Making that Bullet Collator

[TylerR]

The longer screws are actually a good thing IMO, because it makes the plate, the clutch and the handle one assembly that you never have to disassemble. The only flaw is that if you just use a lock nut by itself, it can turn in there.....meaning, if things loosen up and the clutch needs adjusted tighter, you have to remove the handle first.

So either use a square nut like I did on my first one, that won't turn in the limited space and use the lock nut top side, or do what Ed did and create a keeper for the lock nut. His original idea would work with my handle.....but he went further and made a different design......now it's a matter of which an individual likes.

The remaining flaw that I think you don't like is that there are different brands of lock nuts, and one "keeper" may not fit all....and square nuts may or may not be easy for everybody to find. Perfect would be to have a nylon locking square nut, but they don't exist that I'm aware of. OR.......just press a little epoxy putty in one corner, and the nyloc will stay put for a long long time.....the more I think about it....why make it harder than it has to be.


So you all can see this is a design in process......works for me right now, but will it be attractive to everybody? I doubt it, especially not for people who don't improvise or mod things on their own.

That said I sent TylerR the .STL file as is, but I fully expect it will be improved by me or Tyler or Ed, or someone else.

So true my friend.

The main issue I have with it is that it's so easy to say just use a 1/2" long screw no matter what plate you print. Plus, the cover only comes in to play when you are printing a very tall plate.

[TylerR]

I don't think that extra 0.5mm caused it. I printed 4 plates with the clutches and they cycle fine. I suspect this has more to do with poor printer calibrations than tolerances.

However, the bottom screw holes of the clutch plates are kind of screw specific in that my two hex screws protrude a little below the plate. It would be nice if there wasn't a bevel for tapered screws and something more cylindrical.

Yes it is more designed around a flat or pan head head screw, not something like a allen wrench screw like you normally find in metric (whatever you call those) Unfortunately the spacing became really tight there and I couldn't make the hole any deeper without breaking the the no less then .4mm rule. I can take another look at it though.

[TylerR]

I don't think that extra 0.5mm caused it. I printed 4 plates with the clutches and they cycle fine. I suspect this has more to do with poor printer calibrations than tolerances.

However, the bottom screw holes of the clutch plates are kind of screw specific in that my two hex screws protrude a little below the plate. It would be nice if there wasn't a bevel for tapered screws and something more cylindrical.

Also keep in mind the bevel is there to assist in a clean print. That whole no support thing. Although with such a small hole probably not as much of an issue.

[GWS]

So true my friend.

The main issue I have with it is that it's so easy to say just use a 1/2" long screw no matter what plate you print. Plus, the cover only comes in to play when you are printing a very tall plate.

I just don't see it that way, I guess. I plan to have a clutch with each and every plate I print. so each will be a plate assembly that includes a clutch and a handle.....I just don't like trying to get a plate out without a handle. I guess one could use a coupler nut and a cap screw over the nyloc. and use your 1/2" bolt. But I don't see it as being a hard thing to buy 1 1/4 screws for the taller plates......cheaper than most other options.

One thing I was thinking of doing is remaking the lid/handle the same diameter as the clutch parts as Ed did, so the same lid fits all, but then the wide lid fits all too....just leaves a little reveal that I doubt hurts anything or looks bad......will test that theory tomorrow....and if suitable a picture.

I like keeping it simple to a point.....as long as simple joins with easy.

Yes it is more designed around a flat or pan head head screw, not something like a allen wrench screw like you normally find in metric (whatever you call those) Unfortunately the spacing became really tight there and I couldn't make the hole any deeper without breaking the the no less then .4mm rule. I can take another look at it though.

Also keep in mind the bevel is there to assist in a clean print. That whole no support thing. Although with such a small hole probably not as much of an issue.

Any Ace Hardware store has Phillips head flat head machine screws, metric or SAE. But the best fit under the clutch is the 6-32 flat heads.....and they fit better than any of the metric sizes.....not to mention easier for Americans everywhere to find locally. That size head recesses just perfectly. I wouldn't change a thing.

IME, even a small hole has to be cleaned up without a bevel......IMO it's perfect the way it is....just go get a 25 cent machine screw, nyloc and nuts...

[silahtar]

I can definitely add it. I am still trying to figure out a good way to add the handle but not require longer screws to come up through, but have not come up with anything yet.

Why not add the handle to the design of the cover or screw the handle to the cover as a future add-on. You could pre-set holes with the design of the cover for the mounting handle as an option that way? The cover could be extended a bit further over the collator plate and screwed in as well...

[31QjVP]

It still makes me wonder about going back to 179.5mm as the default, but then that creates its own set of issues with other situations. Who would think 1/2mm could make such a difference either way.

I had the same issue when I printed my first clutch plate. My plates from 1.3.3 had fit well but when I printed the clutch plates I had that binding at the same points at the other two. I ended up filing back the case feeder body as my eyes couldn't see anything off in the motor mount position or the angle. It could very well be my printer though as it's been acting up lately. Will tune it up and try another plate to see if it's any better. Somewhat worried it may be the body that is off, not the plates.

[Anuccite]

Is that red PLA or something beyond my beginner skills. My #11 was red too.....sister to the green above, but more like the ugly half sister. Looked like somebody poured milk in it....uuuugly! This one looks translucent! Looks great so far....

Finished product

[TylerR]

Why not add the handle to the design of the cover or screw the handle to the cover as a future add-on. You could pre-set holes with the design of the cover for the mounting handle as an option that way? The cover could be extended a bit further over the collator plate and screwed in as well...

The handle really can't be part of the cover, because the cover is only used on tall plates. That is why Ed and GWS's handle solutions are so different. It would have to connect directly to the collator plate. Plus the cover is really designed to just snap in and be easily removable. I may throw something together at some point here.

[TylerR]

I had the same issue when I printed my first clutch plate. My plates from 1.3.3 had fit well but when I printed the clutch plates I had that binding at the same points at the other two. I ended up filing back the case feeder body as my eyes couldn't see anything off in the motor mount position or the angle. It could very well be my printer though as it's been acting up lately. Will tune it up and try another plate to see if it's any better. Somewhat worried it may be the body that is off, not the plates.

Would love to hear your result after the printer tune.

[TylerR]

Any Ace Hardware store has Phillips head flat head machine screws, metric or SAE. But the best fit under the clutch is the 6-32 flat heads.....and they fit better than any of the metric sizes.....not to mention easier for Americans everywhere to find locally. That size head recesses just perfectly. I wouldn't change a thing.

IME, even a small hole has to be cleaned up without a bevel......IMO it's perfect the way it is....just go get a 25 cent machine screw, nyloc and nuts...

Hard to disagree with this. It was designed around a 1/2" 6-32 flat head.

[TylerR]

I am considering adding another 10-15mm to the 7mm and 308 rifle bullet dropper die bodies. GWS I believe you have a hornady rifle die? If so, what is the OAL of the die?

[TylerR]

I printed a new cluch plate and also drilled the shaft on the motor so I could thread the screw all the way in on the hex portion from both sides. I *think* that solved the problem. Mostly anyway...I'll keep playing with it to see.

Interesting. Keep us updated.
Is there any truth to the printer being out of round, or was that just an optical illusion in the pictures?

[TylerR]

Not Hornady, RCBS's fairly new tube bullet feeders. Picture below: 122 mm overall length, the internal sticks out above 8 mm, so the body is 114 mm.

Feeder on the Right, M style neck expander on the Left. Pictured is actually the .223, but the .308 is identical except for diameter of the bullet shaft.

Thanks GWS,

I actually increased the die body on the .308 and 7mm dies a bit more to handle the longer cases. Also created a dedicated 300BO die set.

[Anuccite]

Thanks GWS,

I actually increased the die body on the .308 and 7mm dies a bit more to handle the longer cases. Also created a dedicated 300BO die set.

I see you did that without changing version number..... sneaky

[thump_rrr]

I am considering adding another 10-15mm to the 7mm and 308 rifle bullet dropper die bodies. GWS I believe you have a hornady rifle die? If so, what is the OAL of the die?

I will be home in 30 minutes I will post pics of the Hornady bullet feeder dies.
I am glad that you are increasing the length.
Keep in mind that’s a .45ACP pistol die I am posting.

[kc10kevin]

750 BF and case feeder all set. Decided to print up another feeder and the Lee APP. Base slide, 9mm Bullet Slide, Main Bracket all good. Printed up some inserts. 9mm works great! Extended one about 3mm for bullet feeding to make it a little smoother. .223 brass has me perplexed.

I did my due diligence and searched the forum here for any reference to make sure I didn't miss anything. Apologize if I missed something simple. .223 case insert fully seated does not allow for the case to clear. I must be doing something wrong, right? Please see the pics below and let me know....please be kind if I am doing something stupid!! lol

Thanks in advance!

[silahtar]

I have the 9mm, .44 and .45 Hornady Feed dies, let me know if you need any measurements...

[TylerR]

I see you did that without changing version number..... sneaky

I was waiting on the generator to match. v1.4.2 posted.

[TylerR]

750 BF and case feeder all set. Decided to print up another feeder and the Lee APP. Base slide, 9mm Bullet Slide, Main Bracket all good. Printed up some inserts. 9mm works great! Extended one about 3mm for bullet feeding to make it a little smoother. .223 brass has me perplexed.

I did my due diligence and searched the forum here for any reference to make sure I didn't miss anything. Apologize if I missed something simple. .223 case insert fully seated does not allow for the case to clear. I must be doing something wrong, right? Please see the pics below and let me know....please be kind if I am doing something stupid!! lol

Thanks in advance!

Looks good. The bracket is designed to have a nut between the bottom and the frame like in this picture. That should give it the correct clearance.



You mentioned making a longer insert for the bullets. When I was messing around with the really short .45's lablover sent me, I realized combining the brass and bullet insert for pistol probably wasn't the best idea, so I am going to make those separate parts like they were originally.

[kc10kevin]

Looks good. The bracket is designed to have a nut between the bottom and the frame like in this picture. That should give it the correct clearance.



You mentioned making a longer insert for the bullets. When was messing around with the really short .45's lablover sent me, I realized combining the brass and bullet insert for pistol probably wasn't the best idea, so I am going to make those separate parts like they were originally.

OK. Thanks! That's what I was thinking, but then the 9mm Bullet/brass insert would be too short for bullets. If it helps in making the dedicated 9mm bullet insert, I decreased the internal diameter of the insert to 9.5mm. Works really well.

Thanks again! I'll put the nut on.