I would suggest that one uses a drill press if possible with the collator wheel clamped down and something used as a lube. Moderate to low speed probably so that you don't burn the plastic would be a smart move also.
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I would suggest that one uses a drill press if possible with the collator wheel clamped down and something used as a lube. Moderate to low speed probably so that you don't burn the plastic would be a smart move also.
Have you tried the cheaper 370 motor that is available from ebay or Amazon? I was thinking that maybe a template so one could drill the MBF base might be something useful and it would allow one to use a different motor if they needed to. Possibly a center piece to go over the 370's motor shaft too so that the same collator wheel could be used on both with a tight fit.Originally Posted by AmmoMike83
The reason I mentioned this is that you can buy (3) 370 motors for the cost of one MBF motor.
honestly, the 370 motor is a mess. The gears break very quickly. The second thing is, that a PRINTED center piece for the shaft isn't durable. I tested that with no success. It broke, several times. The STL file is just a assistance to make a piece out of brass on a lathe.
That is good to know. I have to try mine since I have had it for a few years. If I can get some mill and lathe time at my friends I will make a template with a center piece so I can drill my collator to try the 370 motor.
Save that time and money and buy a MBF motor.
Joe, I guess your glad now you followed my lead. Ha
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Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Ya but... I already have one. The old timer in me needs to try it just cause I have it. Its kinda like playing with tube audio. I may have an idea how something will sound but I have to hear it for myself.
Charles, I have to listen to you simply because you are like jmorris and can make something from nothing.
Something tells me I'm going to be super happy when I get the new collator wheels and plates. I still have to try the 370 motor simply because its there looking at me taunting me saying try me. Actually I have a circuit in mind that may allow one to use it and not worry about breaking the gears and I need to try it. I think my torque sensing circuit may allow the motor to be of some use after all.
I am definitely not a JMorris.
He really can make something from nothing.
I need a little bit of something then I can make it into something great.
I tried to change filament and it got stuck in the tube (will explain later). Long story short had to order a $1 part and get the printer working again.
Hope to make the v3 plates today but I have to make something for JMorris. Well for the printer he ordered.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Your a close 2nd then in my book.
If someone has an idea for a friction clutch or current limiter, working with the bullet feeder, please let me know.
Jmorris had a friction limiter idea that he left a joint loose enough to work, but slip when it stalls.
I had the thought of a current limiting fuse or circuit breaker too. It senses the power being used and when it spikes it shuts off, like a VFD has.
The MBF power supply comes with a protection built in this is from their web site “It includes a power surge protection, preventing more than 800mA from being supplied, even if the motor stalls. This prevents damage to the motor and the power supply, and eliminates the need for a fuse.Weight: 0.240Kg
Manufacturer: Double-Alpha Academy”
https://www.doublealpha.biz/mr-bulle...r-power-supply
That's an easier way of doing it, get a current limiting power supply. The only issue is that if it was to stall, it would eventually burn the motor up, but mostly you are there and will see/hear it stall then clear the blockage. The price on the MBF power supply seems pretty good to me.
Lot of boards like this on ebay to limit current and turn off https://www.ebay.com/itm/Factory-0-3...QAAOSwjodaCAnC
I have used split set collars as clutches but from the original KISS collators to the current MBF, all have been a roll pin, no clutch.
Post #165 and 166 will both work. Thanks Mary. I couldn't build one as cheap as that ebay link. That is what I had in mind for mine.
The MBF power supply with limiting is probably the best solution.
Last edited by 6bg6ga; 03-02-2018 at 08:05 AM.
But if you want to use light barrier or proximity sensor you will need another power supply, cause the MBF motor needs 0.7 Amps. If the MBF power supply shuts down @0.8, there is no room for something else, or am I wrong?
Actually I think there is room enough on the power supply. I haven't checked the current requirements on the different types of sensors one could incorporate into the design but there is 100mA left. I think it would be really easy to use a photo sensor or proximity and still have some head room. Worst case you could run the control off a small battery pack that would last for months. One could always use a simple micro switch if you had to.
Proximity switch generally 10mA current draw.
If it were me I would use an independent power supply since I like LED's and relays and generally anything I can incorporate to confuse the hell out of someone.I'm lucky enough to have a box full of wall wart power supplies.
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