Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

like that? Never thought I'd become dumb as a stump with computers....but I'm almost there. Way back in the dark ages I built my first cad machine by building HeathKit circuits by soldering iron. Maybe I ought to just keep that a secret.....oh well....too late.

[TylerR]

like that? Never thought I'd become dumb as a stump with computers....but I'm almost there. Way back in the dark ages I built my first cad machine by building HeathKit circuits by soldering iron. Maybe I ought to just keep that a secret.....oh well....too late.

Haha, that's awesome! You got me beat by a bit. My first computer was a Texas Instruments TI99.

Your upload looks good to me my friend.

Anything you want to share feel free to throw it up there. I don't use it for anything else anyway.

And if anyone is wondering how to get to it check my sig line.

[lablover]

Haha, that's awesome! You got me beat by a bit. My first computer was a Texas Instruments TI99.

Your upload looks good to me my friend.

Anything you want to share feel free to throw it up there. I don't use it for anything else anyway.

And if anyone is wondering how to get to it check my sig line.

good touch putting that in your tag line

[stlmacgeek]

I don't have one stl, I have four......so far. this is a design in process that started on page 54 and continued on pages 55,56 then improved using a 3 piece more easily printed design on page 57and 66. Then page 75, a .22 downtube with offset interior path on page 77. I do love it, but it's not a finished product for those who expect to print and use without some TLC, and tweaks here and there. One more thing...it's not designed for the small diameter proximity sensors. Make sure you have one like I have.

I'm not ready with the files just yet. I'll get the files together and post a link in this post. So if you want to print them at your own risk, and try them you certainly welcome to. Just return to this post in a few hours and download them if you want. They work great for me.

With TylerR's help....... https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...y0qvUSP9B4MwvV



One more thing....in the picture above shows the .223 version of the upper in the middle. It has a funnel going into the top, and a curved path to keep falling bullets within range of the sensor. Now that funnel is stair stepped because of how 3d printers print. That causes those tiny bullets to pile up if not smoothed out with a round file, or something....I also painted mine with acrylic wax (use to be called Pledge) and before it dried I rubbed fine powdered graphic in it.....making it slicker than snot......no more problems....bullets fall like water, just like my last video showed.

GWS, Thanks for the files and the advice! Much appreciated. Looks like I have something to work on this weekend.

[Rage 01]

Here's a link of a 3D printed bullet feeder die with springs. If this indeed needs springs it'd be nice to use pen springs like the flipper.

https://youtu.be/Sf4wwsLgiqY

Take the springs off and use o-rings, works better.
I have designed a 9, 223 and a 40 of these droppers. Just testing them out before I release them.
I see someone mentioned that they don't need springs or bands to hold the bullet dropper together because the weight of the tube or spring will hold it down.
The reason why I use an o-ring is to keep it together so it does not come apart and I lose the ball bearing.

[lablover]

New 223 plate is 15 minutes from being done. Looks great! Yea..........I forgot to change the bullet diameter in openscad to 556 so whatever the default was....hahahahaha. Damn! No troughs and stubby ridges. What a bone head move. Time to print another. Let’s just call this one a practice session.

[GWS]

Nobody's perfect. Remember the "ugly, ironed" one I did? Remember the video of .223 that was perfect and faster than hell? Same print. Think I'll keep it.....ugly or not it works better than anything else I've seen. So try yours out with whatever caliber it's printed at. Maybe you'll discover some magic.

[lablover]

Nobody's perfect. Remember the "ugly, ironed" one I did? Remember the video of .223 that was perfect and faster than hell? Same print. Think I'll keep it.....ugly or not it works better than anything else I've seen. So try yours out with whatever caliber it's printed at. Maybe you'll discover some magic.

I will do that. 9mm at rifle height.

I will say I like the squared off ridges...nice

[GWS]

Maybe it'll do 30 caliber AND .223.

[lablover]

Little off topic but I bet one of those resin printers would do a fabulous job on dies and drop tubes....oh boy

[TylerR]

The reason why I use an o-ring is to keep it together so it does not come apart and I lose the ball bearing.

That is a great point. I will look to put them back on my design. I have the .45 version just about worked out.

[lablover]

That is a great point. I will look to put them back on my design. I have the .45 version just about worked out.

Yup, it’s Christmas again. I’m liking the look of that

[TylerR]

Yup, it’s Christmas again. I’m liking the look of that

The nice part is they interface directly with the drop tube, just like the DAA die. Once I get this worked out I will post it, and then do 9mm next.

[lablover]

The nice part is they interface directly with the drop tube, just like the DAA die. Once I get this worked out I will post it, and then do 9mm next.

I could add a monkey wrench to the mix. Visions of eliminating the drop tube and just extending the top slider part of the die and adding the light sensors to that. Lol

[TylerR]

I could add a monkey wrench to the mix. Visions of eliminating the drop tube and just extending the top slider part of the die and adding the light sensors to that. Lol

The drop tube increases the bullet column, which is a good thing. It also shows the movement of bullets in the tube, and has the interface for the spring adapter. If anyone wants something different I will leave that to them.

[lablover]

The drop tube increases the bullet column, which is a good thing. It also shows the movement of bullets in the tube, and has the interface for the spring adapter. If anyone wants something different I will leave that to them.

Agree

[Andar]

Hey TylerR, is it possible to get the design file for the spring adapter? I'd like to modify it to work with this type of spring, as it's more widely available and cheaper up here than the DAA springs (plus you get multiple sizes). The adapter I used was the '9mm_spring_housing_v2', but it would be nice to be able to quick swap them instead of having to screw the adapter in place every time. I'll gladly send back the finished result if someone else went the same route as me.

[TylerR]

Hey TylerR, is it possible to get the design file for the spring adapter? I'd like to modify it to work with this type of spring, as it's more widely available and cheaper up here than the DAA springs (plus you get multiple sizes). The adapter I used was the '9mm_spring_housing_v2', but it would be nice to be able to quick swap them instead of having to screw the adapter in place every time. I'll gladly send back the finished result if someone else went the same route as me.

Sure, I can export in the following formats. Which one do you want? Yes, if you do get something going I would appreciate getting them back so I can add to the download.

[Rage 01]

Here is what my 40 looks like:
I use 3.15 mm ball bearings to give me the max size of the outer shell part that screws into the machine. I found if I use a 4mm then the threads are a little too weak and can break.
The top of the inside of the dia there is a threaded hole. I can put a 4mm screw in there to hold an adapter. With this I can make what ever adapter to fit any machine. I have a Dillon 650XL. I have been using my 9mm dia for a while now. I think I have ran over 3000 rounds through it so far with no problem. The 9mm dia looks the same just changed the center hole for the size. I am working on a 223 one right now but am having a little difficultly with it. I will figure it out. I print these on a CR10S with PetG for a added strength.

I am working on a new drop tube right now for the photo sensor. A little shorter and where you can hide the wires with in the drop tube. I use a JST connector to plug into the drop tube to the control box. Nice and clean and neat. My OCD kicks in with any type of wiring.

[TylerR]

Here is what my 40 looks like:
I use 3.15 mm ball bearings to give me the max size of the outer shell part that screws into the machine. I found if I use a 4mm then the threads are a little too weak and can break.
The top of the inside of the dia there is a threaded hole. I can put a 4mm screw in there to hold an adapter. With this I can make what ever adapter to fit any machine. I have a Dillon 650XL. I have been using my 9mm dia for a while now. I think I have ran over 3000 rounds through it so far with no problem. The 9mm dia looks the same just changed the center hole for the size. I am working on a 223 one right now but am having a little difficultly with it. I will figure it out. I print these on a CR10S with PetG for a added strength.

I am working on a new drop tube right now for the photo sensor. A little shorter and where you can hide the wires with in the drop tube. I use a JST connector to plug into the drop tube to the control box. Nice and clean and neat. My OCD kicks in with any type of wiring.

Looks like a solid design. Do you have an adapter to connect to the standard drop tube that fits the DAA die?

I am with you, I used jst connector for the led/sensor wiring and xt30 for the motor.