Making that Bullet Collator

[Fil131]

You are a gentleman and a scholar. I shall report back in 48 (!!) hours.

I'm so glad my prints never take that long, not sure if I'd like 3D printing at all if they did.

[GWS]

TylerR: The print of the .223 downtube was all I could ask for. Pretty close to Perfect.....

I made a short video to show you...but I should explain what you're looking at:

First, as I told you I didn't make it with threads for a spring....I don't have one that size. What I do have is RCBS's new tube bullet feeder with it's black graphite tube. I printed the tube inset for that! I like to see the stack, but though the tube is super strong, it's opaque, so I set up a Dremel in a jig and cut a slot lengthwise so I could see the bullet stack. So before I tested this new downtube for the proximity sensor, I filled up said tube, so I wouldn't have to drop so many bullets to fill the stack to the switch point and bore you all with repetition.

The down tube has a directional nub I painted white that has to face the sensor since the .223 bullet path inside had to be angled off center to the sensor side, and back to the center to drop out below. The bullets are so small, they have to be closer than large bullets to be picked up.


At the end of the video, I let a bullet from the bottom fall so it would start up again....dropped one more bullet....it stopped again. Yes!

Now I need to print a wheel and plate to feed them.....cart before the horse....I know.....but that's okay.

I'll show the Autocad 3d drawing once more, so people can see the design, who didn't notice it in a previous post, that it's designed so that only the downtube has to be changed when caliber is changed.....I leave the sensor setup alone.

[TylerR]

GWS, don't you just love it when a plan comes together?

I had a major breakthrough in my base up case feeding last night. It is just about ready for primetime.

[lablover]

GWS, don't you just love it when a plan comes together?

I had a major breakthrough in my case up base feeding last night. It is just about ready for primetime.

Wooohoooo. Look forward to seeing it

[GWS]

All ears! This is for .40 bulge busting on an APP? right?

[lablover]

All ears! This is for .40 bulge busting on an APP? right?

I think .45 acp. Knowing Tyler every pistol caliber. Lol

[TylerR]

Yes, this is for all four pistol calibers I have been working on. .45, .40, 9mm, .380

[TylerR]

OK so here is a little preview. I have been working on this project for about 6 weeks now, and can honestly say it was testing my patience. Certain parts I have printed in excess of 30 times getting it right. There were a lot of challenges that needed to be solved. I had most everything worked out pretty well, but would still get occasional cases jamming in the drop hole. After trying out about 10 different "fixes", I finally found one that actually works. Its funny because it is such a minor change to the part but is absolutely necessary for reliability.

First off, here is a photo to show the angle needed for reliable feeding. It is definitely steeper then for bullets. I would call it around 50-60%. Running it too shallow causes the most issues, but it can't be too steep either.



And some video of .45 brass:

[Fil131]

The hex plates are sometimes jamming up on the hex adapter on the motor, must be from a little slack. I haven't had any detrimental issues yet(except previously when a allen screw backed out locking the plate in and forcing the collator plate off, broke the bottom portion of plate which is why I used loctite and highly recommend it to anyone going this route) but it makes removing the plate difficult sometimes. Either minor adjustments will need to be made to the sizing of the hex opening or bigger hex adaptors so there is more sidewall or just go with the tried and true drill and roll pin.

Anyone else using hex plates have any of these issues?

[TylerR]

The hex plates are sometimes jamming up on the hex adapter on the motor, must be from a little slack. I haven't had any detrimental issues yet(except previously when a allen screw backed out locking the plate in and forcing the collator plate off, broke the bottom portion of plate which is why I used loctite and highly recommend it to anyone going this route) but it makes removing the plate difficult sometimes. Either minor adjustments will need to be made to the sizing of the hex opening or bigger hex adaptors so there is more sidewall or just go with the tried and true drill and roll pin.

Anyone else using hex plates have any of these issues?

How much play is there? When I asked about the fit last time someone said it was a little tight on two of the plates they printed, and just right on another.

The size is a configurable setting in the collator plate generator.

[Fil131]

OK so here is a little preview. I have been working on this project for about 6 weeks now, and can honestly say it was testing my patience. Certain parts I have printed in excess of 30 times getting it right. There were a lot of challenges that needed to be solved. I had most everything worked out pretty well, but would still get occasional cases jamming in the drop hole. After trying out about 10 different "fixes", I finally found one that actually works. Its funny because it is such a minor change to the part but is absolutely necessary for reliability.

First off, here is a photo to show the angle needed for reliable feeding. It is definitely steeper then for bullets. I would call it around 50-60%. Running it too shallow causes the most issues, but it can't be too steep either.



And some video of .45 brass:

Awesome Tyler, can't wait till you work on rifle bullet feeding(base down) as well as printed feed dies. If its going to be a while I will buy them from DAA as i suck at fusion and OpenSCAD. I don't know why I can't get things to model the way I want them to.

Can you share editable turning/slide plates? I'd like to try and play with those to attempt to make it work with FNFB projectiles. I have no issues with RN projectiles currently, as well as 223REM but haven't tried all of my projectiles yet as i don't have any of this mounted to anything to do real tests at a set angle.

Oh also I tried some light 90gn, 380Auto projectiles on the 9mm plate and they were fitting sideways in the plate with the base or nose rubbing along the wall of the housing, did not seem to happen with 100 grainers though, is there a way to adjust the depth of the openings for these smaller bullets?

[Fil131]

How much play is there? When I asked about the fit last time someone said it was a little tight on two of the plates they printed, and just right on another.

The size is a configurable setting in the collator plate generator.

Both comments may have been mine, one was measuring with calipers and it seemed they wouldn't fit, then when I had the hex connectors on hand I placed them in and they seemed to be perfect. After doing some small runs though unfortunately they do seem to rotate partially around the connector with the stop/go of the flipper putting stress on the rotation.

[lablover]

OK so here is a little preview. I have been working on this project for about 6 weeks now, and can honestly say it was testing my patience. Certain parts I have printed in excess of 30 times getting it right. There were a lot of challenges that needed to be solved. I had most everything worked out pretty well, but would still get occasional cases jamming in the drop hole. After trying out about 10 different "fixes", I finally found one that actually works. Its funny because it is such a minor change to the part but is absolutely necessary for reliability.

First off, here is a photo to show the angle needed for reliable feeding. It is definitely steeper then for bullets. I would call it around 50-60%. Running it too shallow causes the most issues, but it can't be too steep either.



And some video of .45 brass:

Wow, this is so cool. Is there updated files? Man that looks like it’s working perfect! Well done sir

[lablover]

The hex plates are sometimes jamming up on the hex adapter on the motor, must be from a little slack. I haven't had any detrimental issues yet(except previously when a allen screw backed out locking the plate in and forcing the collator plate off, broke the bottom portion of plate which is why I used loctite and highly recommend it to anyone going this route) but it makes removing the plate difficult sometimes. Either minor adjustments will need to be made to the sizing of the hex opening or bigger hex adaptors so there is more sidewall or just go with the tried and true drill and roll pin.

Anyone else using hex plates have any of these issues?

I’m using the hex plate and have deprimed over 1k pieces of brass and not a single issue yet. The stock settings Tyler provides in the openscad file fits my adapter perfect. Not loose at all, fits like a nice snug glove.

[Fil131]

I’m using the hex plate and have deprimed over 1k pieces of brass and not a single issue yet. The stock settings Tyler provides in the openscad file fits my adapter perfect. Not loose at all, fits like a nice snug glove.

You've never had your collator plate get hung up on the hex adaptor? I added a video to my previous post of the play in the opening.

[HATCH]

printed the slide plates today,
looks like my opening is 1/16 inch too narrow. Looks like just under 3 inches.
This isn't measuring the groove but that flats of the opening.
Looks like its time to file

[Fil131]

printed the slide plates today,
looks like my opening is 1/16 inch too narrow. Looks like just under 3 inches.
This isn't measuring the groove but that flats of the opening.
Looks like its time to file

I feel for you, I know you'll get it solved, but if you lived closer I'd print a main body and slide plates for you. Hate to see print struggles especially after such a long print like yours. I wonder why they came out soo much different?

[TylerR]

Awesome Tyler, can't wait till you work on rifle bullet feeding(base down) as well as printed feed dies. If its going to be a while I will buy them from DAA as i suck at fusion and OpenSCAD. I don't know why I can't get things to model the way I want them to.

Can you share editable turning/slide plates? I'd like to try and play with those to attempt to make it work with FNFB projectiles. I have no issues with RN projectiles currently, as well as 223REM but haven't tried all of my projectiles yet as i don't have any of this mounted to anything to do real tests at a set angle.

Oh also I tried some light 90gn, 380Auto projectiles on the 9mm plate and they were fitting sideways in the plate with the base or nose rubbing along the wall of the housing, did not seem to happen with 100 grainers though, is there a way to adjust the depth of the openings for these smaller bullets?

I have no plans right now to replicate the actual dropper die that screws in to the press. Just taking a brief look at it, that is a pretty big project. Rifle bullets are next on my list.

I am willing to share the plates, but in what format? My options for exporting are limited.

You absolutely can adjust the diameter of the hole in the collator plates. That is what the generator is for. You can also adjust the size of the hex hole while you are in there. There are enough options to do pretty much anything you could want at this point.

[lablover]

You've never had your collator plate get hung up on the hex adaptor? I added a video to my previous post of the play in the opening.

Just watched it. No way I have that much play. Is that just in the plate? I couldn’t tell if the brass hex is moving too. For brass I remove the flipper arm completely. I made 2 complete kits one for brass and one for bullets so I don’t have to mess around with them.

[TylerR]

printed the slide plates today,
looks like my opening is 1/16 inch too narrow. Looks like just under 3 inches.
This isn't measuring the groove but that flats of the opening.
Looks like its time to file

I feared that may happen with that area lifting off the build plate. I have a strict policy to cancel any print where the first layers lift up. It just leads to issues down the road.