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Thread: PID Pictures

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy pressonregardless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcourson View Post
    No issues with the tinsel fairy damaging the PID screen?
    Well if the tinsel fairy were to pay a visit there is always a possibility of some lead landing on
    the face of the PID & everywhere else for that matter. Really try my best to avoid visits at all
    cost. Guess I have used mine about 6 hours give or take & so far it looks like new. Being a bottom
    pour, haven't really seen a bunch of splashing going on. Learned early on to be careful when dropping
    rejects back into the pot to do so gently.

    Quote Originally Posted by Grmps View Post
    pressonregardless that is definitely a space-saving clean look.

    No offense meant, but to me, it also kind of resembles a toilet
    You know, I think your right, it does kinda' look like one now that you mention it !!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The insulated state in which nature has placed the American continent should so far avail it that no spark of war kindled in the other quarters of the globe should be wafted across the wide oceans which separate us from them." -- Thomas Jefferson

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    woodbutcher's Avatar
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    Well,at least it`s stainless.It should be easy to clean.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
    People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
    Otto von Bismarck

  3. #23
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    So I was casting today. NOE 358-128-SWC and took a photo of the batch, then I thought of this thread and took the PID unit off the shelf and took a few photo's.

    Attachment 215019

    Attachment 215020

    Attachment 215021
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  4. #24
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    That is one well vented PID Jon

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    As it should be. I used a Oneac power conditioner case about 3x larger then Jon's made of 1/8" thick aluminum. It also acts as the heatsink for the SSR. Lots of ventilation.
    Last edited by jsizemore; 02-25-2018 at 03:12 PM.

  6. #26
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    lar45's Avatar
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    Here's a few pics of mine.











  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by lar45 View Post
    Here's a few pics of mine.
    Good job lar45.
    Looks nice and tidy.

    I see you used a thermocouple probe receptacle in the rear.
    That makes it easier to store the unit.

    On the three that I have built I chose to wire the probe directly on to the PID.
    I read that every termination point creates some error to the PID due to some voltage drop at each termination.
    With the receptacle, I count three termination points compared to the one point when connecting directly to the PID.
    How much error with three?...I don't know.
    It's just something I read on the internet. (grin)

    Well done.
    Thanks for taking the time to post your pics.

  8. #28
    Boolit Bub luis7's Avatar
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    Hi. That´s mine.
    Greetings from EspañaClick image for larger version. 

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  9. #29
    Boolit Bub jcourson's Avatar
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    Done for now. I may add a thermocouple connector to the front at some point. I have the SSR mounted directly to the aluminum case, so some testing is in order to see if I need to add a heatsink to the back or not.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  10. #30
    Boolit Master

    tward's Avatar
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    Luis7
    That is a very clean looking build! Very neat wiring job, mine looks like I used a mixer to assemble it. Tim

  11. #31
    Boolit Master

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    These are some great photos. Lots of creative approaches. I never really thought about getting a PID for my ProMelt, but now I'm starting to have a little temp control envy.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rizzo View Post
    Good job lar45.
    Looks nice and tidy.

    I see you used a thermocouple probe receptacle in the rear.
    That makes it easier to store the unit.

    On the three that I have built I chose to wire the probe directly on to the PID.
    I read that every termination point creates some error to the PID due to some voltage drop at each termination.
    With the receptacle, I count three termination points compared to the one point when connecting directly to the PID.
    How much error with three?...I don't know.
    It's just something I read on the internet. (grin)

    Well done.
    Thanks for taking the time to post your pics.
    I have heard that too. I would be interested to know if that is a concern. I am presently building two PIDs and have the plug assemblies but wondered if they might be a problem.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by retread View Post
    I have heard that too. I would be interested to know if that is a concern. I am presently building two PIDs and have the plug assemblies but wondered if they might be a problem.
    Perhaps wire the probe directly and check temp at boiling water (212 F) and then repeat with your finished PID with receptacle and terminations.
    Actually, checking it at your desired casting temp (725 F?) would be more of a test to see the difference, if any.

    I'd check it but do not use the receptacle method.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    While there may be a voltage drop at each termination point, it is going to be miniscule and for our needs irrelevant. We are not working to laboratory precision. Don't over think things.

  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Mine was built by "He who must not be named". Could easily build one myself. But he was selling them for so little over cost it made no sense to take the time to build one myself.



    And yes, the high and low alarms are set up to trigger the lights. I like having them as all it takes is a quick glance and you know if things are good. I use the PID on my smoker as well. I can see the lights from inside my kitchen while the smoker sits 40' away.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master

    Mike W1's Avatar
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    Below is from Auber Instruments description of their panel/jack product. FWIW

    "For accurate temperature measurements, thermocouple cables can’t be connected with connectors made with copper contact, unless both ends of the copper have the same temperature and identical chemical purity. This can be difficult to achieve sometimes because the temperature inside the project box is different than the temperature outside. The contact pin in each side of a connector probably has different chemical compositions because there is no requirement for them to be identical for regular applications. Using connectors specially made for thermocouples will avoid this problem. The contacts of this pair of connectors are made of the same material as the K type thermocouples. Using it will not introduce error to the measurement. This is the best quality connector on the market. The panel jack is held in location by a spring lock. The mating connector contains a cable clamp that helps to secure large diameter cables."
    Mike

    Benefactor Member NRA
    Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
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    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

  17. #37
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    you guys are well versed into electronics....if i was that talented i would built one for my lee 4-20.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    Just finished mine today. Probably wouldn't have bothered with the switch or fuse if it weren't for all you guys watching.

    SSR is mounted to the box with thermal paste. Should be a night light's worth of heat until it gets to temp, then much less.

    My Pro Melt parts should be at the post office but there is a gale blowing outside and I may just stay next to the heater, to make sure it's operating properly.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails PID2.jpg   PID1.jpg  
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  19. #39
    Boolit Bub luis7's Avatar
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    Hi this is my second hand made pid, 2ª versión.
    It´s for mould pre heating burner.Click image for larger version. 

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  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use my PID temperature controller for both casting boolits and smelting lead so I added a high temperature alarm with a bypass switch.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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GC Gas Check