1/2” brake line proctor springs will work for large output springs.
It looks like this company ships to Canada:
https://www.thestopshop.com/products...nt=39651924498
You can usually find these springs on Amazon to.
1/2” brake line proctor springs will work for large output springs.
It looks like this company ships to Canada:
https://www.thestopshop.com/products...nt=39651924498
You can usually find these springs on Amazon to.
cdstang found this motor which looks promising.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10RPM-Metal....c101111.m2109
I went ahead and added a body that will fit that motor. Depending on how it is oriented it will interfere with the other mount holes by a few mm, so I made it possible to orient in 3 different directions.
It has been posted. I went ahead and changed the link to a folder so the link will remain active now.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...vV?usp=sharing
>40SW be nice.
Whew! Made it to the end of the thread. Many thanks to all that have participated.
Lots of good information buried in those 48 pages. One thing I never saw a link for in all of those pages was a link for the adapter that couples the collator plate to the motor shaft when using the JGY370 motor.. I've seen a few different versions and was wondering if people are just rolling their own or if there is a file available that they'd like to share? What I'm looking for would look something like this:
Not that I'm looking for this specific one, just something that couples the motor shaft to the collator plate.
Most people are using a hex shaft coupler, and then printing the hex version of the collator plate, which has been made very easy to do at this point.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...D9PZRWI9&psc=1
the part you are showing in the pic is in the download and called "puller". Also FYI the JGY motor is not recommended for the larger feeder body.
Another option that I'm using is this, but you'll need to adjust the shaft size to 9.1mm in the openscad file for the collator plates, or you could just drill it out once you've printed it, but that might affect how long it will last. It's working well for me with .45 ACP 230 grain FMJ RN, so it should hold up to just about anything, but definitely use the loctite!
Motor Shaft Coupler:
Twidec/4Pcs 6mm-6mm Brass Flexible Shaft Coupler for RC Airplane Boat Motor Transmission Connector COUPLER-GLD-6-6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motor Shaft "Pin": (Assortment purchased for another hobby years ago.)
Thread a 30mm M3 screw through the shaft coupler and cut the head off:
304 Stainless Steel Screws Nuts and Washers 1200PCS, Sutemribor M2 M3 M4 Hex Socket Head Cap Bolts Screws Nuts Washers Assortment Kit with Hex Wrenches
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Loctite to keep it from moving on you.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the responses. I thought that that piece might have been keyed to the shaft. I've ordered up those shaft couplers . While I waited I cobbled up what I thought that puller was in the first place and printed it out. Might work, might blow apart in short order. In any event, I gave it a try.
I've got most of the pieces printed. Just waiting on various orders from the internet.
Is there a particular screw that you all are using for the flipper or just whatever fits? Similar question for the spring housings that mount to the base.
I just ordered a 3D printer to give this project a try. I'm glad there has been some recent input on what kind of shaft to use since I've been pretty torn on which way to go. Seems like the hex coupler is the best way at this point for those who are starting from scratch. Which (available) motor do you suggest for the larger feeder body if I decide to go that direction?
Thanks!
I used these to attach the drop chute...
https://www.mcmaster.com/99512A111/
Everything else came from one of these assortments...
Various M2, M3 and M4 Screws and washers used for assembly: (Assortment purchased for another hobby years ago.)
304 Stainless Steel Screws Nuts and Washers 1200PCS, Sutemribor M2 M3 M4 Hex Socket Head Cap Bolts Screws Nuts Washers Assortment Kit with Hex Wrenches
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hilitchi 460-Piece M3 M4 M5 Stainless Steel Button Head Hex Socket Head Cap Bolts Screws Nuts Assortment Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Flipper Spring: (Assortment purchased for another hobby years ago.)
Spring used from this assortment was (23/64" x 1-3/8" Compression Spring) - (Probably too long/heavy. May cut a few coils off, but working so far)
ABN Compression & Extension Spring 200 pc Assortment Set, Heavy-Duty Steel Wire – Metal Tension Springs Replacement Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But yeah, basically whatever fits...
This:
https://www.mcmaster.com/6409K15/
Or try this one. (No feedback on this one yet)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10RPM-Metal....c101111.m2109
Edited: Just to be clear, the coupler is being used for the smaller JGY motor. For the other motors people are generally drilling a hole in the shaft and driving a pin, which can be challenging if the shaft is quality hardened steel. (Don't ask me how I know)
Last edited by TylerR; 07-29-2020 at 08:44 PM.
Is anyone making these for others? I need one that does cases both base down and mouth down for my new Lee APP. Thanks.
Karl Bibb's reloading stuff
https://www.facebook.com/groups/609033382832289
I talked to Karl about it and he said he couldn't do it. I purchase a case feeder from him to add to one of my reloaders. Very responsive to my questions and my order shipped within a day.
I played with BB with rim down yesterday, after seeing videos of commercial processors doing it, I compared cases running rim vs. mouth down and saw no difference. Also noted no significant case lengthening. Only issue was that the plunger was to short to push round all the way through. I'm having a new plunger machined that is 1/2 inch longer and should push round through. This should greatly increase BB speed and eliminate one of the repetitive motions.
Bulge Busting, Slang for getting rid of the bulge on the base of cases that are fired from barrels that are not fully supported. Happens with the rounds I shoot out of my Glocks. I have started BB with rim down using a standard case feeder. I had a modified push through punch machined.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |