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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #21
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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  2. #22
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    I got a updated file from the designer for that piece based on a sketch I sent him.
    Itís on the printer now
    Itís nice having a 3D printer to make stuff.


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  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I wish i had a 3d printer, i'm sure the poor thing would run 24/7 making all sorts of things

    Looking forward to seeing it in action when your parts arrive.

  4. #24
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    Ok. Itís printed. Itís tight in both collators I have. I need to file it some.
    Holding the collator in my hand nose first dropped. Base first attempted to flip. 50% flipped and 50% got pulled out of the bullet plate

    I think it was because I didnít have the angle right and I was using 41 mag bullets and a 45acp plate


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  5. #25
    I recently borrowed a 3d printer from a friend and I’m afraid I’m going to wear it out it has been running darn near 24hrs a day since I picked it up from him last Monday. It prints slow but I often catch myself walking past it and then getting stuck just watching it go it’s mesmerizing lol

  6. #26
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    Most people that have 3D printers have them running almost 24hrs a day.


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  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    My father in-law does the same with his robot vacuum, he sits and watches it, trying to predict it's path

  8. #28
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    6bg6ga -
    In reading these posts, it appears that you and Hatch have ordered components to build a bullet collator from someone named Tony, and that that device will overcome a major limitation of Mister Bulletfeeder, in having a nose down option.I must have missed some other thread somewhere, indicating who Tony is, or how to contact him.I have not been able to determine if this is an option for anyone else, or if this is a limited development project not intended for the participation of others. If there was an option to order, I would probably exercise that, but if I am intruding, or have missed something,please let me know.

  9. #29
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    I am going to be honest with you right now because I don't want you to order something that isn't what you think it is.

    As designed the unit will NOT do nose down. It is a work in progress according to the designer.
    It will do standard base down and seems to do it well based on the youtube videos.

    The design can be found here -> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314
    Keep in mind that depending on your printer and your settings it takes between 18hrs and 3 days to print.
    If your interested you might be able to find someone local to print it for you or you can contact Tony via PM and see what he says.

    A little lessson - 3d printing - Everything is printed in layers. There are 4 layer sizes commoningly used. .06, .1, .15 , and .2
    The smaller the layer size diameter the more accurate the print is, the better the print is, but the more time it takes.
    Fill - this is the space that is between the inner and outer layers. It is how SOLID the inside is.
    It can be 0 to 100% with 100% being solid plastic no voids. 0% being nothing inside. Common is 20%.
    The higher the fill the longer it takes.
    Keep in mind that layer size uses the same amount of material regardless of setting but the higher the fill % the more material you use.

    I spoke to the designer via email and he recommends a .1 layer rate and 80% fill
    On my printer, thats almost 3 days solid of printing and 1/2 a roll ($30) of the cheap filament.
    I would do .06 and 80% on the base itself and .06 and 100% on all the small pieces.

    The problem with someone else printing stuff for you is that your taking their word on what their settings are.
    Layer size can be spotted but .06 vs .1 and .1 vs .15 and .15 vs 2 look the same.
    Meaning if you wanted .06 but they printed .1 your not gonna notice.
    And your not going to notice the amount of fill is in the inside either until you drill a hole in it and find out that past the outer layer its at 20%

    Your going to have to fit everything.
    The collator plates will need to be sanded on the outer diameter. Mine rub on the inside of the base side walls.
    I used a MBF motor because it was easier and that is what I recommend. I suspect that he will stop selling them to non-customers soon

    I am going to print one myself later this week @ .06 and 80%
    gonna take 3 days worth of printing so I hope I don't get a power outage during that time LOL
    Last edited by HATCH; 03-05-2018 at 11:35 AM.
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
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  10. #30
    Boolit Bub
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    Here we go again, why did I have to find this thread?

    I have a feeling this is going to be another expensive obsession. I have a Mr. Bulletfeeder for my XL650 and have adapted it to my star sizer but it's a pain swapping back and forth. I've also been looking at 3D printers and think this project is just enough of an excuse to finally pull the trigger. Time to make a dedicated collator for the sizer.

  11. #31
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    Well this collator would be perfect for the 650. Itís a work in progress for nose down though


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  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    A few days ago, following a link from somewhere to youtube, the linked video or another that came up afterward, there was a video showing a mechanism to turn a bullet from base down to nose down. There was a disk about 3 inch diameter with 4 cavities around the circumference. The collator dropped the bullet base first through a tube into the top of the disk, which as it rotated dropped the bullet nose first into another tube.

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulav8r View Post
    A few days ago, following a link from somewhere to youtube, the linked video or another that came up afterward, there was a video showing a mechanism to turn a bullet from base down to nose down. There was a disk about 3 inch diameter with 4 cavities around the circumference. The collator dropped the bullet base first through a tube into the top of the disk, which as it rotated dropped the bullet nose first into another tube.
    As Charles has mentioned we are struggling with the nose down operation of the collator. With the present nose down plate I cannot get it to work. I'm going to give it a go this weekend and see what I can come up with and if I can get it working I will share my findings. Having said the above it would be highly possible to add the bullet flipper for a lack of a better word Jmorris's bullet flipping station that has the bullets traveling into a tube and going almost straight up and then gravity causes it to fall nose down. Its a simple solution to the difficult problem of getting bullets to go nose down.

    I don't have the link to Jmorris's bullet flipper but it is a simple elegant solution to the problem. There are other you tube videos that show a circular wheel that simply turns and drops the bullet nose down. * THIS would be something helpful if someone could print up either. I would be willing to buy either.

    If I can borrow some mill time in a friends machine shop or talk my boss into letting me use the one that is sitting idle in the shop I could easily machine a plate that would allow for a nose down drop. However, the problem of the bullets that sit on their base is still there and needs to be solved.

    At any rate this is DIY and as a result has its share of problems and solutions in good time. The problems will be solved and I would say to those currrently on the fence to weigh the problems and the possibility of solutions arriving shortly.

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    As Charles has mentioned we are struggling with the nose down operation of the collator. With the present nose down plate I cannot get it to work. I'm going to give it a go this weekend and see what I can come up with and if I can get it working I will share my findings. Having said the above it would be highly possible to add the bullet flipper for a lack of a better word Jmorris's bullet flipping station that has the bullets traveling into a tube and going almost straight up and then gravity causes it to fall nose down. Its a simple solution to the difficult problem of getting bullets to go nose down.

    I don't have the link to Jmorris's bullet flipper but it is a simple elegant solution to the problem. There are other you tube videos that show a circular wheel that simply turns and drops the bullet nose down. * THIS would be something helpful if someone could print up either. I would be willing to buy either.

    If I can borrow some mill time in a friends machine shop or talk my boss into letting me use the one that is sitting idle in the shop I could easily machine a plate that would allow for a nose down drop. However, the problem of the bullets that sit on their base is still there and needs to be solved.

    At any rate this is DIY and as a result has its share of problems and solutions in good time. The problems will be solved and I would say to those currrently on the fence to weigh the problems and the possibility of solutions arriving shortly.
    Check post #21 for the bullet flipper

  15. #35
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    I appreciate the update regarding the status of this project, and intend to follow it along. I have had some modest results with an adapter to the mr. Bullet feeder to do nose down, but not enough to propose it to anyone else.

  16. #36
    It took some time but I designed and 3d printed an adaptor for the mr bullet feeder that so far has worked reliably with 45 200gr SWC, 230gr RN, 225gr TCFP, 9mm 115gr Rn. I had some trouble with 38 158gr SWC but not sure if these would even feed reliably base down. They stick up quite a bit past the top of the 9mm/38 plate and so while being flipped over actually get flipped completely out of the slot in the disk with some falling back into the cooalator and some not coming all the way out of the slot and laying sideways where they jam up the collator. https://youtu.be/a1TeExjkbfY
    https://youtu.be/dY8nXYSzZfA
    https://youtu.be/LNRPPYvEt-g
    https://youtu.be/Ku-8rlTcvHA

  17. #37
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    The J flipper (j Morris gravity flipper) would work but I think the collator can be made to work. Just got to figure it out.
    Maybe a complete redesign.
    Have to play with it.


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  18. #38
    Boolit Bub
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    I too made an adapter to work with the Mr. Bulletfeeder that works reliably except for WC bullets. I'm going to print out one of these collators and start working on the nose down adapter. If I can't get it to work I'll use this feeder on the xl650 and the Mr. Bulletfeeder on the sizer.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    Just saw the video in post 21. Very neat. Using Internet Explorer, the videos do not show in my browser. I have to reply using quote, then copy the link and post it in a new tab to see the videos: however, this time I opened the thread with Opera and the video displays in the post.

    Yes, Jmorris's bullet flipper could be printed, but it would probably be quicker and cheaper to fabricate from a plastic cutting board and a sheet of plexiglass/lexan/acrylic sheet. Variables to be accounted for in design: bullet length/weight will affect required distance before entering, the minimum radius of channel and the distance past entry into final drop; diameter will determine width and depth of channel. There may also be others.

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShGDpy9GT5Q

    My version made with a table saw, drill press, router and some time. The nose flipper was actually the simple part. I struggled with the drop tube mouth the most, because the speed of the motor may be just a little quicker than it should be. This video is made before I actually finished the entire thing.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check