Making that Bullet Collator

[djinnpb]

Got my PRD18-14DN2 in and tested with the original thicker wall drop tuber that gave me issues with the other sensors for brass.. Works like a champ even with jiggling. So indeed not all sensors are created equal and the PRD18-14DN2 is truly the better one out there. One handy bit with the induction sensors is being able to quickly power them from a bench supply and quickly test them out. I am a convert now!

[Gussers]

Unfortunately, Tinkercad can't load the base, it's too big a file. Also, the hole placement seems optimal to me. The rearmost holes are best for being able to mount the body and tilt it rearward. The bracket is also placed under the weight of the bullets or cases as opposed to the side where there is more leverage. I also noticed printing the AM bullet feeder there are 3 different files. What I'm suggesting is the offset of the motor would mean all those versions aren't necessary as the 45 degree mounting would allow access to all the existing holes. There could be one body for the smaller 370 motor and one body for the larger version of that motor. It's also the difference between buying a $28 motor and a $75 motor. If the less expensive one has the same specs and the only downside is it interferes with mounting, they why not change the mounting slightly so it doesn't interfere? It simplifies the number of versions that need to be maintained and lowers the overall cost considerably.

[TylerR]

Well the good news is my slip clutch works beautifully. The bad news for lablover is that even though I have the 160's dropping thru the collator hole reliably, they tend to get caught up somewhere else on the way down. 190's are working nicely.

[TylerR]

Unfortunately, Tinkercad can't load the base, it's too big a file. Also, the hole placement seems optimal to me. The rearmost holes are best for being able to mount the body and tilt it rearward. The bracket is also placed under the weight of the bullets or cases as opposed to the side where there is more leverage. I also noticed printing the AM bullet feeder there are 3 different files. What I'm suggesting is the offset of the motor would mean all those versions aren't necessary as the 45 degree mounting would allow access to all the existing holes. There could be one body for the smaller 370 motor and one body for the larger version of that motor. It's also the difference between buying a $28 motor and a $75 motor. If the less expensive one has the same specs and the only downside is it interferes with mounting, they why not change the mounting slightly so it doesn't interfere? It simplifies the number of versions that need to be maintained and lowers the overall cost considerably.

Which motor are you considering?

[Gussers]

Which motor are you considering?

Something like this one. I'm using the smaller 370 type motor now on the bullet feeder. I can see the bigger motor would probably be better on the larger case collator. The torque specs appear to be similar to the 12v gear motor from McMaster.

[noacess]

Something like this one. I'm using the smaller 370 type motor now on the bullet feeder. I can see the bigger motor would probably be better on the larger case collator. The torque specs appear to be similar to the 12v gear motor from McMaster.

The motor you linked works with the Main_Body_M634JS body. Thats the motor I use.

[bigmike111]

The motor you linked works with the Main_Body_M634JS body. Thats the motor I use.

How is that motor working out for you? I am considering trying that motor because the Mcmaster/Grainger motors are a little excessive for this application.

[lablover]

Well the good news is my slip clutch works beautifully. The bad news for lablover is that even though I have the 160's dropping thru the collator hole reliably, they tend to get caught up somewhere else on the way down. 190's are working nicely.

Looking forward to what you did. I’m going to abandon the 160s as I now don’t thing they control recoil that much compared to the 190s. Btw, the 190s are my favorite bullet. As a matter of fact the 190s result is fabulous news! And the clutch! Can’t wait to see that.

[RedlegEd]

Hi all,
Does anyone here use a 3mm printer? In my old age and lack of attention to detail, I inadvertently ordered some 2.85mm Black Polymaker Polymax instead of the normal 1.75mm. If so, and you'd be interested in a trade or purchasing my oversize filament, please shoot me a PM. Unfortunately, I already opened the sealed bag when I realized what I did, so I can't return it to Amazon.
Thanks,
Ed

[TylerR]

Looking forward to what you did. I’m going to abandon the 160s as I now don’t thing they control recoil that much compared to the 190s. Btw, the 190s are my favorite bullet. As a matter of fact the 190s result is fabulous news! And the clutch! Can’t wait to see that.

Well here is a combo video of your 190's and the slip clutch in action.

[RedlegEd]

Well here is a combo video of your 190's and the slip clutch in action.

Excellent! Does exactly what it should do. great job.
Ed

[djinnpb]

Well here is a combo video of your 190's and the slip clutch in action.

That slip clutch looks like it works really well! How cool is that!!

[TylerR]

Thanks guys. I just posted the files. There are two versions, one with a 10mm shaft diameter and one with an 8.5mm shaft.
I also posted a new version of the generator to create the plate. It has a new parameter:

// SHAFT SLIP CLUTCH
useClutch = true; // Allows use of a slip clutch

Also, the collator plate needs to be printed with supports to handle the bottom side of the clutch rotor.

You can use two #6 x 1/2" or 3mm screws, and a couple of lock nuts. If you are using it on a really thick plate (anything over 15 mm or so), there is also a cover to cover the center hole. Give it a try and let me know what you think. Oh and sorry hex guys but there is no hex version yet.

[31QjVP]

I wouldn't want to share my Gcode file, as it may not be right for your printer....

If you followed the instructions on creating a Collator plate in the Documentation, and then used your slicer, with the video.... You should be all set.

I think you may have mis-understood. I'm not looking for the GCode, I'm looking for a good STL. The problem I have is with the collator plate that OpenSCAD is generating. It only has 3 brass slots when there is room around the edges for more. I was looking for anyone possibly having a good STL file from OpenSCAD. Or, if anyone has guidance on how to get more slots in the generated plate I'd be open to that as well.

And to be sure I'm clear, here is what I see in OpenSCAD using the sample config provided for large rifle. Seeing as the STL file that is included in the download has a large brass plate with more slots, I was hoping the generator could be able to do same.

[TylerR]

I think you may have mis-understood. I'm not looking for the GCode, I'm looking for a good STL. The problem I have is with the collator plate that OpenSCAD is generating. It only has 3 brass slots when there is room around the edges for more. I was looking for anyone possibly having a good STL file from OpenSCAD. Or, if anyone has guidance on how to get more slots in the generated plate I'd be open to that as well.

And to be sure I'm clear, here is what I see in OpenSCAD using the sample config provided for large rifle. Seeing as the STL file that is included in the download has a large brass plate with more slots, I was hoping the generator could be able to do same.

You need to play around with the hole_multiplier param. The lower the number the more bullets hole/slots it will create.

hole_multiplier=1.5; // Modify the number of holes

[31QjVP]

You need to play around with the hole_multiplier param. The lower the number the more bullets hole/slots it will create.

hole_multiplier=1.5; // Modify the number of holes

Thank you! I figured I had to be missing something. Much better now, set it down to 1 and have what I was trying to get.

[TylerR]

Thank you! I figured I had to be missing something. Much better now, set it down to 1 and have what I was trying to get.

You bet! That generator will pretty much do anything but make your morning coffee at this point

[kc10kevin]

Thanks guys. I just posted the files. There are two versions, one with a 10mm shaft diameter and one with an 8.5mm shaft.
I also posted a new version of the generator to create the plate. It has a new parameter:

// SHAFT SLIP CLUTCH
useClutch = true; // Allows use of a slip clutch

Also, the collator plate needs to be printed with supports to handle the bottom side of the clutch rotor.

You can use two #6 x 1/2" or 3mm screws, and a couple of lock nuts. If you are using it on a really thick plate (anything over 15 mm or so), there is also a cover to cover the center hole. Give it a try and let me know what you think. Oh and sorry hex guys but there is no hex version yet.

Awesome!!! Love the clutch. I see your comment...no Hex version. "Yet." I assume you are planning on making one for us Hex guys? I don't have any shafts drilled/pinned. Something like this?

[thump_rrr]

Thanks guys. I just posted the files. There are two versions, one with a 10mm shaft diameter and one with an 8.5mm shaft.
I also posted a new version of the generator to create the plate. It has a new parameter:

// SHAFT SLIP CLUTCH
useClutch = true; // Allows use of a slip clutch

Also, the collator plate needs to be printed with supports to handle the bottom side of the clutch rotor.

You can use two #6 x 1/2" or 3mm screws, and a couple of lock nuts. If you are using it on a really thick plate (anything over 15 mm or so), there is also a cover to cover the center hole. Give it a try and let me know what you think. Oh and sorry hex guys but there is no hex version yet.

Amazing work Tyler.
I've been scouring the forum tying to determine pin dimensions and placement.
So far the only mention I've found was on page 59 mentioning a 5/32" diameter pin.

[bigmike111]

Well here is a combo video of your 190's and the slip clutch in action.

Great work as usual.

You know what else is awesome about this is the fact that now there is a center piece that can be printed at a greater infill percentage and/or additional walls for a stronger part that doesn't effect the rest of the plate which can be printed at a lower wall/infill percentage using less filament and taking less time. It likely won't matter at this point because with the clutch action the possibility of damaging the plates is almost non existent.