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Thread: Another MP-Molds 500 S&W Magnum Re-Order Group Buy - MiHec 502 385 HP GC

  1. #61
    Boolit Buddy
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    That was indeed a very fast run. Now I have two molds in the mail at once!

  2. #62
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    There is no need to post that you paid it not. Please refrain from those posts.
    If you didn't get an invoice, and should have, please PM me immefiately.


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  3. #63
    Boolit Bub

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    I know I'm the noob here, but I'm pretty excited about getting in on this buy, and finally getting a high quality mold! I have several Lee, a few Lyman, and one NOE.

  4. #64
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    The Lyman and NOE molds are very good. I have many. However, these MP-Molds are amazing!! Especially the Cramer style molds, with interchangeable hollow point inserts. They are high precision and durable, and will last (when properly taken care of) many lifetimes. You'll need a set of handles. The Lee 6 cavity handles work fine with these molds, but if you want the true experience, get a set of Miha's handles.

    I'm doing a local FREE casting seminar here in the Daytona area, sometime before the heat really sets in. I'll try to video that seminar as best I can, and will post the results here (as YouTube links) in an appropriate place. I will focus and concentrate on the proper ways to use these brass MP-Molds Cramer style molds. These molds do run a bit different than iron or aluminum molds. However, a few tricks and tips, and you'll soon learn to love them as much as the rest of us do.

    Paid invoices are already shipped, and as molds srtart arriving, please share pictures of these molds and the boolits they produce.

    Quote Originally Posted by RedStar Raider View Post
    I know I'm the noob here, but I'm pretty excited about getting in on this buy, and finally getting a high quality mold! I have several Lee, a few Lyman, and one NOE.


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  5. #65
    Boolit Bub

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    Duke, I look forward to the video you put out. Do you have any specific tips to go along with this MP Mold?

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedStar Raider View Post
    Duke, I look forward to the video you put out. Do you have any specific tips to go along with this MP Mold?
    I wrote the following to go along with the 700 grain mold that I recently did. Most of it applies to all of the brass molds, although you will see the wording that specifically applies to the 700 grains of lead:
    Tips for using this mold:

    1) Clean this mold completely before use to remove machining oils which will otherwise cause wrinkles when the oils burn off.
    2) I would run the mold halves through at least two (and three would be better) 400+ degree (Farenheit) heat cycles in the oven to "normalize" the brass after machining. Best done with the two mold halves wired together so that the alignment pins assist with the normalizing process. Allow to air cool to room temperature between cycles. I started doing this for aluminum molds, and have continued the normalizing with machined brass molds. Miha's work is amazing, and the molds seem to like the break in cycling.
    3) There's a LOT of brass here. Either use a hot plate, or dip the corner of the mold into the lead FOR A LONG TIME to allow it to come up to proper operating temperature.
    4) You will likely NOT have much success with this mold if you try to get it up to running temperature by filling cavities over and over and over again. The mold needs to get up to a HOT temperature to fill properly for these big bullets, especially when running the hollow point inserts.
    5) You will find that you need to start off with the alloy temperature a bit on the hot side, and then adjust downward as the mold and the alloy find the mutual perfect place.
    6) When the mold and the alloy are at the perfect temperatures, I am easily able to open the sprue plate with a leather gloved hand (no banging on the sprue plate!)
    7) 10 bullets is a pound of lead, so in my mind adding the sprue cut offs immediately back into the pot is a big deal. I drop the cut sprues into my gloved hand, and slip them into the pot for re-melting. This also lessens the heat shock that putting otherwise room temperature sprues into the pot would cause.
    8) These bullets are big and dense. The guys who got two molds were the ones wearing the wise and smart caps! It takes a long time for the centers of these big boolits to solidify. So, be patient. While one mold is setting up, you can be pouring the other one. Don't try to open the molds too soon, you will be ripping and tearing the edges of the hollow points. If you only have one mold, be patient with the set up time. Cut the sprues early though, while everything is still sizzling.
    9) I use one of my mold tappers to gently (very light taps...) tap on the pivot screw for the mold handles to create a vibration that eases the mold halves away from the boolits. The boolits should gently fall out with a large thud. I place the mold down on the landing area while doing this tapping. The molds are heavy, and the filled cavities make them even more so.
    10) For that reason, use a few cotton or linen cloths in the landing zone for the falling boolits. The boolits are heavy and still kind of soft when you ease them out of the mold halves. You don't want them banging into your catching area or into each other. And, they will take a long time to cool to room temperature. I don't like water cooling these boolits. Too much opportunity for boolit on boolit damage.
    11) If you have all your temperatures right, you should get nice shiny boolits without having to bang the heck out of the molds. If you treat these molds properly, they will make T-Rex bullets for hundreds of years. Maybe millions.
    12) If you are winging it like I used to do, a mixture of 50% wheel weights, and 50% range lead or pure lead is just about right for these boolits. Lyman #2 works well. Add some 60/40 solder if you need to for filling the edges of the hollow points, but don't go crazy on the tin. No need.
    13) There is also no need for "smoking the molds"... These are high quality molds. They should be ready to run, and will drop boolits well without any butane smoke.


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  7. #67
    Boolit Bub

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    Duke, that's very cool of you to provide this info. I recently got a Noe brass HP mold that is giving me issues, and you've given me somethings to try with it. I have some Lee molds that work very well, and some that don't. A couple of Lyman's that work well. I read a lot of comments about these molds, so I'm pretty stoked to get some. I'm on 3 or 4 buys right now, and have my eyes on another one or two. I do appreciate you sharing information, especially the break-in procedure. I keep checking back to see if anyone has received theirs yet.



    .

  8. #68
    Boolit Buddy
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    Another gorgeous mold. This is three in a week, I can't use them as fast as miha cuts them!

  9. #69
    Boolit Buddy
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    Got mine today.

  10. #70
    Boolit Bub

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    I got the most awesome mold today!!! What a work of art!!!

  11. #71
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    Mine also arrived today. Thanks, Miha, for another amazing mold.


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  12. #72
    Miha, you are amazing!!
    Last edited by Steve390Gold; 06-08-2018 at 11:31 PM.

  13. #73
    Boolit Buddy
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    Any results? This came in a string of several molds and due to the very hot weather I haven't had a chance to use it yet.

  14. #74
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    HEAT???
    It's 90+ here every day.
    Even though I cast in a somewhat cooler place than outdoors, I have also put off using this new mold.

    My ongoing chemo drugs are knocking the snot out of me on these hot days. I can barely drag myself out of the recliner to get into bed at night. Slept in the recliner more than a few times. It really sucks getting old and getting Multiple Myeloma, the rarest of the cancers.

    So, if others have had some opportunity to run this mold, some eye candy would be appreciated. It will also serve to post as useful images the next time this mold gets a group buy. My hope is to do the whole series of .500 S&W Magnum molds once a year. Don't miss out on the new pointy 500 mag mold in DISCUSSION.


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check