Reloading EverythingLoad DataMidSouth Shooters SupplyLee Precision
RotoMetals2Inline FabricationWidenersTitan Reloading
Repackbox
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 42

Thread: How to calculate clicks for down range distances?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master wonderwolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,653
    Get comfortable with MOA and its mathmatical values. You will find like others have stated you will need to verify, Just a 1%-2% error at 100 yards can mean a missed target at 600 yards. Recently I was working with a less than ideal scope set up that had 1/2 MOA adjustments.

    I zeroed the gun at 50 yards as was recommended, all my data said I should be dead on at both 50 yards and 207 yards, Imagine my surprise when I found out I was low and to the right a whole foot when I moved to the line. After some mental gymnastics I realized that even when zeroing at 50 yards you're not giving yourself enough room for error for a reliable zero at a distance.

    The rifle which I'm still working on for another match here in less than a month will need re zeroed since I obtained correct rings. I plan on zeroing it at 200 yards first (bore site at 100) and then going to 50 yards and seeing how off I am there. The further shots count more than the close ones, the less you are off at the further distances the more precise you are closer in.
    My firearms project blog

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,454
    If you want to zero at 50 yds for distance quick and easy the army had a "thermometer" target for this. 50 was zero then 100 yds and 100 yds increments after to 1000 yds. Rhese were set up for 30 calibers.

    Get your trajectory table from a good ballistics program using accurate BCs Sectional Densities and velocities. SEt to 50 yds zero and longer ranges you want. the chart will show how high each is at 50 yds. Make a target with a bull low and a line up the center and a cross line at each yardages height. zero at fifty on the bull. come up aim at bull and adjust to the next yardlines cross keeping track of the number of clicks you came up.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    111
    I realize that MOA will not be perfect but it will get me into the general ballpark I hope to where I can fine tune at that time and mark it on the turret is what I am planning.
    Then when hunting I just need to use the range finder turn the turret to distance marked on turret and shoot again that's the plan I am thinking about.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    dk17hmr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    2,205
    I hope it works out for you but don't be surprised when your known data in the summer doesn't match results in the field in the fall.
    Doug
    .................................................. ........................................
    Sticks and stones may break my bones but hollow points expand on impact.

    Taxidermists are cheaper than surgeons....keep shooting

    ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Some people measure success in Minutes of Angle

  5. #25
    Boolit Master wonderwolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,653
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    If you want to zero at 50 yds for distance quick and easy the army had a "thermometer" target for this. 50 was zero then 100 yds and 100 yds increments after to 1000 yds. Rhese were set up for 30 calibers.

    Get your trajectory table from a good ballistics program using accurate BCs Sectional Densities and velocities. SEt to 50 yds zero and longer ranges you want. the chart will show how high each is at 50 yds. Make a target with a bull low and a line up the center and a cross line at each yardages height. zero at fifty on the bull. come up aim at bull and adjust to the next yardlines cross keeping track of the number of clicks you came up.
    I've done this before when setting up a zero for a 1000 yard iron sight gun for camp perry, if your bullet speed is accurate it works REALLY well......that being said the chrono I've used the past few months (borrowed) must be off because the holes in paper do not agree with where the math says they should be.
    My firearms project blog

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    111
    Ah yes I do want to get a chrono very soon as I am just **** curious about what my cast reloads will be doing and their not that bad a price for what they are..

    I doubt I will be doing much hunting at 1000 yards just want to do it so I have the knowledge on how to do it shooting at paper.
    I think my ranges max for hunting will be 500 yards that is if I can even find those kind of open spaces to hunt...

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    111
    Quote Originally Posted by dk17hmr View Post
    I hope it works out for you but don't be surprised when your known data in the summer doesn't match results in the field in the fall.
    OH yes I do understand I will be doing testing in fall conditions and at altitude just for my own information on how things work out and change..

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Cap'n Morgan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    1,458
    Not wanting to hijack the thread, but this is one way to make an adjustable turret:

    I believe things should be as simple as possible when the going gets tough and the hunting fever sets in. I'm not good at counting clicks under stress, so I made this turret for my .270 with a Swarovski scope. The turret replaces the original turret cover (which holds the illumination unit for the cross hairs) and can be switched without changing zero. The turret is blocked from making more than one turn - that way I can turn it down to the stop and the zero will be set to 100 meters. Max range is 450 meters before hitting the stop in the other direction - more range than I'll ever need for hunting. The turret is calibrated for my favorite hunting load of which I only have one - Again, keep things simple!



    The small screw holds the upper part of the turret in place and act as a stop and zero-marker at the same time. Once the bottom part has been screwed on the scope, the top part is pushed down, engaging the splines on the scope's adjustment knob (while making sure the setting matches the scope's). The screw is then tightened and you can now dial-a-range, nice eh?
    Two o-rings provide a slight friction between top & bottom part and seals the unit at the same time.

    Cap'n Morgan

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    111
    Quote Originally Posted by UKShootist View Post
    If you are blessed with owning an Android mobile phone then I strongly recommend an app named Strelok. I have it and I think it's one of the best aids to shooting you can get at the price, which is free for the basic version, and very little for the slightly more advanced one. I zero my rifles at 110 yards but shoot at longer ranges at events. Every time Strelok has got me on the paper and usually in the black on the first shot. It's also fairly easy to use.
    After taking a close look at things and how long it really does take to pull out the phone and look at info it is very doable and very versatile it will give fast shooting solutions at what ever distance or at least as far as my range finder will do.
    And it will save me the time and energy to mark my turrets for all the different bullet selections I will be using and making a mess of my turret markings

    I did get my turret marking all figured out it has 60 clicks for one revolution and I have 120 clicks to play with so I get 2 revolutions or 120 clicks to play with took me a bit to lay it out on paper and print it out but I printed out a few extra as backup and the new turret that I will be putting on is 1" and I am happy with the setup I also made a printout for windage I have never played with windage before so more stuff for me to learn and try out.

    Thanks to all that are helping me out sometimes advice from others is hard to take from this hardhead but in time I see it guys and it sinks in...

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    111
    Quote Originally Posted by Cap'n Morgan View Post
    Not wanting to hijack the thread, but this is one way to make an adjustable turret:

    I believe things should be as simple as possible when the going gets tough and the hunting fever sets in. I'm not good at counting clicks under stress, so I made this turret for my .270 with a Swarovski scope. The turret replaces the original turret cover (which holds the illumination unit for the cross hairs) and can be switched without changing zero. The turret is blocked from making more than one turn - that way I can turn it down to the stop and the zero will be set to 100 meters. Max range is 450 meters before hitting the stop in the other direction - more range than I'll ever need for hunting. The turret is calibrated for my favorite hunting load of which I only have one - Again, keep things simple!



    The small screw holds the upper part of the turret in place and act as a stop and zero-marker at the same time. Once the bottom part has been screwed on the scope, the top part is pushed down, engaging the splines on the scope's adjustment knob (while making sure the setting matches the scope's). The screw is then tightened and you can now dial-a-range, nice eh?
    Two o-rings provide a slight friction between top & bottom part and seals the unit at the same time.

    Ya I looked online for after market turrets I could put on but no luck not that big a deal gave me something to do today making my own custom printed bands for the new turrets I am going to hot glue on was going to go with epoxy but the hot glue I can adjust if needed and I will be able to remove the turret in the future if needed..

  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    111
    I can see now that I will need 20 or 30 MOA angled scope mount if I want to get out to 1000 yards I will have to see if I can find one that fits my scope setup right now I can get to 800 yards max good enough really for what I want to do....

    This has been an interesting endeavor for me I have the info now for when I really want to build a custom long range rifle and I will have the skills to go with it.

    The rifle I am using is nothing special at all its just one I like to hunt with I am comfortable with it in the bush and just want to upgrade my skills.

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master Artful's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Valley of the SUNs, AZ
    Posts
    9,254
    You can put a shim under your existing scope mount base to elevate if you can't find a mount - if you do buy a mount I recommend a one pcs.
    je suis charlie

    It is better to live one day as a LION than a dozen days as a Sheep.

    Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
    "The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,454
    For several years I helped out the night before the Bob Wright memorial put on by ORPA at Camp Perry. My job or help consisted of working with the new shooters. I had my laptop plugged in and the sierra infinity program up and running. If they came to me I crunched the numbers for them as to velocity, temp, sight height, BC, SD and the other information. It only took a few minutes to do. I only ask that they caught me there the next day and let me know where their first shot was at. If given good numbers as to velocity sight height zero range and a good zero and bc Sierras program usually put them inside the 9 ring. A lot of times inside the 10 ring. Fed good accurate numbers these programs get you very close, I wouldn't depend on them for live game with out test firing at distance or on a thermometer target though.

    I shot the M1A/M14 to 1000 yds in 7.62 X 51 / 308, with 175 grn sierras and the NM rear sight had plenty of elevation. My 243 with 105 JLK VLDS wouldn't zero at 200 with a 20 min base. But the reticle was much closer to optic center at 600 and 1000 yds.

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,877
    Personally I don't mess with the scope once it's properly zeroed; If you change the clicks and get distracted or forget you set it for 400 yards or whatever you can end up missing a shot, so I learned long ago to do the windage and holdover in my head, it's very doable and works pretty well. Just remember (if you have a zoom scope) to compensate for the zoom. It helps to shoot that particular rifle a LOT, of course

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Western Colorado
    Posts
    663
    I gave up counting clicks when I learned how to use a mil-dot scope. I have shot the dots and know where to hold for what ever distance .

  16. #36
    Banned
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    340
    first of all, make you a rifle data book.. put into this data book the range corrections for your rifle and particular ammo combination. also write into this book the performance of your rifle/ammo combination per different shooting conditions. write into this data book the calculations needed to correct range,wind, angled shot, etc. note the direction of the light also because that can heave a bearing on your POI. you will not believe how many people will start cussing the rifle because their POI changes when the direction of the light changes because they do not know what is going on or how to compensate. also get you a cheek piece or make one. you might not think it would make any difference but a differentiation of cheek weld can move that POI over a foot depending on the range you are shooting. also you can do like a real sniper data book and go around measuring every day things and writing down the dimensions in the back of your book for more accurate ranging. this can be road signs, milk jugs, 55gal drums, car rims per particular make and model vehicle, etc. be as detailed as you can be. obviously if your not in a tactical situation or are never planning on using your rifle for tactical purposes this step can be skipped.

    but as for calculations.. one good one to know how far your POI moves per click value is Estimated range divided by 100 multiplied by the number of clicks on the turret will give you the amount of movement per click at that range. so at 500Yards you would end up with something like this. 500 divided by 100 = 5... 5 multiplied by .75 MOA (3 clicks on the turret for a 1/4 MOA scope) = 3.75 MOA movement of the POI at 500Yards..

    another good one is the ranging for your scope. if you have a mill-dot scope then. size of target in yards multiplied by 1000 divided by mills read = range. or for smaller objects. size of target in inches multiplied by 27.8 divided by mills read = range.

    now if your a lazy bugger you can skip most of everything and get what is called a Milldot Master http://8541tactical.com/mildotmaster.php and then all you would need to know would be the range, bullet drop, and environmental conditions. it is a slide rule calculator that does the adjustment calculations for you.
    Last edited by Mauser 98K; 02-25-2018 at 01:51 AM.

  17. #37
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    111
    I did find and printed out a few pages worth for my personal Rifle Data book data logging as well as printed out reloading logs lots of great info online once you know what your looking for.
    Unfortunately I do not have a mill dot scope but I may upgrade the scope along with a 20 or 30 MOA mount if I end up really enjoying this part of our sport enough to do it or build up a new rifle just for long distance shooting I am reading that short barrels are more accurate less barrel acoustics/vibration or some such thing we are allowed short barrels here if made from the factory. I don't know about going to a more powerful round as I really did not like the recoil of a 7mm mag I once owned although one rifle does pull my interest now the Alaskan 50 I am gathering what info I can on this one along with what reloading and casting dies and molds are out their and if they are available to me here in Canada but think we have a ban on 50 cal and above here but one can dream the dream right that they cant take away from us...

  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,454
    Look at the 243 Winchester with a 1-7 twist barrel also. The long VLDs Shot very well for me at 1000yds with very light recoil. For awhile here the "hot" caliber for 1000yd position shooting was the 6.5 X 284 did very good and lighter recoil than the big magnums.
    In my 243 I shot 105 jlks, 107 sierras, and 107 grn starke flat base, Also 105 and 115 grn bergers.

  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    6,314
    now if your a lazy bugger you can skip most of everything and get what is called a Milldot Master http://8541tactical.com/mildotmaster.php and then all you would need to know would be the range, bullet drop, and environmental conditions. it is a slide rule calculator that does the adjustment calculations for you
    Mauser: Thanks for the post with the Milldot Link. This 'cheat sheet' will be better than cranking and calculating. One of my scope mounted rifles is a 300 Win Mag with a Hi-Lux M-1000 'Camputer' that has a Mill-Dot reticle. It will used to shoot known size steel silhouettes at 200 to 500 meters and known size steel silhouettes from 700 to 1000yds. Have the trajectory tables for the reloads so distance drops are known. The Milldot Master is going to be a great aid for faster group adjustments. Again - Thanks - I just ordered one
    Regards
    John

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    5,268
    If you have a good rest, good rifle and good load, you don’t need to calculate, just count.



Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check