Was looking at saddle mounts. Even in that one style there are aluminum and composite. With some reviews really harsh on the cheapness of the plastic/composit material. On the other hand I'm not keen on putting aluminum parts on a steel firearm. Prices are also a pretty wide spread.
Anyone have a suggestion based on own experience for a decent mount for a Simmons Pro Diamond fixed 4x scope?
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
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Mossberg 500s have aluminum action housings, not steel....at least the two that I own. I always used a cantilever scope mount barrel or plain open sights for slug gun use.
Is this for deer hunting or turkey? IF this is for deer hunting I would try to get the cantilever barrel that way when you remove the barrel point of aim is the same when reinstalled. Another option would be is to have the receiver drilled and tapped. I had a Rem 870 and put a saddle mount on it and didn't take it off after season and rust formed and pitted the frame, that was my fault. If you go with a saddle mount the bolts cannot be supper tight as it crimps the frame and hinders the slide action.
Mossberg receiver is aluminum, go with the al. mount . I've used both a single side mount and the two sided one, the two side is stronger but both worked fine. Don't worry about rust or corrosion I gave a Mossberg with the mount on it to my son that scope hase been on there for about 20 years and no problems yet.
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I have extensive experience with mounting scopes on shot guns. As a whole the saddle mounts are
junk. Moss 500 is a easy one to D&T. I use a Weaver one piece base for Rem 742/760 rifle. The
Moss recievers drill & tap easy. I use 6x32 tap instead of the 6x48 that you would normally use.
The coarser thread is better in Alumilum recievers. If you have a drill press it is a easy do it your
self job. The flat sides of pump guns makes it easy to find center of action. D&T back mount screw
hole, then you can attach base and line front of base up with center and used punch to mark the
other 3 screws through the holes in scope base. A little Loc Tite on base screws and you will have
no trouble and end up with good solid mount with the least expense.
I have the cantilever and agree that is the best. Receiver is next and the side saddle the worst.
4x is actually high power for a 500. I have an old Korea made Simmons, an intermediate eye relief 2.5x and love the wide field of view and quick target acquisition.
I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
Do you trust your casting thermometer?
A few musings.
am with drm drill tap top of reciever for a base mt thats the way the deer gun came from mossberg
Well I feel a little sheepish. The housing is aluminum as a quick check with a magnet confirmed. Was planning on a cantilever barrel but found a used rifled barrel for less than $100 that was in very good shape. I just happened to have enough cash and that was that. Might have been smarter to have waited but... water over the dam.Originally Posted by Rick Hodges
It does have the flip up notch and bead site. I can't really see a bulls eye at 50 yards. Shooting a coke can is at around that distance also known as aiming for the middle of the fuzzy read spot. It's not totally fuzzy but not very sharp either. Might be worth spending some time seeing how that open site works.
Being as this is an older 500A it is not pre-drilled for a scope rail. It sounds like some advocate drilling and tapping for one of these https://www.amazon.com/UTG-Mossberg-...f=sr_1_fkmr0_2 Looks like it would be a nice solid install, the rails seem to hang off the back a bit but this style have very few negative reviews. I'm not even sure having a gunsmith do the drilling and tapping would prove that expensive. However the local one is who suggested a saddle mount.
The saddle style offers the potential to remove and go back to the IC barrel without any extra hardware sitting on top. Might even be able to leave the scope on the saddle when removed. Have read reports of people over tightening the rear bolt and binding the action up. Firmly snugged down and locktite to hold rather than tighten for friction hold seems to be what is required. So how does one get the locktite loose?
https://www.amazon.com/Weaver-No-Gun...dp/B00162QKT6/
I used to shoot a slug gun when I was a young man, enjoyed it. Decided I was going to cast slug and try to do it with my own fixings. Mostly just for fun. More fun if I hit where I'm aiming, aiming works better through some optics. A couple of the kids or one grandkid might put it to use for deer. Grandkid has his heart set on first deer being with bow or cross bow but a slug gun at his other grandpa's farm would prove productive once he scratches his broadhead itch. I also plan to do some #1 buckshot casting and loading.
Thanks for all the good information and food for thought.
Last edited by RogerDat; 02-17-2018 at 09:38 AM.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
"So how does one get the locktite loose? "
Heat will soften loc-tite. Either a heat gun or a pencil soldering iron applied to the screw head.
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I may be discharged and retired but I'm sure I did not renounce the oath that I solemnly swore!
Have done that before with bigger items and a propane torch. Didn't know it would work with that small amount of heat. I'm always finding new uses for the industrial size blow dryer wife has hanging in the bathroom.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
Locktite blue is what to use http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_l...r-Blue-242.htm
I would put the "Hang" over the front of the receiver over the barrel. Just saying.
Wondered if that would work. It's a fairly small amount. I even thought it might not hurt to grind a bit off and smooth with a file. Doubt the finish is anything other than black paint.
This receiver has a sight groove approx. 1/4 inch wide with micro grooves in it. I imagine find the middle one of those and it's probably middle of receiver line for drilling holes. Or at worst whichever groove is at center line will provide a straight line for prick punch of screw locations for drilling.
Wonder if I could get the original flush fitting screws from Mossberg to put in the holes if I took the rail off.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
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