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Thread: Steel Mold Storage

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Steel Mold Storage

    What are people doing to store steel molds for both long term and short term storage?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master waco's Avatar
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    After I cast with mine I give them a light coat of Fluid Film. The stuff sticks like crazy and does not wear off or dissipate over time.
    https://www.fluid-film.com/products/
    You can pick it up at Walmart.
    The fear of the Lord is the beginning of knowledge: but fools despise wisdom and instruction.
    Proverbs 1:7

  3. #3
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    Use a little oil and gallon ziplock bags. Seems like they never stay in there long and I’m casting with them again.

  4. #4
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    Eezox all over mold and placed in ammo can with desiccant. I store molds in an unheated building year round and some molds I do not see for years. I have had no problems.

    When I have a mold I will use over the course of a few days, I let it cool and then place it (with handle still attached) in a length of 4" PVC pipe with end caps on it for short term storage. I have desiccant in there as well.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk1 View Post
    Use a little oil and gallon ziplock bags. Seems like they never stay in there long and Iím casting with them again.
    Are you putting oil in the mold cavity? If so, how are you removing it prior to casting?

  6. #6
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    after coating them with wd40 or something similar,put in a ziplock bag,then stash in a sealed ammo can.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by stinjie View Post
    after coating them with wd40 or something similar,put in a ziplock bag,then stash in a sealed ammo can.
    So how do you get the mold free of oil so you can start casting again? That always seems to be an issue with mine.

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
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    I store mine in plastic containers with pieces of VCI paper. Will wipe down the outside of the mold with gun oil as well. I'd guess any film that gets inside the cavities will burn off quickly while casting.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Haines View Post
    So how do you get the mold free of oil so you can start casting again? That always seems to be an issue with mine.
    I spray mine with choke and carburetor cleaner.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Short term - a little bit of Kroil applied with a Q-tip.
    Long term - RIG; usually applied while the mold is still warm. A little dab on the spure plate over each cavity. That melts the grease and it runs into the cavities, coating everything. Then the outside surfaces are lightly coated. After the mold cools, it goes back into its box.

    When returned to service the mold is degreased with alcohol followed by Acetone.

    Never had a problem with rust using those methods.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    I use Vasoline. A quick wash with dish soap and a fingernail brush under warm tap water will have it oil free in no time.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Rcmaveric's Avatar
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    Put them in a sealed wooden box that has a gasket with desiccant. I live in Florida and haven't had any corrosion issues. No coatings or anything. I can pull it out and cast with it any time. I want to buy some VCI for it. Before i stored them with desiccant my molds would start to corrode/tarnish within a few weeks.
    "Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
    ~Theodore Roosevelt~

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Likewise or brakleen. Whatever removes oils and grime that I have in my shop.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master


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    I wipe the mould off with a clean cloth and wrap it in VCI paper. Then I put it in a plastic box to protect it from dings and then it goes into an large box with a good seal. I've never coated a mould with any kind of preservative and I've never had rust on a mould.
    Chuck

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    I spray mine with whatever type of gun oil that I'm using at the time, wrap in in an oily rag and put it in the MTM dry box that I use. I recently switched from an ammo can to the dry box because of size. To degrease, I spray it with whatever form of degreaser that I have on the bench and brush the cavities and vent lines with a soft brush. This will usually be break cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. I do this in a large well vented area.

  16. #16
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    I use the little desiccant items that come in prescription drug containers. Either the little paper envelopes or plastic capsules. Our son is a pharmacist and occasionally will send me a gallon jug or two. I use them in all containers that I keep molds in, even brass or aluminum since the sprue plates are steel. I keep a bunch in a can in both safes. All are replaced about every 6 months. Probably overkill since my shop is both heated and air conditioned.

    I don't oil my molds
    John
    W.TN

  17. #17
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    After moulds have cooled I coat all surfaces with Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant , put them back in factory box they came in and boxes go into a steel G.I. ammo can or plastic tool box.
    The Dry Lube has kept all rust at bay and does not need to be removed...it doesn't contaminate the cavities.
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
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GC Gas Check