I do 99% of my posting from my phone using TapatalkOriginally Posted by GWS
Size is always a issue with pictures. Think it’s like a 3 meg limit or something
Like I said pretty much all my posting is done with my phone
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Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
You're welcome....I wish your project well. Be sure, whether you are telescoping the cheap clear tube or printing adapters, make sure you have bevels at each transition smaller or bullets will hang. You don't want ANY ledges, period. Or anywhere where a bullet can clog by wedging sideways.
The sensor doesn't care whether you have tubing between it and the bullet as long as it isn't more than 1/4" away. For really small bullets you might even want to stick a piece of clear tubing or a plastic beveled tube even as high as the top of the sensor, to keep them from laying sideways. The fact that you make stuff with 3d printers, tells me you can figure out what you need for what you reload.
Yes, I know the size limit....it won't even let you post them if they are too big, but what in the world would cause them to be seen, then later disappear, then later reappear like mine did yesterday.....I was beginning to think I was bad luck.....well maybe that's true.....
I've been a lurker for a while but wanted to pop in and say thank you to TylerR for his work. I just did a mockup and test run of the case feeder and it is amazing! I've got a little stutter that I think is that spring loaded piece catching on the collater plate, so I'll file it down a bit. But I am super excited to get this mounted!
Imgur gif of it in action: https://imgur.com/a/uaKQZef
Thanks TylerR and everyone else who contributed!
I havn't had any of them in my hands yet so my reason for wanting one is it's large/powerful, cheap, and amazon Prime availability.
The McMaster is nice, but at $80 it's spendy. Not that I have any problem paying $80, but on something that I have never used it and don't yet know how well it will work it's a little hard to justify.
The other motor you just created last on ebay looks nice, but currently only available from China with a multi-week lead time and may or may not arrive with the latest trendy disease.
The Amazon one seems to fall right in the center of everything.
I am nearly done with the AM original/JGY370/smaller version. Everything is printed, I am only waiting on electronics to show up. I'm starting your larger version on the printer now.
Thank you very much. Looks great! Which motor did you used?
In watching your video and the stutter, it makes me realize that the spring loaded "flipper" as it has been called (should probably call it the knocker or something), is probably not even necessary for base down brass feeding. If you run the feeder at the correct angle, any brass that is not fully in a slot should just fall back to the bottom on its own, and not even get to the flipper. It is really more for knocking out bullets that end up partially in the slot.
I have a part that is made for the brass base up feeding that disables the flipper. I can include it in my next update, hopefully coming soon.
Your spring tension on that part might be a little strong as well. You could try maybe cutting a few coils off. I have just been stealing springs from ball point pens for that.
I will put together a new base with the hole spacing for that motor and you can try it out.
do you have the motor in hand already? I am looking at the hole spacing diagram and it leaves a few things to be assumed, which I hate to do. If you have one I wouldn't mind confirming some measurements.
Last edited by TylerR; 10-14-2020 at 10:24 PM.
Thanks for the feedback! I'll give your suggestions a try.
I'm using the McMaster-Carr motor. I just drilled a hole in the shaft and ran a roll pin through it. Works great!
Im working on a buddy in China who might be able to to get then, much cheaper...
It will arrive tomorrow. What dimension are you looking for?
Side note. I noticed a lot of people print the flipper plate horizontally. I wasn’t having good luck with that. Tried it vertically and it’s so much better! WAY smoother.
Well I'm probably older than you and yes it happens a lot. The main reason I hang out around you guys is you guys are smarter. I prefer to keep company with people who can keep me on my toes, and that happens here.
I made a short video to illustrate why this works. I know it does because I make it work on my existing Hornady mod. 3d prints can make it work even better because you can do things you can't do any other way without a machine shop.
My first "down tube" is for .45, the second one is for .40 and .38. You upped the bar quite a bit expecting it to do .223! It can, but first look at the video.....you'll notice at the end I move the green tube higher in front of and even above the sensor. Because for .22 you will have to. Most of the funneling will have to be done before it gets to the sensor.
Now.....I said that I'd have to make a longer tube that rises in front of the sensor.....I also said in another post that the proximity sensor could detect metal 1/4" away.............well that's true for big dense stuff like .45 and even 308 bullets, but I knew sensitivity goes down for low density things.......like .22 bullets. So tonight I measured it. It detects .22's a maximum of 3/32" away.
That means the tube for small caliber bullet will have to be offset from the center closer to the sensor. Guess what! I can bore a hole through the cylinder anywhere I want, in fact I can even curve it so it goes back to center at each end.....and be within specs. So yes, I think it can work for any caliber. The parts to replicate are the simple down tubes in the video to mate one end with the collator and the other with the spring or clear tube that goes to the feeder die.
So yes I have to make down tubes for each caliber.....but they are just tubes....even if some will have to be longer and bored offset.
I'll get busy and design a .223 version and we will see. Dang! 3D printing is fun! Finally something I'm not sick and tired of!
Still haven't got my mount made for this tool! In the real world other people don't just drop what they are doing and jump at my command.Especially not my welder nephew!
Last edited by GWS; 10-15-2020 at 12:51 AM.
Looks great GWS. I love the setup and solutions you are working on. I myself have not even started to play around with .223/5.56 but that will be my next project, and I know whatever I am modifying from the original design has to account for that.
The area near the ramp lifted up off the build plate.
I will have to smooth that out some and might need to heat it and reshape it. And depending on how far off it is might need to fill it in (add additional plastic.
The cool part with working with plastics is that you can add some heat to fuse stuff back together or to change shapes.
I purchased a unit from a guy.
I hadn’t even got it assembled 100% and the walls had separated.
I used a butane fired torch the heat it up and fuse them back together.
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Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Looks great from here! Wonder if you could dip that corner in a pan of boiling water to soften it, then press it on the kitchen counter and hold it down with gloves? Wonder what temperature it actually melts and deforms?
Or I wonder if that corner will really affect anything? Wouldn't the higher layers eventually even out? Surely the nozzle isn't going to rise just for that corner?
I just got a new roll of black from Overture. Maybe it's time to print out that up-sized base myself. Time to try one to collate rifle bullets.......case feeding is just a future dream at this point.
Oh! One question.....you didn't iron the top layers did you? I haven't tried that myself. Has anyone? Pictures of the resulting surface?
Last edited by GWS; 10-15-2020 at 12:13 PM.
It will melt if placed in boiling water.
Think what temp the extruder is when it is making the part.
You could use a hot hair dryer most likely.
Fine sandpaper or a fine file will smooth out some imperfections as well.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
See that's what I don't know......I print at 210 degrees centigrade and water boiling is only 100C. The base is 60C and that doesn't melt.....
I'll test that today on my few layers of first fail. You may be right.
I thought it was 200f?
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Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
My mistake
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
PLA is workable over 60 C - it isn't melted but is soft enough to deform and hold shape once cooled.
That's why we run the bed at around 60 - to keep the base layer near glass transition so it can relieve stress that would normally pull the part off the build plate.
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