Making that Bullet Collator

[noacess]

No having great success with my long bullet slide. I am redesigning it right now to see if I can get it working.

Inspiration is the mother of invention:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQUcjVnAGfs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2p-tJ66wjTI

[lablover]

Just finished the .223 die....absolutely perfect, zero sanding, trimming...nothing. Oh yea,I’m gonna like this!

[lablover]

TylerR: That's the only weakness in 3d printing for prototyping....harder to tinker with. I'd be grinding off what didn't work and forming 5 minute epoxy putty in another shape to try...for the prototype only. Prototypes don't have to be pretty.

Speaking of pretty, my base finished ...... 39 hours was a bad guess on IdeaMaker's part. 44 hours. Probably due to the "adaptive" thicknesses maybe? They've been pretty close for normal prints. Best looking print I've done. Pictures later today.

Was it perfect.....it is BEAUTIFUL! So mostly yes, except for the two sharp corners either side of the slider.....they both raised off the base again, but I desided the fix was easy since layers above the groove were perfect, and the rise was maybe 1/8". Don't know why, the rest of the base was a bit hard to break loose, even. I don't get it. Time to get out a file and shape that groove the last 1/2" inch.

Speaking of "adaptive"? IdeaMaker also has "adaptive infill". That's interesting. With it turned on the software decides on infill density, and towards the top of a print density gets denser so that the top solid layers are smoother.

I can relate to that. This latest print's only negative is that the surface the collator wheel rides on isn't as smooth as I'd prefer due to the 18% infill. I thought 4 layers over it would smooth is out more than 2 layers, but I didn't see any difference.

Oh! BTW! the Dayton motors fit absolutely perfect! So add them to the list for the EZ-ZGMP38 base.

Hey GWS
I’m surprised your prints are lifting. I can tell you what I do with the exact same bed. I took it to the sink and cleaned it well with soap and water. Then I use this stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Magigoo-Pen-A...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Last forever and when it gets funky I wash the plate off and do it over again. I put a lite coat where the print is going before every print. When the bed cools the print comes right off. I know creality does not recommend it but it works. They also don’t recommend using acetone as well sooooo. Ever since I started using it I have never ever had a print lift. Again, this is with the same bed you have. Also bed temp is 50 deg c

[GWS]

Hey GWS
I’m surprised your prints are lifting. I can tell you what I do with the exact same bed. I took it to the sink and cleaned it well with soap and water. Then I use this stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Magigoo-Pen-A...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Last forever and when it gets funky I wash the plate off and do it over again. I put a lite coat where the print is going before every print. When the bed cools the print comes right off. I know creality does not recommend it but it works. They also don’t recommend using acetone as well sooooo. Ever since I started using it I have never ever had a print lift. Again, this is with the same bed you have. Also bed temp is 50 deg c

The acetone worked for all of the print except the two sharp corners.....heck the rest of it I had to use an inverted chisel to start the lift after the bed was cold! And there's just about as many methods as users! I'll probably buy some of your goo too. But I'm happy with the print.....all it took was a utility knife to carve the slide slots in the corners a little and they work perfect.

Here's the finished pictures! Notice the flat bands around the bucket and the glossy ones. .2mm and .12mm bands....the latter were glossier. But it looks great to me!


Above: If you look close you can see the two lifted corners....but that was a minor fix. Knowing that the Nozzle doesn't lift even if there is a minor corner lift, means some layers are even thinner until the level equals out, so the error didn't continue very high. The whitish areas in each corner is where I trimmed the grooves so the slides slide in......wasn't a big deal, obviously. I'm thankful, as I've seen (and experienced) way worse.



And for noaccess who was asking about Motors....as I posted to TylerR, I'm happy to report that the motor I have fits absolutely perfect and it's a Dayton, not a EZ-ZGMP38. Bet most of these similar motors are based on the same specs. I just have to find two more nuts! Why is it that the parts drawers are always just one or two short of what I need?....always....

[lablover]

Yea that’s a pretty awesome print for sure

[GWS]

Yea that’s a pretty awesome print for sure

After enduring another 5 hours past the projected finish....44 hours....it better be!

TylerR, Creality, and IdeaMaker (and RedlegEd behind the scenes coaching, plus his Acetone save) get the credit. This 3DP beginner is appreciative!!

[lablover]

I have a question and a request. Question first. I need to make a collator plate for .32 acp. These bullets are tiny to say the least. .312 diameter and 9.32mm tall for the 60 gr and 12.45mm tall for the 85 gr. Should I just use the standard pistol bullet height for the collator plate? Or try to adjust the height. I can see those little 60 gr bullets wanting to go sideways and getting jammed between the collator plate and bowl wall.

Request for Tyler . And, this is by no means pressing as I already have one but your design seems to be working so much better for me. How hard would it be to make a die for .32 acp. You can see the specs above and also to add to that my lead is .314 diameter. Again, not a huge deal if you can’t .

Joe

[o416]

Hi Tyler,

Your base has two holes for the ramp whereas the ramp itself has only one hole. Did I miss something? Loving your design btw

Thx!

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler,

Your base has two holes for the ramp whereas the ramp itself has only one hole. Did I miss something? Loving your design btw

Thx!

Yes, I removed the second hole because it was pointless since the ramp sits in a channel now. Just use the center hole and you'll be good.

[TylerR]

I have a question and a request. Question first. I need to make a collator plate for .32 acp. These bullets are tiny to say the least. .312 diameter and 9.32mm tall for the 60 gr and 12.45mm tall for the 85 gr. Should I just use the standard pistol bullet height for the collator plate? Or try to adjust the height. I can see those little 60 gr bullets wanting to go sideways and getting jammed between the collator plate and bowl wall.

Request for Tyler . And, this is by no means pressing as I already have one but your design seems to be working so much better for me. How hard would it be to make a die for .32 acp. You can see the specs above and also to add to that my lead is .314 diameter. Again, not a huge deal if you can’t .

Joe

With the collator plate, the diameter of the caliber has more to do with sideways bullets then the height of the plate. If you are concerned about sideways bullets you need to set the caliber to be just slightly over the actual diameter of the bullet, keeping in mind it adds 1.2mm by default.

I can look to make a .32 version of the dropper, but you will have to give me a bit as I am struggling with these long rifle bullet plates at the moment.

[o416]

So I printed the base at Standard Quality (0.2mm) and the ramp at Super Quality (0.16mm) and the damn hole won't align lol

3D printing is so frustrating when it comes to accuracy

I printed the ramp vertically as opposed to horizontally but I doubt it matters.

[wrinkles]

TylerR, I downloaded your files and printed out the 9mm bullet feeder dies. The feed die body will not screw into my Dillon 650 or Lee Pro 1000. They go in about 1/3 of inch and stick. I've printed out two of them with the same results. Printer is an Anet et4+ 40 fill, pla no supports. I printed out another feeder die I found on thingyverse and that one screw on. Is there some sizing I need to do on your's? Don't like the other version because I can't fit a drop tube on it.

[Falconpunch]

I hope this helps someone, wiring is not my thing and took me a bit to figure it out. This works and can explain more if need.

[Falconpunch]

TylerR, I downloaded your files and printed out the 9mm bullet feeder dies. The feed die body will not screw into my Dillon 650 or Lee Pro 1000. They go in about 1/3 of inch and stick. I've printed out two of them with the same results. Printer is an Anet et4+ 40 fill, pla no supports. I printed out another feeder die I found on thingyverse and that one screw on. Is there some sizing I need to do on your's? Don't like the other version because I can't fit a drop tube on it.

Mine fit in my 550/Hornady ap. I used PLA .2 LH.

[TylerR]

TylerR, I downloaded your files and printed out the 9mm bullet feeder dies. The feed die body will not screw into my Dillon 650 or Lee Pro 1000. They go in about 1/3 of inch and stick. I've printed out two of them with the same results. Printer is an Anet et4+ 40 fill, pla no supports. I printed out another feeder die I found on thingyverse and that one screw on. Is there some sizing I need to do on your's? Don't like the other version because I can't fit a drop tube on it.

I print mine with .4 nozzle and .12 layer height and they screw in perfect. So far other users have said they have not had problems, so I would try printing them using fine settings.

[TylerR]

So I printed the base at Standard Quality (0.2mm) and the ramp at Super Quality (0.16mm) and the damn hole won't align lol

3D printing is so frustrating when it comes to accuracy

I printed the ramp vertically as opposed to horizontally but I doubt it matters.

I print the ramp with the long flat side (the one with the hole) on the build plate.

[GWS]

TylerR, I downloaded your files and printed out the 9mm bullet feeder dies. The feed die body will not screw into my Dillon 650 or Lee Pro 1000. They go in about 1/3 of inch and stick. I've printed out two of them with the same results. Printer is an Anet et4+ 40 fill, pla no supports. I printed out another feeder die I found on thingyverse and that one screw on. Is there some sizing I need to do on your's? Don't like the other version because I can't fit a drop tube on it.

If you know somebody who has a 7/8" x 14 thread die, you could screw that on carefully and maybe save you a reprint. Lots of learning curve on threads, and the fine setting make a HUGE difference there and most likely where the ball bearings seat as well. What slicer be ye using....?

[lablover]

With the collator plate, the diameter of the caliber has more to do with sideways bullets then the height of the plate. If you are concerned about sideways bullets you need to set the caliber to be just slightly over the actual diameter of the bullet, keeping in mind it adds 1.2mm by default.

I can look to make a .32 version of the dropper, but you will have to give me a bit as I am struggling with these long rifle bullet plates at the moment.

No worries at all. I have one but it’s nowhere near as good as your design. Thanks Tyler

[lablover]

I print mine with .4 nozzle and .12 layer height and they screw in perfect. So far other users have said they have not had problems, so I would try printing them using fine settings.

I’ve also been printing the dies at .12 and the fit is exceptional!

I’m finding myself printing at .12 and .16 most of the time now. Less hassle for parts that need to fit together.

[wrinkles]

I was using .2 layer height. I'll try .12 I did a lot of sanding on the threads and was able to get it to screw in. Also had to sand the inside wall and the outer tube on the inner tube to get the two parts to fit. I then sanded the ID on the inner tube so that the bullet would drop. Got it working. Thanks all.