Bugger... Is it possible to carefully hand drill new holes to match your motor? I know you'll need to be careful if you want to countersink the heads, or else you will go all the way through.
No reason why you can't have it clocked around a little to give room for the counter sinking.
You CAN go all the way through and need to for the motor. Take it slow, and drill smaller hole first then at size you need. If you printed at 75% or higher it is almost solid and as thick as base is, it will hold.
My motor, a 370 has a relatively short, but threaded shaft. Takes a 3mm screw. I found a 3mm hex riser off an old PC I had stripped, cross drilled and put in roll pin. If I have to, I can put some thread lock, but I think it will hold tight enough. Just waiting on a powersupply and bullet drop die.
Oh, changed to the file was mainly to eliminate the short sided feeder.
My preference would be to either print the right base or get the right motor with the right bolt patter for the base[s] I printed. I guess what Im not really understanding is why the motors for Uxcell 12v in 3 thru 120 rpm - geared centric - dont have a bolt pattern that is even close to what is on this STL. The item I printed has a 22.5 - 23mm spacing. Most all the Uxcell motors I see on amazon are either 17mm or 31mm.Originally Posted by Handloader109
Kinda looking for some confirmations from the creator - AmmoMike ... perhaps I need both - new motor and new base, but if so - why have that Uxcell 12V Centric motor base in the group of stls at all ... Im sure something fits it.
P.S. - anyone used a Arduino Nano + EasyDriver + Nema17 stepper motor + Potentiometer for powering one of these ?
Welp - looks like I got my answer ... I get to redo BOTH it seems ... mehhhh ...
The uxcell base fits exactly the dimension of that amazon link. There are hundreds of motors available. Send me the dimensions and motor type and I will create a base for you. It’s easy to find out if it’s fitting your motor. Just load the STL file in a viewer and make some measurements, before stupidly printing all. Or go and create your own bullet feeder. Such comments on thingiverse are pissing me off.Welp - looks like I got my answer ... I get to redo BOTH it seems ... mehhhh ...
Last edited by HATCH; 05-01-2018 at 02:10 PM.
Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.
Hey Mike,
Im sorry youre pissed off ... Dont really think I posted something that should be that upsetting - I was expressing my displeasure with my mistake, which its obvious I made errors - as Ive said up above - I ordered the wrong motor and/or printed the wrong bases.
That said - I think youre getting a bit bent outta shape over your misunderstanding, and perhaps could kick it down a notch on the aggression scale. Im not the only user/maker/builder of this that struggles at times with the maze of different stl and rapid changes etc ...
What amazon LINK and BASE are you even referring to ? If there is a Motor that fits that - Id gladly buy that ... but as I said I cant find a motor that fits it or a mounting bracket.
Last edited by InfringedNSocal; 05-01-2018 at 02:16 PM.
nope. it's still there. As you can see on the screenshot there is no delete function for me. And I am working on a new base according to your measurements.
Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.
Thingiverse post edited for clarity.
My post wasnt being found by text search - i removed my post here in this forum referencing that, and as well mod'd my thingie post to hopefully clarify.
nope. it's still there. As you can see on the screenshot there is no delete function for me. And I am working on a new base according to your measurements.
Id be rather interested to know what is this amazon link to an amazon Uxcell object - motor or mounting plate - that fits the main center shaft hole ANd the 22mm bolt pattern spacing - Id gladly buy that item to make this work. Additionally before posting Ive searched ebay amazon and general interwebz for 2 days worth of free time trying to locate the device you used to model that base after ...
Thank you
We should both calm down. It was something like this.
Due to the fact, it's not available anymore on amazon, I removed it.
Your new base plate is online at thingiverse. bf_v2_base_WH120_uxcell_31mm_center.stl
I increased the "shaft" diameter to 12.3mm instead of 12mm because of material shrinking. Please verify the dimensions and always be polite. I am trying to help, where I can.
Have fun.
Mike
Sounds fair ... DEAL.We should both calm down. It was something like this.
Due to the fact, it's not available anymore on amazon, I removed it.
Your new base plate is online at thingiverse. bf_v2_base_WH120_uxcell_31mm_center.stl
I increased the "shaft" diameter to 12.3mm instead of 12mm because of material shrinking. Please verify the dimensions and always be polite. I am trying to help, where I can.
Have fun.
Mike
12.3mm - good call
I will reprint and advise.
Thank you
No! „I will check, reprint and advise.“
My pleasure.
Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.
A stepper motor would be a pretty sweet setup actually. No back lash that geared motors have, i just don't know what the torque would be like, you can alter the speed as required. I'd like to see how one goes if you went that route. Easily adjusted with a pot on one of the analogue inputs on the arduino.
Im kinda thinking a stepper with like a Watterott TMC2130 driver that has some stallguard on it it might be best - but how to get that out of the driver with a simple tutorial Nano sketch - I have NO clue.
Guys have pinged me and advised theyve had these high torque geared motors drive the cross shaft pins thru the Collator plate center wals if a bullet gets jammed ... having a stepper that - skips steps may be mo' bettah ?
With a stepper, i wonder if you could monitor the current draw instead of stallguard that i assume would jsut shut down?. If there is a power spike, you know it has stalled, and could possible get it to reverse a little then turn again to hopefully clear and jambs?
Monitoring current draw would be pretty simple too, measure voltage across a current shunt using yet another analogue input on the arduino.
Can do a reverse with a DC motor too. As mentioned monitor current and of it hits stall flip polarity to the motor with a relay. Way the feeder for my pellet stove works.
I have been using this general design for more than a decade and have never had one that reversed. The only time I have ever had one jam is if it fills the tube and keeps running until it binds a bullet between the wheel and drop hole.
That is where i have been having issues with binding up while dropping into the tube. I need to spend more time to work out angles to allow the projectile to drop easier without jamming up the wheel.
One thing to think about is how fast you are running it. If you run the collator as slow as you can, and keep up with your press, the better they run and less problems you have.
A PWM speed control would be best (to retain torque) but I have just run the Dayton 2L007 motors (way more torque than needed) on lower voltage. Taking one of mine from 12v all the way down to 3v slowed it down where it hasn’t miss collated a bullet in over seven years now and is still fast enough to keep the tube full on the machine it’s mounted on that loads 1000 rounds in 52 minutes.
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote