I see lots of guys are using the rex c100, It says 0-400C Is 752 f hot enough ?
I see lots of guys are using the rex c100, It says 0-400C Is 752 f hot enough ?
Yes, it is! But beware, it's celsius only.
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Just be careful about the PIDs sold on ebay as some of them do not have an SSR output and some others only work on celsius (which is not a problem to me).
There's a few tutorials on youtube and other forums to convert a PID that does not have an SSR output to work with an SSR but given the fact that they all cost almost the same I would buy the right PID and avoid the extra burden.
Your PM messages won't let you accept more till you clear things out. Just tried to send you one.
Mike
Benefactor Member NRA
Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
US Army Vet
There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
John Adams 1826
Last edited by jcourson; 02-22-2018 at 05:02 PM.
Actually you can get into the parameters and kick that 400° up easily. Mine are set at 450°
Mike
Benefactor Member NRA
Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
US Army Vet
There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
John Adams 1826
I used the JLD-612 for the unit I made (it was the second PID I bought).
I seem to be the only one to use it, as every time this type of post comes up, no one else mentions the JLD-612.
I originally choose it, because of the easy to read/understand manual.
http://fhupiora.fhupiora.home.pl/JLD612Manual.pdf
In fact, while this PID can used in a hundred different applications, the last page of this manual has a "device application example" that matches our use with a high temp furnace and includes a electrical schematic and sample parameters.
Temp range is 0-1999ºF
While it's made in China, I bought it through "Light Object" (a USA seller) for $32 and it has a 6 month warranty.
(The first PID I bought was a different manufacturer and shipped from China and was defective and that $19 was basically flushed down the toilet).
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
For a couple bucks more these guys have a polished product. https://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...=index&cPath=1
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
So if i buy a PID control say for a 20# lee pot i would also need SSR and wire accordingly with pig tail 115 volt plug?
Ok i just found the answer in the sticky section thanks.
The first couple I made used the Rex C100. I was able to get into the settings to change it to F. I ordered some more and they are stuck on C only . So I switched to MyPin PIDs and have been very happy with them so far.
Used the mypins myself. And yes, you should have a SSR to work with it. Keeps low voltage where it needs to be and high were it should be...
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |