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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #661
    Boolit Buddy
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    What does your drop tube look like?

  2. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by AR-Bossman View Post
    What does your drop tube look like?


    You can see the trigger arm is fairly low in the tube.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #663
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    If you printed that you could put an extension on that with tinkercad.

  4. #664
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    Quote Originally Posted by AR-Bossman View Post
    If you printed that you could put an extension on that with tinkercad.
    Yea would be better off remodeling it in fusion360. Pretty simple to move the switch up. Also the base tolerances are slightly too much for my liking.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #665
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProMSL View Post
    I went with the mr bullet feeder switch. Although I'm thinking about modifying the drop tube for it, as it sits somewhat low, not allowing that many bullets to load into the tube.

    Others in this chat swear by the light sensor version.
    You won't out run the MBF motor, so the # in the tube doesn't make a difference. I run the MBF on my 1050 fully automated 2,000+ rd hour

  6. #666
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    I'm interested in someone selling me the parts. I don't own a printer yet so files are worthless to me.


    Is anyone interested in making me a collator wheel for 22 caliber and 30 caliber along with the tube or other small parts I would need? I would gladly pay for this service since I do NOT own a printer.

  7. #667
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    Mike, Just wanted to say thanks for all the hard work on the design and tweaking it since originally posted. I just started printing my base and am looking forward to putting it all together and mounting it on my LnL. Curious as to if anyone has tried a more boutique filament with this. I'm printing mine out of Raptor Series PLA (in red of course). That stuff is supposedly very strong. Also, based off of previous experience, I'm printing mine at a lower infill than 80%. I have a month in the desert coming up, so if it breaks, I'll just print a new one. Once its done printing (sometime late tonight), I will do a strength test on it with some .45s and see how she holds and, of course, post my findings here. Thanks again Mike.

  8. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post

    Is anyone interested in making me a collator wheel for 22 caliber and 30 caliber along with the tube or other small parts I would need? I would gladly pay for this service since I do NOT own a printer.
    This was not a simple just print and play design, tolerances and fitment issues are all over the place. So even if someone sends you the parts, they many not work without modification and/or reprinting /remixing. I've had to refit every part and every hole.

  9. #669
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    Quote Originally Posted by Followme438 View Post
    Mike, Just wanted to say thanks for all the hard work on the design and tweaking it since originally posted.
    I'm going to echo that, thanks for starting this project and sharing it!

  10. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by Followme438 View Post
    Mike, Just wanted to say thanks for all the hard work on the design and tweaking it since originally posted. I just started printing my base and am looking forward to putting it all together and mounting it on my LnL. Curious as to if anyone has tried a more boutique filament with this. I'm printing mine out of Raptor Series PLA (in red of course). That stuff is supposedly very strong. Also, based off of previous experience, I'm printing mine at a lower infill than 80%. I have a month in the desert coming up, so if it breaks, I'll just print a new one. Once its done printing (sometime late tonight), I will do a strength test on it with some .45s and see how she holds and, of course, post my findings here. Thanks again Mike.


    Yeah, the infill recommendation is way overkill. 4 outside layers and around 30% infill is PLENTY strong. Wait till it's fully printed and you will see just how tough these prints are.
    I wish I had the design files so I could make some small changes and get rid off all the holes I am not going to use.

  11. #671
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruebarb View Post
    This was not a simple just print and play design, tolerances and fitment issues are all over the place. So even if someone sends you the parts, they many not work without modification and/or reprinting /remixing. I've had to refit every part and every hole.
    If I am lucky enough to receive parts from a fellow forum member it would be with the full knowledge on my part that some additional work may be needed on my part for a perfect fit. I just need the parts.....I can make them work.

    Just not ready to purchase more equipment that I will have to pack up when we move to Arizona. Makes more sense to move and then purchase something finiky like a 3D printer. This way a new machine doesn't get transported across the U.S. getting the hell shaken out of it.

  12. #672
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    Quote Originally Posted by AR-Bossman View Post
    Yeah, the infill recommendation is way overkill. 4 outside layers and around 30% infill is PLENTY strong. Wait till it's fully printed and you will see just how tough these prints are.
    I wish I had the design files so I could make some small changes and get rid off all the holes I am not going to use.
    You can remove the holes fairly easy with meshmixer, use the selection tool over the hole, select the faces, delete, then use repair.

  13. #673
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    If I am lucky enough to receive parts from a fellow forum member it would be with the full knowledge on my part that some additional work may be needed on my part for a perfect fit. I just need the parts.....I can make them work.

    Just not ready to purchase more equipment that I will have to pack up when we move to Arizona. Makes more sense to move and then purchase something finiky like a 3D printer. This way a new machine doesn't get transported across the U.S. getting the hell shaken out of it.
    Send me a PM or email

  14. #674
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    Well, my base came out marvelously, and I am now printing the rest of the parts. Zero issues with the print, and I'm fairly certain it will hold up to any bullets I put in it.

  15. #675
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    Quote Originally Posted by Followme438 View Post
    Well, my base came out marvelously, and I am now printing the rest of the parts. Zero issues with the print, and I'm fairly certain it will hold up to any bullets I put in it.
    Pics or it didn't happen.

  16. #676
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    Click image for larger version. 

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  17. #677
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    Nice print. Keep us updated

  18. #678
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    Quote Originally Posted by Followme438 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice print! You’ve probably figured out by now though that you have the flipper plate backwards, and you’ll need to adjust it out about a cm.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  19. #679
    Boolit Mold
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    I have finished my 6.5mm Collator & Flip plate, works great.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547180
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547193

  20. #680
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruebarb View Post
    I have finished my 6.5mm Collator & Flip plate, works great.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547180
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547193
    Those look good! Saved for later.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check