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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #441
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    The higher infill is for cutting threads. Could be difficult on lower infills, but you are right concerning stability.

    WHO is tony???
    Hey there ... Thanks bud. Ok well yeah that makes perfect sense ... I havent gotten to that part yet

    Are there other implementations with Other Than MBF/DubbleAlpha motors with the pin thru the shaft ?

    Is there a specific reason for the MBF motors - or jsut because - theyre already there .... ? Id like to avoid them 100% as well

  2. #442
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    Tony can’t give you advise on this forum.
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  3. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Hey there ... Thanks bud. Ok well yeah that makes perfect sense ... I havent gotten to that part yet

    Are there other implementations with Other Than MBF/DubbleAlpha motors with the pin thru the shaft ?

    Is there a specific reason for the MBF motors - or jsut because - theyre already there .... ? Id like to avoid them 100% as well
    That’s a good question. The MBF Motor (ET-ZGMP38) comes with a pinned shaft, 12V and has the right gear ratio. But it’s available outside of double alpha. There are different bases available for other motors, but you have to mill your own shaft, I think.
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  4. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    Tony can’t give you advise on this forum.
    Good to know TY

  5. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    That’s a good question. The MBF Motor (ET-ZGMP38) comes with a pinned shaft, 12V and has the right gear ratio. But it’s available outside of double alpha. There are different bases available for other motors, but you have to mill your own shaft, I think.
    Looking at the JGY-370 12V - see some specs on Amazon and im converting Kg/cm torque to m familiar oz/in specs and ummm - wow - do these little bullet collators really need 1.5kg/cm or 135 oz/in of torque to rotate bullets around? Also what type of rpms do we need to be looking at?

  6. #446
    Boolit Bub J. DIEGO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Looking at the JGY-370 12V - see some specs on Amazon and im converting Kg/cm torque to m familiar oz/in specs and ummm - wow - do these little bullet collators really need 1.5kg/cm or 135 oz/in of torque to rotate bullets around? Also what type of rpms do we need to be looking at?

    I have three of these jgy370 engines and they work perfect
    I have 2 with 5 rpm and one with 3rpm.
    I have welded a 3mm sheet to fit the dishes.

  7. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. DIEGO View Post
    I have three of these jgy370 engines and they work perfect
    I have 2 with 5 rpm and one with 3rpm.
    I have welded a 3mm sheet to fit the dishes.
    Thx J Diego ... I will look into those motors further - been trying to think of an alternative solution to the drilling of the motor shaft and adding a PIN.

    Anyone put a gear on it - like a pinion gear and used the gear to mesh with the plate to make it rotate ?

  8. #448
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    Entirely Crimson sold a DIY collator kit that used CNC machined plastic.
    You had to assemble it yourself.
    It used the 370 motors. The RPM was 8 I am pretty sure.
    You can use a PWM speed controller to slow it down.
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  9. #449
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    How are you guys not using the MBF motor - adapting the shaft to work with the plates ?

    Besids welding stainless to the shaft [ i dont weld ]

  10. #450
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    Just read on thingiverse comments where MBF guy listed patents and essentially launched not so veiled threats at AmmoMike... frankly Id rather not send the SOB a **** penny for anything, I feel like thats trying to enforce a patent on "automating ammo loading and reloading". So looking for alternatives to design of a "pinned shaft" Which is not a huge dal really - its just a pain to redraw the shell plates for the gear.

    Not wanting to reinvent the wheel ...

  11. #451
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    I haven't found a Dillon blue yet either, century Blue isn't it.... Nice dark blue though. I've got to start collecting pieces, motor is one of those. I've no issue drilling shaft. Just one more thing to do. I'm guessing way easier than creating a gear and either adding match on plate or programming it into the bottom... That actually might work pretty good.

    Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

  12. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handloader109 View Post
    I haven't found a Dillon blue yet either, century Blue isn't it.... Nice dark blue though. I've got to start collecting pieces, motor is one of those. I've no issue drilling shaft. Just one more thing to do. I'm guessing way easier than creating a gear and either adding match on plate or programming it into the bottom... That actually might work pretty good.

    Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk
    Thanks bud ... Im toying around with some stl - might come up with something. Just concerned about torque atm ... Let me know if you need parts - not sure if by your post you meant you needed help with the printed stuff or ... ?

    anyhow - all the best- thx!

  13. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Thanks bud ... Im toying around with some stl - might come up with something. Just concerned about torque atm ... Let me know if you need parts - not sure if by your post you meant you needed help with the printed stuff or ... ?

    anyhow - all the best- thx!
    No, just obtuse sometimes.... I've got my printer working pretty well, it's giving me straight sides, the right height and dimensions are correct. After putting h on a good layer fan I can even make round holes without distortion and span decent gaps.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  14. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handloader109 View Post
    No, just obtuse sometimes.... I've got my printer working pretty well, it's giving me straight sides, the right height and dimensions are correct. After putting h on a good layer fan I can even make round holes without distortion and span decent gaps.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

    Ha ... all good sir ... Im just over here in CA makin some Porn - 1st layer porn that is PEI sheet and bed are bit long in the tooth - buildtac update and removeable flx steel plates go on real soon ... 10 hrs ta go - fingers crossed.

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  15. #455
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    First one is in the bag ... or off the bed - whatever ... 9hrs ...

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  16. #456
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    Ok - so that didnt quite go as planned ... What say ye ...

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    .25 layer height
    120 mm/s print speed [ too fast i know ]
    215 C - Nozz [ might be a bit too hot for this PLA ] [[ I might try some eSun PLA Pro + also ]]
    65 C bed
    .5 Nozzle
    .55 Line width
    8 perimiters
    8 top layers
    8 bottom layers

    Anyone else had an issue at this part of the part ? Looks like a bit of added geometry to the exterior around a few key places might help.

    The plastic seems as if it really wants to warp "out" right there.

    Part was fine till I gave it a little tug

  17. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Ok - so that didnt quite go as planned ... What say ye ...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2018-04-14_1206.jpg 
Views:	79 
Size:	18.6 KB 
ID:	218422

    .25 layer height
    120 mm/s print speed [ too fast i know ]
    215 C - Nozz [ might be a bit too hot for this PLA ] [[ I might try some eSun PLA Pro + also ]]
    65 C bed
    .5 Nozzle
    .55 Line width
    8 perimiters
    8 top layers
    8 bottom layers

    Anyone else had an issue at this part of the part ? Looks like a bit of added geometry to the exterior around a few key places might help.

    The plastic seems as if it really wants to warp "out" right there.

    Part was fine till I gave it a little tug
    Underextrusion? It’s an old design btw. Upgrade your STL file.
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  18. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    Underextrusion? It’s an old design btw. Upgrade your STL file.
    Thought maybe that as well - but the rest of the print is pretty epic. Like the new design btw - I think my DL off thingi was about 30 days or so ago ...

    You feel like that cut away of material creates less tendency for the material to want to pull out / warp a it cools down ?

  19. #459
    Boolit Bub J. DIEGO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Looking at the JGY-370 12V - see some specs on Amazon and im converting Kg/cm torque to m familiar oz/in specs and ummm - wow - do these little bullet collators really need 1.5kg/cm or 135 oz/in of torque to rotate bullets around? Also what type of rpms do we need to be looking at?
    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Thx J Diego ... I will look into those motors further - been trying to think of an alternative solution to the drilling of the motor shaft and adding a PIN.

    Anyone put a gear on it - like a pinion gear and used the gear to mesh with the plate to make it rotate ?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=funKxaBpk7o&t=6s

  20. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. DIEGO View Post
    Nice link mate - thx ... I just found in the linked additional parts and remixes off thingiverse - a guy made a template to drill the hole in the motor shafts - I may elect that option. Still investigating.

    **** now I want to reprint - the new stl that AmmoMike advised - but now Im not sure I have enough of that blue and I dont want to re order it as its not the right Dillon blue. Meh - off to Amazon prime or MicroCenter ...

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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GC Gas Check