Making that Bullet Collator

[jamg]

If you want to use clear tube between the APP insert (or offset) then yes, there is an adapter that goes from the clear tube to the bottom of the drop tube. These is a picture of that in the project. Or you can just skip the clear tube completely.

Let me see if I got this right.

If I want to put the drop tube directly on top of the horandy drop tube adapter then I don't need an adapter below it. I'd just need to print the adapter to have the spring go directly to the drop tube. I had previously thought I wanted the drop tube as high as possible to have as much in the tube/spring before shutting off the motor. But I'm not sure that's going to be much of an issue as the collator will likely be faster than I can load or deprime, and it doesn't appear to really give me a ton of advantage.

[jamg]

Actually it looks like drop_tube_alt would get the drop tube directly off the collator for bullet feeding, and directly off the brass_x_drop_hole_adapter for brass feeding.

A thought just crossed my mind. I'm putting together a collator for brass depriming on the Lee app. I will mainly be doing 9mm, but will likely end up doing .38, .40 .44 and .45 acp eventually. Do I actually need drop tubes for each? or could you get away with just printing the biggest diameter drop tube and be able to run all of the calibers?

[GWS]

Actually it looks like drop_tube_alt would get the drop tube directly off the collator for bullet feeding, and directly off the brass_x_drop_hole_adapter for brass feeding.

A thought just crossed my mind. I'm putting together a collator for brass depriming on the Lee app. I will mainly be doing 9mm, but will likely end up doing .38, .40 .44 and .45 acp eventually. Do I actually need drop tubes for each? or could you get away with just printing the biggest diameter drop tube and be able to run all of the calibers?

Your first question I'll defer to TylerR.....I haven't used that combination. But drop tubes on the APP?.....I recommend printing each size drop tube you want to process. Notice the video below: (make it big so you can see) See the cutout in the drop tube for the .357 ones? That cutout is critical for really trouble-free feeding of that caliber.....and the diameter of the drop tube is equally important to feeding them smooth and fast with no hangs.

On drop tubes it is important to use the right shuttle (slide) under it, that is just lower (shorter) than the case. Higher ones will allow the next case to drop also and jam half in and out. Just lower allows the slide to move the dropped case out of the drop spot and allows the next case to drop onto the slide back for the ride to the die and back where it in turn drops, and repeats the process. So you can see why you need the notch for the tall .357. Since each caliber's case is different in height, its the slide/caliber specific downtube combo that makes it work so well.



Notice in the video that the clear tube is directly placed in the downtube.......that was because I modified the original a little, before I realized TylerR had an adapter to drop into these drop tubes....that's why I had to drill mine a little for direct clear tubing. I'm sure one of the three should drop in TylerR's though...... I think I'll re-examine mine since that .357 one in the video is one I designed.....and I don't know if the top of that .stl is made for TylerR's adaptors. His .40S&W ones are a little different from mine too.

[jamg]

Ok I think I'm messing up the terminology, or I'm looking at the wrong drop tubes entirely. I was looking at the drop tubes in the manual at step 6 for both the case feeder for the APP and the bullet feeder for the 1050. It looks like the tube with the notch specifically for the APP press is in step 8 in the manual as app_x_insert_x.

I had thought the drop tubes in the manual at step 6 were needed to house the proximity sensor to stop the feeder from running when the switch is triggered in both bullet feeder and case feeder applications.

[GWS]

Yeah, now I see. You were confusing me too. Step six is the drop tubes for case/bullet detection....the alt version is for sensors near the collator.....the other versions are for sensors mounted at the feed die end.....I much prefer the proximity sensors over switches and light sensors.....they work every time.....very little fiddling and adjustment.

Step eight is the APP stuff....very caliber specific.....less so for bullets .....more so for cases.

At first, when I started this 3d project, I didn't realize I'd want 5 collators ever in my dreams.....so I wanted the sensors mounted next to the collator where I could move the collator and sensor together from one press to another...........then I had so much fun printing collators, and had a specific use for each that I quit worrying about moving them and the sensors.

So now what I have is one progressive for pistol where I have a modified Hornady (not 3d printed)pistol bullet collator but using TylerR's wonderful bullet feeder dies, and a TylerR Original size collator to feed pistol cases.

Then I have another 7station progressive for rifle.....TylerR Original size bullet collator.....and a larger 300mm collator for cases.

And finally I have an original AmmoMike tiny collator for to feed my APP (for now.....will probably print one more TylerR original to replace it......since I use it mainly to deprime and swage both rifle and pistol brass.....I will most likely never size boolits.....I don't even own a lead furnace or molds.)

[jamg]

My apologies GWS. While I've had my 3d printer for a while I've never undertook a project to this scale, and two at the same time at that.

[GWS]

Happy to help where I can.....part of the fun. Warning though.....the addiction only grows.

BTW, since you want to deprime pistol cases, print one of TylerR's APP slider (shuttle) bases! It has a support at the bottom that Lee's shuttle base doesn't. It makes life much sweeter not to have case bases tilt and either fall or worse get jammed in the Lee shell holder. It's the most important part IMO. Originally I made a wire protrusion out of a paperclip that did the job, but TylerR perfected and simplified it......waaay better. Two are offered....print the one with the shorter support first as it will do most calibers. The other is for recessed base brass that maybe might give you trouble. So far the shorter one works for me.

[Sgt Beer Belly]

SOLD Not sure if I can post this here.

In case someone needs one.
I bought this Dayton 52JE51 Motor gearbox about a month ago, I barely used it.
$50 shipped to your door

Admin please move/delete if this post is not allowed.
SOLD

[TylerR]

Thank you @TylerR. The problem is the difference between the curvature radius of the Mount_Post.stl with the 300 sized body curvature radius. The curvature of the post has a smaller radius than the 300 sized body. So the the bottom holes do not match up since the post does not touch the curvature completely and is pushed back (given the curvature differences). I printed the parts twice to make sure that the parts did not had any print failures and it still does not match. I was able to fix it yesterday night by sanding the Mount_Post curvature to have a larger radius. With the curvature fixed the parts fits nicely on the bottom holes (the top sidewall holes always match since the bottom parts are flat).

Looking at it now, I realized I printed a newer version of that part that is not as wide. At some point I realized the extra width was just a waste. I have posted the newer version of Mount_Post to downloads. Glad you found a work around.

[jamg]

Happy to help where I can.....part of the fun. Warning though.....the addiction only grows.

BTW, since you want to deprime pistol cases, print one of TylerR's APP slider (shuttle) bases! It has a support at the bottom that Lee's shuttle base doesn't. It makes life much sweeter not to have case bases tilt and either fall or worse get jammed in the Lee shell holder. It's the most important part IMO. Originally I made a wire protrusion out of a paperclip that did the job, but TylerR perfected ans simplified it......waaay better. Two are offered....print the one with the shorter support first as it will do most calibers. The other is for recessed base brass that maybe might give you trouble. So far the shorter one works for me.

Ok got the Lee APP installed. That sounds like something I definitely need to print out. I find that every so often I'm launching shells out of the shellholder. Some of that is the cases falling after tilting, the other part is the universal lee decapping die doesn't appear to always knock out the primer fully.

So I'm looking at the brass feedering project on the Lee APP right now. And I have the main body left to print. I have the assembly with the brass slide plate to the brass drop hole adapter to the drop tube with proximity sensor. I'm trying to find the adapter I'd need to go from the drop tube now to the clear tube on the APP. Part I Drop_hole_drop_tube_adapter sounds like what I need, but looking at the picture it doesn't quite look like what I'd expect.

[TylerR]

Ok got the Lee APP installed. That sounds like something I definitely need to print out. I find that every so often I'm launching shells out of the shellholder. Some of that is the cases falling after tilting, the other part is the universal lee decapping die doesn't appear to always knock out the primer fully.

So I'm looking at the brass feedering project on the Lee APP right now. And I have the main body left to print. I have the assembly with the brass slide plate to the brass drop hole adapter to the drop tube with proximity sensor. I'm trying to find the adapter I'd need to go from the drop tube now to the clear tube on the APP. Part I Drop_hole_drop_tube_adapter sounds like what I need, but looking at the picture it doesn't quite look like what I'd expect.

APP_Drop_Tube_#X_Adapter. it goes from the bottom of the drop tube to one of the 4 sizes of APP clear tubes.

[Hube&Spoke]

Looking at it now, I realized I printed a newer version of that part that is not as wide. At some point I realized the extra width was just a waste. I have posted the newer version of Mount_Post to downloads. Glad you found a work around.

Thank you TylerR. I already built a Standard sized, a 300 sized, and now I am in the process of building a Mongo sized Collator. You did a great job building all of these parts along with the members of this forum.

I do have a question on how to connect the Sweeper_Long part to the Collator? It says to clamps onto the flipper housing but I am little dense and cannot figure out the correct way to do it? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you again.

[jamg]

APP_Drop_Tube_#X_Adapter. it goes from the bottom of the drop tube to one of the 4 sizes of APP clear tubes.

I'm messing up the terms again, I apologize. I printed the drop_tube_alt to put the drop tube just off the brass side plate and brass drop hole adapter. The drop_tube_alt looks to have a twist connection on the bottom that I need to find a way to adapt to the clear tube.

[GWS]

Thank you TylerR. I already built a Standard sized, a 300 sized, and now I am in the process of building a Mongo sized Collator. You did a great job building all of these parts along with the members of this forum.

I do have a question on how to connect the Sweeper_Long part to the Collator? It says to clamps onto the flipper housing but I am little dense and cannot figure out the correct way to do it? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you again.

That's the short one, but the long one goes on the same way. (was not that easy to hold the camera and demonstrate at the same time....especially since I've lost 50% of my dexterity in last 5 years. (Tyler.....if that question keeps coming up, you are welcome to that video...just threw it together tonight, not fancy, but at least it answers the question.)

I'm messing up the terms again, I apologize. I printed the drop_tube_alt to put the drop tube just off the brass side plate and brass drop hole adapter. The drop_tube_alt looks to have a twist connection on the bottom that I need to find a way to adapt to the clear tube.

Its in the adapters section, but there's more than one....and I don't have them memorized. Too many tubes sizes for one thing. Doesn't the manual have a little chart that specifies clear tube sizes for them? I'm sure TylerR will be along, but he has a family and a wife that comes first.

[Hube&Spoke]

That's the short one, but the long one goes on the same way. (was not that easy to hold the camera and demonstrate at the same time....especially since I've lost 50% of my dexterity in last 5 years. (Tyler.....if that question keeps coming up, you are welcome to that video...just threw it together tonight, not fancy, but at least it answers the question.)



Its in the adapters section, but there's more than one....and I don't have them memorized. Too many tubes sizes for one thing. Doesn't the manual have a little chart that specifies clear tube sizes for them? I'm sure TylerR will be along, but he has a family and a wife that comes first.

Thank You GWS. The video really helped and resolved my question.

[jamg]

That's the short one, but the long one goes on the same way. (was not that easy to hold the camera and demonstrate at the same time....especially since I've lost 50% of my dexterity in last 5 years. (Tyler.....if that question keeps coming up, you are welcome to that video...just threw it together tonight, not fancy, but at least it answers the question.)



Its in the adapters section, but there's more than one....and I don't have them memorized. Too many tubes sizes for one thing. Doesn't the manual have a little chart that specifies clear tube sizes for them? I'm sure TylerR will be along, but he has a family and a wife that comes first.

Family first. I'm doing most if not all of my tinkering after everyone else is asleep =)

I'm going to go ahead and print the APP replacement parts, as I'll need those. From there I just need to figure out which adapter it is. I'll eventually find it.

The sweeper is ingenious, honestly this entire design is very very very impressive. I found myself having some trouble visualizing somethings, but after printing it and spending the time to put it together this entire project has been very well thought out.

[GWS]

Family first. I'm doing most if not all of my tinkering after everyone else is asleep =)

I'm going to go ahead and print the APP replacement parts, as I'll need those. From there I just need to figure out which adapter it is. I'll eventually find it.

The sweeper is ingenious, honestly this entire design is very very very impressive. I found myself having some trouble visualizing somethings, but after printing it and spending the time to put it together this entire project has been very well thought out.

Yes, TylerR is ingenius, pure and simple.

For .308 and taller cases, I felt I needed another "sweeper" for the bigger 300mm collator....more towards the back so cases wouldn't bunch up too close to the outlet. So I donated still another part to the cause: TylerR called it the "Large Sweeper" and it mounts to existing holes on the right side of the 300mm collator base. The vertical adjustment slots was TylerR's idea...I had multiple holes...slots be better. Picture and a quick video of that below:





I am most amazed with Cast Boolits, who allows this thread to continue this long.....without their contribution it wouldn't be available to us at all.

[azlester]

Yep, I got it figured out and it works well....now if I can just figure out why my bullets are getting jammed up between the drop tube and the bullet loading die. When they first drop down they go right into the die easy peasy....after whats in the die is used I have to tap it firmly to get them to drop down...when they do drop down there are some jammed up in the drop tube and have to do the same thing to get them to drop and start the motor back up. 9mm 124gr powder coated sized to .356. using the medium adapter and 11mm I.D. spring.

[jamg]

5 hours left on the main body and at 6am I ran out of filament. Thankfully I added a filament runout sensor.

The main body will be 3/4 green and 1/4 purple lol.

I finished the wiring on the bullet feeder one. Just waiting on the springs now. I picked up some springs at home depot, but I think they're going to be too short.

[GWS]

Yep, I got it figured out and it works well....now if I can just figure out why my bullets are getting jammed up between the drop tube and the bullet loading die. When they first drop down they go right into the die easy peasy....after whats in the die is used I have to tap it firmly to get them to drop down...when they do drop down there are some jammed up in the drop tube and have to do the same thing to get them to drop and start the motor back up. 9mm 124gr powder coated sized to .356. using the medium adapter and 11mm I.D. spring.

If I were to guess, is would be......9mm in a 11mm spring may be enough extra room to tilt the bullets and allow them to jam up..........or......the transitions between spring and tube may have a shelf or lip to hang a bullet. Gotta be smooth in those transitions......

Third possibility is the drop tubes are not smooth inside. Find a drill bit close to the i.s. diameter and run it back and forth manually in there to eliminate any strings, blobs, or roughness inside. You might even have to run a round file inside or some acetone soaked rag wrapped bit through it.

Slicer settings to stop stringing and blobs will prevent 95% of that grief, but such settings are slicer specific. I use IdeaMaker, and you probably use another.....so my setting may not be any help.

5 hours left on the main body and at 6am I ran out of filament. Thankfully I added a filament runout sensor.

The main body will be 3/4 green and 1/4 purple lol.

I finished the wiring on the bullet feeder one. Just waiting on the springs now. I picked up some springs at home depot, but I think they're going to be too short.

Depending on how short, you may be able to stretch the springs .....besides making them longer, it will provide some see through.....but not too much or bullets will hang.