Looks good. I would increase the angle of the feeder. There will be less tendency for brass to ride up to the top near the drop hole that shouldn't be there. You really want the brass that is not in a slot to fall back to the bottom before it makes it up that far.
I need to add a observation with case feeding.
Using it for depriming brass before cleaning, the crud on the brass gets under the plate and you can hear the motor start to strain just a tiny tiny bit. You may be able to hear it in the video. So as the crud builds up on the bottom of the bowl, the plate will rub on the crud. I solved the issue by placing a thin washer between the plate and the bowl. Really no way to add it in the print. Heck, you could even print a thin washer.
I deprimed about 500 pieces of dirty brass and it started building up fast. I’ll try and post a pic of the bottom of the plate to show.
Originally Posted by TylerR
Good call, thank you
Currently at 34%. I think I am 2 days 6 hrs into the print.
It should go faster as I am on the walls
About a inch of wall done
Just noticed that this section lifted off the build plate.
Guess I will have to heat it up and bend it back into shape and smooth the top surface
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Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
I’d like to find a way to eliminate the spring for brass feeding. Got some more Lee tubes on the way
Wow....sorry to hear that! I had my first base attempt do that after only 3 layers......Brand new at it, I stopped the print and went searching the net for answers. But you've got lots of time invested already, so I see why you'd not want to stop. Cause, on mine, was that I didn't wash the plate after the last print with strong Isopropyl alcohol. Never made that mistake again, and it's never reoccurred. Thank goodness, because I wouldn't have a clue what else to do.
You're using the tried and true blue tape system, and I know nothing about that. Creality's treated glass was on mine, so it's apples and oranges. Mine was ruined I had no choice but to start over.....will be interested to see how you fix it....most likely I will yet need that skill.
Late to dinner on this one, but +1 for Hatch's comments. I demand BB on all my straight-wall cases. Huge time-save on the presses and no diminished performance.
I use this on my Ender 5. Took some 150 grit sandpaper and roughed up the surface. First layer adhesion is amazing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Holysmokes! I just noticed that you are in Macomb.... I'm North Oakland, I've printed 10K faceshields during the last 5 months for the medical industry, and Hatch was the one that got me into this "hobby" I'm really glad to see others participating. I will PM you next, I've got 3 CR-10's and looking for new projects. Lately I've been fine-tuning ABS printing... I think many of these parts could be stepped up with ABS.
Okay, Almost done. Will print a new version of the Baffle above the plate to prevent bullets from "resting" on top. But heck it works!
Boolits Point Down, and NO Ramp. Not that slow either.....
Screen shot of the Gcode of the new baffle I will print out tomorrow.....6 hours worth if you want to know. The baffle and shaped holes in the plate are how I get around the boolit flip ramp.
Attachment 269301
What's the baffle for? With the baffle placed a tenth of a mm or two above the bullet diameter, bullet can only go in part way base down in the shaped holes......while point down falls right in. So the "part ways" are knocked back to the bottom for another try at going in point down.
None of this would have been possible without AmmoMike, Cast Boolits, TyerR, and my friends, RedlegEd, AR-bossman, and jmorris! Now look what you've done.....I'm totally hooked.
Last edited by GWS; 10-13-2020 at 01:03 AM.
Quote Originally Posted by mynameis940
Works flawlessly, I had one nose down out of the 1000 I loaded this evening. I got to say thank you so much Tyler, I got this thing set up so perfectly for how I want it now. Put it to the right of the case feeder where I have all my projectiles in akromils bins so it’s easy to throw the projectiles in. Also it holds and functions with so many more projectiles than the small one. Thank you so much.
I didn’t seem to have a problem with drilling it at all, took me about 1 minute and it didn’t get hot or anything. It could be because I went 1/8th like you suggested so it wasn’t too big of a hole.
What was it that had to be printed again? I missed something...
I wet tumble any brass thats not brand spanking new before it goes through any of my machines. Just my preference and OCDI need to add a observation with case feeding.
Using it for depriming brass before cleaning, the crud on the brass gets under the plate and you can hear the motor start to strain just a tiny tiny bit. You may be able to hear it in the video. So as the crud builds up on the bottom of the bowl, the plate will rub on the crud. I solved the issue by placing a thin washer between the plate and the bowl. Really no way to add it in the print. Heck, you could even print a thin washer.
I deprimed about 500 pieces of dirty brass and it started building up fast. I’ll try and post a pic of the bottom of the plate to show.
Hey GWS, which turning plate are you using to get nose down bullets? I am using the original Ammo Mike design too but don't recall seeing a nose down slider plate as one piece.
Thx!
Not that size mattersBut I am using a 0.8 nozzle and printing at 0.6mm layer height with good results; I print at 25 mm/s
It's definitely not as fine a print as 0.15mm but works perfectly fine for this project
Bonus is, super fast printes
That's because I don't use a bullet turning slider plate for that.....the plate is just the flat plate to fill the hole. I made a special wheel with shaped bullet drops, and a baffle that is screwed to the base, a bullet width on top of drop wheel, that forces bullets to only drop point down......there is no bullet flipping going on .....just knocking wrong way bullets to the bottom since the baffle won't let wrong way bullets drop on in.
This is my way to totally bypass MBF patented bullet ramp and slide plates that flip bullets.....and I guarantee I won't be patenting this one. The ramp is there, but look closer.....it's not being used.
Last edited by GWS; 10-13-2020 at 01:52 AM.
Just a follow up on my previous post. I’m going to order one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Se.../dp/B07YBXMTWC
The specs look absolutely perfect for what we’re trying to do, it’s widely available, and compared to the McMaster motor it’s way cheaper.
But I don’t have a way to modify the bullet feeder base. Would anyone be willing to make a version for this? The motor dimensions are below. I only use fusion360 for cad and unfortunately I find it very difficult to modify STL files with that program.
Hey Tyler!
Can you specify what constitutes large and small? In the case of the slides for nose down, there is large and small. Which calibers are we talking?
Thx!
Well, 2nd Tyler bullet feeder printing now. Should be done tomorrow morning.
I have tested these:
Small - 9mm and 380acp
Large - 45acp and 40sw
That being said I am pretty sure between the two, most pistol calibers can be handled. Worst case, create a caliber specific collator plate and use a set screw to adjust the location of the slide.
Looking good GWS. Designing is very addictive isn't it?
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