Making that Bullet Collator

[dwwright]

So I'm planning to use the JGY370 motor, but after installing it to the main body it's obvious that the shaft is way shorter and doesn't have the "T" needed to spin the collator plate. How have others with this motor gotten it to work? I saw a post on someone welding some tabs on to the motor shaft, but would like to avoid that if possible.

I was looking to maybe get a shaft coupler like these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shaft-Coupl...l/401366074041

Then maybe drill through for a short piece of brass on one end to create the "T". It may require enlarging the diameter of hole in the collator and main body, but no big deal and looks like the scad file can be updated to do that on the collator.

[Handloader109]

Well, I feel bad. I should have made a comment about this motor when I got it the other day. Yep, just barely above the floor. I am trying to make a t myself. Had a 3mm threaded standoff that I cross drilled and installed a pin. Added loctite to hold it as the motor turns clockwise and will unthread when jam happens. No go, it takes just a bit to break it loose. And I've found my pin is too short and let's collator plate move. Can fix that, but I think I'll have to hit with wire welder, might could booger threads enough, but not confident there.

My other issue is bullets hanging and turning sideways. I'm using mrb's spring but is hanging in printed cone. RN, and three other 9mms I'm playing with. Doesn't matter. Any suggestions guys?

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[Tazza]

Can you try red loctite? that stuff when dry, is pretty tough! I'd think it would not let go with the torque of your motor.

I'd avoid hitting it with a welder if at all possible, i don't know if there is any plastic inside the gearbox that could possibly be melted.

[jmorris]

The 2L00(x) Dayton motors I have used, I just drill and install a roll pin, to make the “T”.

[dwwright]

Well, I feel bad. I should have made a comment about this motor when I got it the other day. Yep, just barely above the floor. I am trying to make a t myself. Had a 3mm threaded standoff that I cross drilled and installed a pin. Added loctite to hold it as the motor turns clockwise and will unthread when jam happens. No go, it takes just a bit to break it loose. And I've found my pin is too short and let's collator plate move. Can fix that, but I think I'll have to hit with wire welder, might could booger threads enough, but not confident there.

My other issue is bullets hanging and turning sideways. I'm using mrb's spring but is hanging in printed cone. RN, and three other 9mms I'm playing with. Doesn't matter. Any suggestions guys?

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No worries, I ordered a couple of the couplers below to try, looks like the threaded holes go through already upon closer inspection, so just need to remove the head of an m3 screw that is long enough and thread lock it in place. I may need to re-print the collator plate with a larger hole and open up the one in the floor as well, but that is a simple fix.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shaft-Coupl...l/401366074041

[r4ndy]

Hi,

Newbie to 3d printing here. I have successfully printed a lee pro tube holder and a couple other items under 90 min print jobs. I went to print the bullet drop tube and all was going well until about 3 hours in when I found the tube had lifted off the bed and the printer was just making a blob and moving around with the print attached to it. I was using .1 and 80% infill with 200 / 60 for temp on an Anet A8 with 3m blue tape and glue stick. Bed feels slick where I was printing, so I am guessing it is the bed adhsesion. I am hoping someone can tell me if the likely issue is bed adhesion or if I should look at other things. I just got some aquanet today, so I was going to use that for the next print with blue tape, but if there is something else I should adjust I would like to do so before wasting another 3 hrs .



Thanks for your assistance.

[Mark2215]

I use aquanet on glass and have to pry things off, no problem with adhesion.

[InfringedNSocal]

I print on PEI sheet and not blue tape.

Id suggest getting a piece of glass from home depot and having it cut to your beds size - its like $5 all done. Or something like a Buildtak Flexible steel sheet - with PEI or Buildtak on it. You also prolly needed a bit more squish or lower Z height ... might also try ...


1. slow down 1st layer to 15 mm/s
2. up temps 5C on first layer
3. no fan for layers 1 and 2
4. Up bed temp 5C [ i print PLA at 65 [ esun pla + [ great stuff btw ] ]]]
5. run some test prints and really get that 1st layer adhesion down that tall part is gunna be a B
.
.
.
6. Add a brim ?

[r4ndy]

Thanks for the feedback!

[Handloader109]

For the drop tube, print with a brim. Comes off easy, but helps hold it down.

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[r4ndy]

I had a brim, but pulled it off before the photo, should have mentioned that.

[dwwright]

I got mine running tonight, but obviously I need to figure out the right ramp plate to print for .223. I was able to hold one of the two I printed in place for a bit and get some successful flips on the nose down bullets.


I also got the switch tubes printed for 7mm & 10mm springs.


I still need to print a mount and a controller box too.

Oh, almost forgot, the brass coupler mentioned above worked great for doing the "T" on the JGY370 motor. Just had to drill out the collator plate and the base of the main body to fit it in there.

[shibbykins]

I forget which ramp I used but I did find I had to mess with it quite a bit to get it to reliably tip 223 pills. I need to print off a new body but my printer is on the **** fritz with its Y axis wanting to not retract from being out front and now the frame is bending. Time to go to a metal frame I think.

[Lakehouse2012]

Hi Guys, I want to play in the sandbox with you all.... My machine is built and I'm running my first larger test-print as we speak. I'm diving into the deep end cause the print has been going 2 hours now and looking good. So I'm going to start with the coolater.

Question is: I'm in Cura right now getting ready to slice, what is the best fill and layer height for this larger part? I figure its gonna take some abuse sorting lead boolits, 100% fill, what about layer height?

[AmmoMike83]

Hi Guys, I want to play in the sandbox with you all.... My machine is built and I'm running my first larger test-print as we speak. I'm diving into the deep end cause the print has been going 2 hours now and looking good. So I'm going to start with the coolater.

Question is: I'm in Cura right now getting ready to slice, what is the best fill and layer height for this larger part? I figure its gonna take some abuse sorting lead boolits, 100% fill, what about layer height?

Hi,

Go with 0.15 layer height, 50% infill and wall (line) count 6

Mike

[Lakehouse2012]

Hi,

Go with 0.15 layer height, 50% infill and wall (line) count 6

Mike

Thanks Mike, and especially for all the files and work you have done to help us all, I've been reading non-stop for 2 weeks.... ask my wife...

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[Lakehouse2012]

Hi,

Go with 0.15 layer height, 50% infill and wall (line) count 6

Mike

How fast could I set print speed, default is at 60 mm/s

[AmmoMike83]

How fast could I set print speed, default is at 60 mm/s

Depends on your printer. Leave it at default.

[jmorris]

These are the settings I used to get a successful print.


layer height .15
Shell thickness .8 for Wall and bottom/top
Infill 80%
Printing temp 200
Plate temp 70
Diameter 1.75
Flow 100
Speed print 50
Travel 120
Cooling enabled
No support
Adhesion brim, 12mm

Using cura
Shaxon PLA
Glass bed
Aqua net extra super hold unscented
.0035” gap

I tried others that didn’t work and I am sure there are others that will but these did for sure.

[Lakehouse2012]

Thanks JMorris for the settings!
Another question - l tried starting a new print late last night. I used Cura to slice the STL. I moved the models to the place I wanted them to build in the Cura software. But when i started printing, it shifted the part way over to the left and rearward so the edge of part was off table.

Is this a settings issue in Cura or on the A8 display that I'm missing?

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