Nice setup. That would definitely alleviate the issue I mentioned. I need to work out something similar. I am actually using a spring for my case feeding too so I can't anchor off of that plastic tube.
Rendition #8 just went on the printer. Talk about wasted plastic. lol
Most of the way done making the spring adapter. Just need to plan a way to actually insert the spring into it which will take some thinking. Current progress here. It's actually been faster than I thought. Thank you for making the design with nice mostly round numbers TylerR.
That was one of the routes I was going to take. The original part was just smooth, having gravity hold it in place and take advantage of the conical shape. It might even be able to be threaded in on its own like you would put a key on a key ring. I'll test that out tonight.
Are you guys not using rubber bands or springs to pull the two halves together?
Don't order something from Amazon late at night when your tired and stupid. I ordered some brake line spring protector Saturday nite and early Sunday morning I realized that tho the OD was perfect, the ID was too small for .22 bullets.....yeah....dumb! Tried to cancel, and even tho they hadn't shipped yet they wouldn't.....A holes.
So today I went to Ace Hardware and bought two short 6" springs that were perfect for my drop tube......so what do you do with two? They each screwed into the top of the feeder die and the bottom of the proximity switch, perfectly. Then I just made a "view port" in between.
Above: View port just required 3 short pieces of thinline rigid tubing, two 3/8 OD, and one 5/16 OD. Just applied a single drop of slow set super glue about a 1/4" from each end of the 5/16, and pushed/rotated the 3/8 tubes half way on the smaller center tube. It set in about 30 seconds, and I was ready to roll.
Springs cost me $2 each. Anybody need some brake line protector......I don't think I will ever reload 17 caliber.
Last edited by GWS; 11-02-2020 at 08:27 PM.
Andar, what I've ended up doing with all my springs is just make the hole a tad smaller than the spring, with threads, but I don't worry about special thread design anymore. I found that if you screw on the tubing the same direction as the spring turns.....making the spring tighter in diameter it just slips on.....and I can push it in a long ways that way. Then when you let it go it unwinds, tightening against the threads, which just act as friction as opposed to being against slick smooth insides.
The .223 ones in my last post, I didn't even have threads, but at that size I just ran a 5/16 X24 die in each end carefully to make them rough inside....then just pushed my Ace Hardware springs in as described above. They won't come out unless I turn them tight and pull hard. Works for me....
GWS, I'd try that but the springs I bought are conical on one end as they're meant to go over or inside pipes to help bend them without kinking as seen here. Like a spring door stopper. Gravity holds the spring in place perfectly and it won't come out if you tug on it unless you do it hard enough to deform the shape.
Turns out I won't have to make threads, as I can just spin it into place. I'll print out the part tomorrow to see how it works.
I've got rubber bands on one and an oring on another. I even use a rubber band on my DAA 30 cal one seems way more reliable that way.
Will be welding up a mount (still figuring the best way) and using the mount you designed TylerR. Question though, any issue with not having the tilting ability side to side? My AM one I use the spines on the X and Y so I can adjust either way. Of course it may be overkill and not needed, especially with the wider slide area.
Also, I have printed all the slides, quite the collection of those and great job with the side labels. Very cool. Can't wait to spin this one up.
Just posted v1.0.9
- Collator generator v2.0.7 with changes to ridges with new parameters.
- All stock bullet collator plates have been generated with ridges and no slides.
- Minor changes to drop tubes for better reliability.
- Added 45acp feed die. Uses one 4mm ball bearing. 4 different bullet heights spaced 1mm apart. Feedback welcome.
- Added bullet compatibility chart. I am looking for feedback on this one so we can make it more comprehensive.
Last edited by TylerR; 11-02-2020 at 10:23 PM.
I've seen those benders.....I was going to get around to checking them out at an autosupply store but haven't. The only thing that bothered me is... if they are strong enough to bend brake lines and such, are they too stiff, too big wirewise for down tubes......but I wouldn't know never having seen them. And I suppose some are cheaper and lighter than others......maybe the lighter the better?
As for the coned end, if I had one I was just planning to grind it off...... But what do I know?
I hope that turns out to be the best move for the project.......my test with .223 isn't a big enough sample to be sure if that's the best way for everything......assuming you and others have data or experience too with the bigger calibers? I don't want to get lynched....
Last edited by GWS; 11-03-2020 at 12:44 AM.
Yes, if people report back that they had success with a particular bullet and slide plate, including specific casting molds, I will add it to the chart. There are some things that I could assume, for instance I am fairly sure the #4 plate will probably work with most all 9mm bullets, I would prefer to only add ones that have been positively tested. Where it would really shine is some of these more challenging bullet designs, hollow points, bevel bases, boat tails, etc.....
Haha. I hear ya man! I am going to be printing the plates over the next couple of days and will do my testing. I will definitely be testing 9mm, 45acp, 40sw and 44mag. Lablover can maybe provide some feedback as well.
That being said, I think the logic behind the change is very solid, and of course people have the option to generate their own plates if they are more comfortable with the slides.
With my first printed bullet feeder now excelling at doing .223 for my Pro Chucker 7, it's finally time to print out the big base and see if it will collate .223 and .308 cases for the same Press. That means joining the genuine TylerR big base club. Now I need to go to back pages and see what's the best way to do those calibers. Any tips on the most important posts and prints?
I also need to make a bullet plate for the .30 caliber rifle, but that will be project #3. So much to do so little time.
It's helps that I'm already good in the pistol bullet collating department with my modified pre-3d-printed flippered Hornady. I want to see you guys match that beginner's luck rendition and print .45,.357,.40, 9mm with one plate! Its easier than you think if you drop bullets to the bottom of the base before you drop them through the down tube hole.......that's the trick.
I never showed you guys that mod in Ammo Mike's base for the .223/.45 nose down collator either .... I can take it apart tomorrow and take some more pictures, if anyone's interested......or I can just keep it a secret I guess...
This is going to be a busiest winter I've had in years............sounds great to me.......even if I don't make a dime doing it.......
BTW......Everybody VOTE tomorrow if you haven't already! That's an order! We're out of time.....
Last edited by GWS; 11-03-2020 at 01:17 AM.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |