Haven't tried them myself, nor do I know what style Pedersoli uses to be able to guess. Some set triggers use a sear vs. the trigger to hammer connection, and those require an reworked hammer with a fly, plus the sear, plus the trigger group. If that's the case just putting the trigger plate in wouldn't finish the job.
I'm going to a friend's house this week to look at a trigger plate with DST in it. He wants to sell them, so I'll need to figure out what they are, and see if I can find a Pedersoli drawing to determine how theirs work if I buy them.
Looking at what I have ,my thought was to bore & tap 2 small holes for some set screws. one set screw would put upward pressure on the main spring,and
the other on the hammer spring!!! Just to ease the squeeze
So far my thoughts on the barrel lock is going to be sweet for a total tare down with only a screw driver !!!
Ol Deuce
Do the Best with What you have !
Some people live and learn but I mostly just live
Hmmm? The mainspring IS the hammer spring! So not sure why you'd use two screws for the same spring? And upward pressure on the mainspring would only increase hammer pressure and make the trigger pull even heavier.
The piano wire trigger spring swap is the easiest and quickest way to reduce trigger pull from 8-10 lbs. to around 2.5-3 lbs. If the mainspring is extremely heavy, reducing spring width on it will also help reduce trigger pull.
Single trigger Rolling Blocks don't use a sear. The trigger directly contacts the notch in the hammer. There is a trigger return spring that rests on the trigger.
Here's a good view:
http://firearmshistory.blogspot.com/...ck-action.html
Picked mine up today also. It looks much better than I expected it to. I can't wait to make this thing go bang!
Some people live and learn but I mostly just live
Some people live and learn but I mostly just live
I'm understanding that .....I guess I didn't say it right on the hammer spring !! Let me try it again... I'm thinking of removing most of the tension and coming back with a adjustment screw to bring the hammer spring back to what I think I need for proper tension with out going beyond the realm of safety Does that
make sense ?????? Ol Deuce
Do the Best with What you have !
MOA, I'm surprised to read how heavy they are. Mine doesn't feel that heavy and it's just like yours, 'course I'm used to packing around Sharps, double rifles and the like and they're that heavy so maybe I'm numb or dumb.... Now I'll have to weigh it...lol!
Wolfer, the one I have was a hoot to play with. Got it going and now it's time to have some fun with it. God luck and enjoy!
"In general, the art of government is to take as much money as possible from one class of citizens and give it to another class of citizens" Voltaire'
The common virtue of capitalism is the sharing of equal opportunity. The common vice of socialism is the equal sharing of misery
NRA Benefactor 2008
For trigger return springs you can't beat these folks; http://www.rollingblockparts.com/swede.html
I put one of their springs in mine and it dropped it down to about 3lbs. Great for hunting.
Bob
GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |