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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark2215 View Post
    Charles, the first picture looks horrible.

    I assembled mine today. I modified the flipper and the base wall in front of the flipper. What I did was shorten the flipper considerably and put a notch in the base wall so the flipper could move further. What was happening was the flipper was holding the bullets in too long not allowing the nose down bullets to drop through the plate. By modifying the flipper the bullets were clear of the flipper by the time they reached the hole. Once I did this I had 100% success with the 2 different 9mm bullets I had, one was a flat nose and the other a round nose, both bevel bases.

    Attachment 215865Attachment 215866
    Hi Mark,

    you are right, I am working on a new design for the flipper that can be used with nosedown plates. A solution without printing a new whole base should be possible.

    Mike

    P.S.: really nice and solid print, btw!

  2. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    My machine came in today and thanks to Hatch I have a better than good starting point. Somehow I got the machine before the filimant so I ran a supposedly better fan shroud for the extruder with the little spool that came with the machine.

    I’ll try and catch up soon....

    Edit: Oh, no! The dreaded rotated left photos...
    Its nice to see jmorris jump on the band wagon. I'm sure we can look forward to some amazing stuff from his talented mind. Good Job!!!

  3. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark2215 View Post

    I did find a new problem. A 9mm flat nose bullet is getting jammed every once in a while. When it drops through the hole in the turning plate and entering the spring housing the flat nose of the bullet gets caught on the spring itself and starts a jam. Would it be possible to have the spring mounted in a recessed area the diameter of the outside of the spring and the rest of the spring housing be the same diameter internally inside as the spring and widen out from there? Basically a step in the last part of the spring housing that would hold the spring. I could always drill out a small housing to hold a large spring and give it a test.
    I modified my small spring housing to hold the large spring. It works however I drilled the countersunk hole for the spring off center, I just couldn't clamp it solid enough to do a good job drilling. I just need to make sure I put the flush side down when screwing the housing to the plate.

  4. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark2215 View Post
    I modified my small spring housing to hold the large spring. It works however I drilled the countersunk hole for the spring off center, I just couldn't clamp it solid enough to do a good job drilling. I just need to make sure I put the flush side down when screwing the housing to the plate.
    There are several different springs out there, with different OD. Here a picture how to handle it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    There are several different springs out there, with different OD. Here a picture how to handle it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hi Mike,

    Are you using a refrigeration tubing spring that is used to bend copper pipe as your delivery tube to the dropper? I like that plastic piece. I assume it attaches to the bottom of the collator? Another piece I didn't get.

    I just saw a set of those springs in the hardware store for roughly $6.00 ea if that i what your using.

  6. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    Hi Mike,

    Are you using a refrigeration tubing spring that is used to bend copper pipe as your delivery tube to the dropper? I like that plastic piece. I assume it attaches to the bottom of the collator? Another piece I didn't get.

    I just saw a set of those springs in the hardware store for roughly $6.00 ea if that i what your using.
    Please read the instructions on thingiverse

    Springs: https://www.doublealpha.biz/mrbullet...ension-adaptor „Two sizes are available. The Small (10mm inner diameter) matches the springs used with the rifle caliber machines and the large size (12mm inner diameter) as shipped with the pistol calibers.”

  7. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    There are several different springs out there, with different OD. Here a picture how to handle it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm using the MBF spring so there is no expanded end like the spring in the picture.

  8. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark2215 View Post
    I'm using the MBF spring so there is no expanded end like the spring in the picture.
    Take a pair of pliers and enlarge the first few "rings" of the spring a bit. That makes a good fit in the spring housing.

  9. #249
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    I have to do something different. I cannot in good conscience purchase too much from MBF. a refrigeration spring for 3/8 tubing and 1/2" tubing are what I'm going to try for roughly $12.00 for the pair plus tax. I have several in my tool box if memory is correct but they may have some rust on them so new is in order.

  10. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    I have to do something different. I cannot in good conscience purchase too much from MBF. a refrigeration spring for 3/8 tubing and 1/2" tubing are what I'm going to try for roughly $12.00 for the pair plus tax. I have several in my tool box if memory is correct but they may have some rust on them so new is in order.
    That was just and expample. You can also use PETG tubing and a heatgun, or copper tubing, or scotty to beam them to the drop tube.

  11. #251
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    Maybe copper tubing with a flare at the collator end? I still have some refrigeration tools left.

  12. #252
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    LMAO
    For a second I was like what the heck is Scotty?
    Then I reread and caught the Star Trek reference


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  13. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    Maybe copper tubing with a flare at the collator end? I still have some refrigeration tools left.
    Good idea, if you have the tools for that. Or do a simple "cross cut" into the tubing and bend the cuts a little bit to the outside, so it can fit the inner wall of the housing. (just an idea. i am not a plumber )

  14. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    Good idea, if you have the tools for that. Or do a simple "cross cut" into the tubing and bend the cuts a little bit to the outside, so it can fit the inner wall of the housing. (just an idea. i am not a plumber )
    I gotta get me a 3D printer. Too bad I just had to buy the missing parts for my AR-15. I had to do it because I had a lower that was completely built and it kept calling to me to finish it. Maybe next month.

  15. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark2215 View Post
    Charles, the first picture looks horrible.

    I assembled mine today. I modified the flipper and the base wall in front of the flipper. What I did was shorten the flipper considerably and put a notch in the base wall so the flipper could move further. What was happening was the flipper was holding the bullets in too long not allowing the nose down bullets to drop through the plate. By modifying the flipper the bullets were clear of the flipper by the time they reached the hole. Once I did this I had 100% success with the 2 different 9mm bullets I had, one was a flat nose and the other a round nose, both bevel bases.

    Attachment 215865Attachment 215866
    I modified the flipper. It has an eliptical shape now, not interfering with the drop hole.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	215903Click image for larger version. 

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    what do you think?
    Last edited by AmmoMike83; 03-07-2018 at 11:43 AM.

  16. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    I have to do something different. I cannot in good conscience purchase too much from MBF. a refrigeration spring for 3/8 tubing and 1/2" tubing are what I'm going to try for roughly $12.00 for the pair plus tax. I have several in my tool box if memory is correct but they may have some rust on them so new is in order.
    All that is needed from Double Alpha is the extension spring $11 (the MBF spring is WAY easier to use as it is way more flexible than tubing benders), the MBF motor $25 and the MBF drop die $49.. everything else is printed, or if you utilize my idea for mounting a piece of 3/4" square tubing from Home Depot for universal stand either from the press body or from anywhere on your bench then you can use my square tubing adapter I will post on thingiverse.

    I will be Posting the 9 mm and .45 drop tubes that work for the Lee BD system. as well as a version for the RCBS drop die, all for the optical sensor only. Should have them up here within the next week or so on my Thingiverse (once I figure out how to upload the files) , and I'm sure Mike will link to them as I will send him the files as well to add to the original project.

    Gerry G

  17. #257
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    What printers and filament are you all using? (Anet A8 or A6) (ABS, PLA) (1.75 or 3.0).


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  18. #258
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    Making that Bullet Collator

    Anet a8 , pla 1.75

    Btw cheap $40’per 2 rolls

    Had to look it up


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    Last edited by HATCH; 03-07-2018 at 04:43 PM.
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  19. #259
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    Monoprice maker select plus using Hatchbox pla 1.75 $22 shipped per roll on amazon.

  20. #260
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    Monoprice maker select plus, 1.25, glass on bed (stock bed was warped). Solutech PLA from Amazon, $20 per roll.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check