would have known about this place.

    Give them another try or search your topic in the search function and you'll get some response.

    Randy
    I know people do not like obvious questions. I searched for two days for info on this particular press before I posted over there. I only found the one site I linked above, which has some instructions but no manual or info on parts list or anything.

    I won't give up on them. I have about 12 forums all linked through Tapatalk on my phone, and I use all of them. Thanks for the heads up.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  6. #26
    Boolit Man
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    This has instructions that are a little more clear. http://pacificreloaders.awardspace.c...c%20DL-150.htm

    Are the powder and shot bushings compatible with any other manufacturers?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  7. #27
    Boolit Master MOA's Avatar
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    Jessdigs,

    Your charge bar looks very much like my dl 155. If so, you can use the same bushings as Hornady or Ponsness Warren. I will measure the inside diameter of the shot and powder holes in mine and post it for you today. If they are the same and depending on what gauges you plan to reload for, cause that will determine what size shot bushings you need you can get them from whoever has them in stock and or the cheapest. I got #'s 4,5,6,7,8 from Ponsness Warren direct from Idaho, they also fit my DL-155 and my Ponsness Warren model 375. Both of my machines also use the same powder bushings, but since I already had about 35 powder bushing from having four MEC loaders in four different gauges I just went to BPI and got their adapter bushing holder that allows me to use the MEC bushing in both the DL and the PW machines. Now just a heads up for you, when you get started reloading these shot shells, keep in mind that the powder charts are a GUIDE ONLY!!!!!! As an example if the load data call for 18 grains of Alliant Red Dot, and the powder chart tells you it is bushing number 23, the correct way to go about setting up the correct bushing is to start with the number 23 in the bar without any shot loaded yet in your shot hopper, fill up your powder and then cycle the powder seven or eight times into a bowl and then return the powder to the hopper, then drop another load of powder and weigh it, only then do you go up to the next powder bushing if it measures under the specific load data amount. Same with if it is high, then you pull the bushing out and go to the next number down. THE BUSHING CHART IS JUST A GUIDE. You must weigh the powder drops in order to get the correct powder bushing in the setup. If the guide tells you #23 is the one, but your machine with bushing #25 is what gives you the correct amount of powder in grains, that is the one you should use. Also, always keep a static free small diameter cylinder handy, a once fired paper hull with fired primer still in it is handy. There will be times when you want to drop some powder and weigh it while you are loading shells just to check the powder drop weight, having a non static container handy is nice, use it to dump powder into for the weight check and then dump it back into the hopper, you are then going to want to put it back under the drop tube so you can then cycle the shot into the empty paper hull also so you can get the machine back to the starting cycle of having the charge bar over at the powder side of the cycle process. And then of course pour the shot back into the shot hopper and you are ready to resume your loading.
    Here is a picture of the powder bushing adapter from BPI. and my plastic organizer for my shot and powder bushing for all my reloaders, MEC, PW and the DL.

    Bushing Converter: MEC to PW, RCBS or Hornady



  8. #28
    Boolit Master DonMountain's Avatar
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    jessdigs, did you ever get your primer setup squared away? I just use a short piece of spring that fits in the slot around the center primer anvil to hold the primer on the center, but compresses when you push the hull down to reprime it. Then the spring expands so you can drop another primer in.

  9. #29
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOA View Post
    Jessdigs,

    Your charge bar looks very much like my dl 155. If so, you can use the same bushings as Hornady or Ponsness Warren. I will measure the inside diameter of the shot and powder holes in mine and post it for you today. If they are the same and depending on what gauges you plan to reload for, cause that will determine what size shot bushings you need you can get them from whoever has them in stock and or the cheapest. I got #'s 4,5,6,7,8 from Ponsness Warren direct from Idaho, they also fit my DL-155 and my Ponsness Warren model 375. Both of my machines also use the same powder bushings, but since I already had about 35 powder bushing from having four MEC loaders in four different gauges I just went to BPI and got their adapter bushing holder that allows me to use the MEC bushing in both the DL and the PW machines. Now just a heads up for you, when you get started reloading these shot shells, keep in mind that the powder charts are a GUIDE ONLY!!!!!! As an example if the load data call for 18 grains of Alliant Red Dot, and the powder chart tells you it is bushing number 23, the correct way to go about setting up the correct bushing is to start with the number 23 in the bar without any shot loaded yet in your shot hopper, fill up your powder and then cycle the powder seven or eight times into a bowl and then return the powder to the hopper, then drop another load of powder and weigh it, only then do you go up to the next powder bushing if it measures under the specific load data amount. Same with if it is high, then you pull the bushing out and go to the next number down. THE BUSHING CHART IS JUST A GUIDE. You must weigh the powder drops in order to get the correct powder bushing in the setup. If the guide tells you #23 is the one, but your machine with bushing #25 is what gives you the correct amount of powder in grains, that is the one you should use. Also, always keep a static free small diameter cylinder handy, a once fired paper hull with fired primer still in it is handy. There will be times when you want to drop some powder and weigh it while you are loading shells just to check the powder drop weight, having a non static container handy is nice, use it to dump powder into for the weight check and then dump it back into the hopper, you are then going to want to put it back under the drop tube so you can then cycle the shot into the empty paper hull also so you can get the machine back to the starting cycle of having the charge bar over at the powder side of the cycle process. And then of course pour the shot back into the shot hopper and you are ready to resume your loading.
    Here is a picture of the powder bushing adapter from BPI. and my plastic organizer for my shot and powder bushing for all my reloaders, MEC, PW and the DL.

    Bushing Converter: MEC to PW, RCBS or Hornady


    Thanks for the advice. I wouldn't dare of loading any cartridge without triple checking the powder weight. It's good to know I can still get the bushings.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  10. #30
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonMountain View Post
    jessdigs, did you ever get your primer setup squared away? I just use a short piece of spring that fits in the slot around the center primer anvil to hold the primer on the center, but compresses when you push the hull down to reprime it. Then the spring expands so you can drop another primer in.
    Yes, I did what you said and used a HF spring in the recessed circular space around the priming station

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check