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Thread: Steel Mold Storage

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

    Rcmaveric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hermans View Post
    I do exactly the same, no oil/coatings of any kind, just an air tight container with some silica desiccant which I revive once a year in the wife's microwave.
    I also live in a humid area, and I have had no problems doing it this way. When I want to cast, just take the mold out of the box, fit the handles, preheat and cast away!
    Funny, because thats how we revive the dessicant at work for the radar systems. Just nuke it.

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  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy McFred's Avatar
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    I live in the desert with low/no humidity. I put moulds back on the shelf when I'm done. Nothing else.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    The molds get stored in a GI ammo can with a good dose of VPI crystals .

    Jack
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    I spray them with WD40, put them into a plastic shopping bag, roll them tightly and tape them shut with masking tape. I mark the tape with what the mould is.
    I store them in Tupper Ware snap lid containers. Holds maybe six or so four cavity moulds per container. The containers are marked with what is inside them.
    Cleaning is simple - spray with brake cleaner, wipe them off then do it again and QTip the cavities.
    I own almost all Hensley & Gibbs moulds so I REALLY take care of them.
    I usually go through all them once a year and redo them all just to make sure. Hey....winters are long and cold here in New Hampshire. What's a poor boy to do?
    Never a problem in over 40 years of casting.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master D Crockett's Avatar
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    I take mine and dip them in Ed's red put them in a zip lock bag when I want to use them I just spray them down with carb or break cleaner works like a charm D Crockett

  6. #26
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    I wrap mine with papertowels sprayed with WD40....then they get put into ziploc bags.

    redhawk

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  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Crockett View Post
    I take mine and dip them in Ed's red put them in a zip lock bag when I want to use them I just spray them down with carb or break cleaner works like a charm D Crockett
    Yep, got a can of Gunscrubber to spray off the Barricade. I have only one cast iron mold but it throws nice boolits and I want to pass it on to one of my sons.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I live in humid central. When done using them, I coat them in eezox, corrosion-X, fluid film for longer storage or PB Blaster, Ed's Red for short term storage. All my methods require a tedious cleaning prior to use, but hey, they stay in very good shape with no rust damage.

  9. #29
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    I'll spray them with RemOil if I'm not going to use them for a while. It doesn't gum up like WD40 and burns out of the cavities quickly.
    Tom
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  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Stanley View Post
    The molds get stored in a GI ammo can with a good dose of VPI crystals .

    Jack
    +1 I live near the ocean and found when I first got here that my old desert climate inattention would result in rust in days. I have a large 20 mm can that works great.
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  11. #31
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    I can say that Gun Scrubber spray worked perfectly to clean the Barricade off my cast iron mold. Took all of 30 seconds and I did not have one wrinkled boolit. Both of those products are made by Birchwood Casey and available at Malwart. The Barricade spray is a phenomenal wax based rust preventer.
    Last edited by Cosmic_Charlie; 03-16-2018 at 05:56 AM.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by FISH4BUGS View Post
    I spray them with WD40, put them into a plastic shopping bag, roll them tightly and tape them shut with masking tape. I mark the tape with what the mould is.
    I store them in Tupper Ware snap lid containers. Holds maybe six or so four cavity moulds per container. The containers are marked with what is inside them.
    Cleaning is simple - spray with brake cleaner, wipe them off then do it again and QTip the cavities.
    I own almost all Hensley & Gibbs moulds so I REALLY take care of them.
    I usually go through all them once a year and redo them all just to make sure. Hey....winters are long and cold here in New Hampshire. What's a poor boy to do?
    Never a problem in over 40 years of casting.
    I do the same.

  13. #33
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    I oil inside and outside of cavities with my Marsh brush and just heat the mold and burn the oil out of them when I start casting. The first few are wrinkly, but after a few cycles they are dropping perfect bullets then.
    You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.

  14. #34
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    Short term, gear oil in a zip lock bag wrapped with rubber bands will keep the mold ready for use after a good cleaning.

    As far as long term meaning years I give it a good coating of wheel bearing grease wrap it in some heavy (6 mil) clear plastic then put it in a vacuum seal bag and seal it. The wrap in 6 mill plastic keeps the sharp edged from cutting through the vacuum bag. The mold is protected from the elements almost indefinitely as I have old molds stored like this for more than 20 years.

  15. #35
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    I live in northern Arizona, it's normally very dry here. I used to oil them before putting them away, but now I just put them back in the plastic boxes they came in. No rust ever. If I lived in a humid climate I would definitely spray them with Rem Oil or something similar.

  16. #36
    Boolit Bub
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    After thoroughly cleaning the mold of all carbon from smoking them I coat them with a rust preventitive
    and then wrapped them in a plastic baggie. They are then stored. I have never had to clean any rust, nor did any form on them while
    in storage.

  17. #37
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    +1 on what Buckshot said. It depends on where you live and the climate as to how thorough you need to be.

    Dry Climates little to no care needed

    super damp climates coat in oil (I like Kroil) wrap in VCI paper and store in a plastic organizer.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check