Making that Bullet Collator

[mynameis940]

So it's better, but still failing every 10th one? And this is at 45 degree angle?

Yup, i'm going to mess with it some more and see where it works best but it'll be tomorrow. I don't like this hex shaft so I drilled a hole in the motor and ordered a rollpin. It'll be here tomorrow so I'll be messing around with it tomorrow morning

[GWS]

Second the Spring _Adapter_DT_Large does not print properly on my printer. I swapped from the 0.6 nozzle back to the 0.4 and it will work but has areas where I can see light through the print. May be my print settings but here are some pictures. The horrible one was the 0.6 nozzle, the other is the 0.4
Attachment 269130

I printed my adapters with four walls and 100% fill. They printed great. I was worried about less than that. .4 nozzle of course.....since that's all I have!

[lablover]

45 acp. You mean base up right?

[lablover]

I got it working. I had to wire it like this. Don't ask me why this works but it does. Now I just have to figure out how to make collator plates for the hex.
Attachment 268088

Been trying for several hours to get this wired to work and zero luck. Ive tried everything. Only way to get it to work is not use the photo relay at all then I get power. Just disconected everything and will try again. I think its that jumper thats screwing me. So so many wires...Elec is not my strong suit

[o416]

Been trying for several hours to get this wired to work and zero luck. Ive tried everything. Only way to get it to work is not use the photo relay at all then I get power. Just disconected everything and will try again. I think its that jumper thats screwing me. So so many wires...Elec is not my strong suit

lablover, try this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS00...annel=hillsgun

Should help

[TylerR]

45 acp. You mean base up right?

Yes, my bad, base up.

[HATCH]

4 days 21hrs? Mine took 12hrs and under 45mins. It came out perfect and that was my first big print ever. What settings are you using?

Print speed is 50 mm/s

With the exception of turning the brim off, the rest is the standard defaults
8 layers top
8 layers bottom
2 line wall count
Extra fine .06 layer height

I guess you can change the settings to .3mm layer height and that knocks it down to a little over a day.

You could also increase your print speed as well and that will decrease your print time.

I originally worked with Mike directly on the original design as far as how to print it.

Wall count was a big issue and infill.

Wall count is how many solid layers you have before you get to infill.
He initially said 5.
Keep in mind that infill is a bunch of empty space. So anything you screw in is only held by the walls.

I am 7 hrs into my print and my z axis is only on .6
This is because the entire footprint of the base has been printed 10 times already.
I have ten solid layers. No infill yet.


In the beginning I paid a guy to print me one.
It looked great but wasn’t.
The walls separated. Had to heat them up to repair them.
Just wasn’t good quality.
Then I purchased a printer. Not a high end. Just a cheap $150.
This is the fourth one I have printed (the first larger one) and i am willing to wait the five days because I am printing it to last.

I would print this at 100% infill if I could get a big enough spoil of pla and wanted to wait a month for the print to be done. (Guessing a month)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

Okay, so tested it out about 90% make it with baseside down but 1/10 are flipping to nose down

Just posted a new version. Ridges on all slide plates have been moved out another .5mm. Also slight change to the small pistol collator plate.

[TylerR]

45 acp. You mean base up right?

I will try to get them posted later this week. I can tell you that base up case feeding is a very tricky animal. The bottom line is the case does not like to be base up. Combine that with the sharp edges of the case mouth wanting to catch on any little thing, things want to jam up. I have the case flipping down to a science, and they go thru the drop hole reliably. The big issue now is getting them to not flip around in the funnel and get stuck. 45 ACP is the one I have done the most testing with, and working the most reliably.

[mynameis940]

Just posted a new version. Ridges on all slide plates have been moved out another .5mm. Also slight change to the small pistol collator plate.

should i use that collator plate too or just the new slide plate? I used the generator for 9mm to create the plate I'm printing now.

[TylerR]

should i use that collator plate too or just the new slide plate? I used the generator for 9mm to create the plate I'm printing now.

Somehow my small pistol plate ended up with 11mm height instead of 13. I regenerated it to be 13mm.

[lablover]

lablover, try this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS00...annel=hillsgun

Should help

Think I have a bum photo sensor controller. I’m whipped, will try again tomorrow

[lablover]

I will try to get them posted later this week. I can tell you that base up case feeding is a very tricky animal. The bottom line is the case does not like to be base up. Combine that with the sharp edges of the case mouth wanting to catch on any little thing, things want to jam up. I have the case flipping down to a science, and they go thru the drop hole reliably. The big issue now is getting them to not flip around in the funnel and get stuck. 45 ACP is the one I have done the most testing with, and working the most reliably.

No worries, I figured it was a rare beast! I’ve got enough to keep me busy for a few days for sure.

[GWS]

I will try to get them posted later this week. I can tell you that base up case feeding is a very tricky animal. The bottom line is the case does not like to be base up. Combine that with the sharp edges of the case mouth wanting to catch on any little thing, things want to jam up. I have the case flipping down to a science, and they go thru the drop hole reliably. The big issue now is getting them to not flip around in the funnel and get stuck. 45 ACP is the one I have done the most testing with, and working the most reliably.

I think the biggest problem with reliability is the rough PLA surface. You have problems with case edges....I can imagine. I even have problems with nose down bullets.....they don't want to slide on that rough PLA surface, so when they drop part way early like I did successfully on my Hornady conversion....to keep them from hanging at high speed, the PLA grabs and wants to flip the bullets. I'm coating that surface with something hard and slick tomorrow, and I'll bet that will help. Might be of help to your cases too.

My rampless bullet point down is working 95%. Getting close.

[GWS]

I would print this at 100% infill if I could get a big enough spoil of pla and wanted to wait a month for the print to be done. (Guessing a month)

Hatch: My first print worked really well, and it seems to be plenty tough. After I thought about it awhile, I decided to try 4 walls and only 2 solid layers before starting the 18% Gyroid infill. Top finish was another 2 layers solid. I was impressed with that. Pretty darn strong. The print (small base) took 16 hours. I thought it important to have the 4 walls because that means all the motor mount bolt holes have 4 walls around each hole....and the sides of the base have four walls inside and outside both.

Mine's the small base......the next project will be the larger base. Will I change anything for that one? I think I'll try for a smoother base bottom top horizontal surface by using a 4 layer top surface after the gyroid fill. The gyroid was twice as fast as any of my software's fill choices. I'm using IdeaMaker.....way happy with it. Lots easier for me to understand than Cura was, and it's every bit as powerful.

Below is a picture of the IdeaMaker gyroid fill at 18% on my first plate. an experimental bullet nose down plate for .45 boolits, it took 6 hours to print that......nothing is delaminating and is being used a lot as I attempt to develop a rampless feeder design.

[lablover]

I think the biggest problem with reliability is the rough PLA surface. You have problems with case edges....I can imagine. I even have problems with nose down bullets.....they don't want to slide on that rough PLA surface, so when they drop part way early like I did successfully on my Hornady conversion....to keep them from hanging at high speed, the PLA grabs and wants to flip the bullets. I'm coating that surface with something hard and slick tomorrow, and I'll bet that will help. Might be of help to your cases too.

My rampless bullet point down is working 95%. Getting close.

Check a printer setting called ironing. It will make the final top layer extra smooth

[gnafin]

Sweet, how long is yours estimating?

at this point it was 15 hr.

[gnafin]

I’ll be curious if the small plate will work with my tiny 32 acp stuff. I might have to use the openscad to customize to work

Also, I was about to pull the trigger on a Prusa Mk3. Wife looks at me and says...” didn’t you want to get a new AR15”. Prusa is on hold...new AR on the way instead.... wait till your Dillon shows up! Let the crazy begin. Hope you have a stock of primers. Almost impossible to get right now. I’m set for all calibers for the next several years

that's a good wife...and i just have 1 box of 1000 primers left!!!

[lablover]

that's a good wife...and i just have 1 box of 1000 primers left!!!

I’d be in a panic for sure! Hopefully it comes around soon.

[JSATX]

Howdy all, I've got the printer running away trying to knock this sucker out. I see the JGY370 is no longer recommended, this one looks like it has the same housing and a bigger motor. Has anyone tried it?

Apologies if it has been asked already. I'm on page 54 of the thread haha, only 15 more pages to go but I had to jump ahead and ask.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ST7KG47K&psc=1