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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #621
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    59
    Quote Originally Posted by razorfish View Post
    It was a long journey but I finally finished my collator. I wanted a nose down only feeder for my Star sizer... it works flawlessly!

    I ended up designing and printing my own transport pieces, but other than that it’s 100% AmmoMike’s design. Thanks for all the help!

    Attachment 220108



    Brilliant work sir ... jsut noticed in your vids and comments - going back thru - that you crafted your own drop tube mount - this part :

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Could you please expand upon what you made there - you mention it has threads? Would you be willing to share .stl or dimension or direction on some of hte design goals - why u made it vs whats currently in the Open project file options ? Im looking for a method to quick change a tube mount for rifle and pistol calibers ... for loading - nose up vs. sizing.

  2. #622
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Brilliant work sir ... jsut noticed in your vids and comments - going back thru - that you crafted your own drop tube mount - this part :

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	222702

    Could you please expand upon what you made there - you mention it has threads? Would you be willing to share .stl or dimension or direction on some of hte design goals - why u made it vs whats currently in the Open project file options ? Im looking for a method to quick change a tube mount for rifle and pistol calibers ... for loading - nose up vs. sizing.
    Basically when it came time for the transport pieces I couldn’t figure out what all the different STL files were so I just designed my own. (Note that I’ve used CAD for decades)

    I bought an Extension Spring for the MBR. This came with not only the spring but also a coupler for joining to another spring. What your seeing there is a 3d printed piece that the coupler simply slides into. It fits tightly but is also secured by a 6mm set screw (5.2mm hole tapped at 6mm).

    In this case I used OpenSCAD to design these parts. It’s very simple software if you know basic programming (and a bit of math). I’d be glad to share the OpenSCAD files but realize I only spent a few hours on my coding to whip out these parts. Again in my situation it was just faster for me to design from scratch rather than trying to analyze a bunch of STL files.

  3. #623
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by razorfish View Post
    Basically when it came time for the transport pieces I couldn’t figure out what all the different STL files were so I just designed my own. (Note that I’ve used CAD for decades)

    I bought an Extension Spring for the MBR. This came with not only the spring but also a coupler for joining to another spring. What your seeing there is a 3d printed piece that the coupler simply slides into. It fits tightly but is also secured by a 6mm set screw (5.2mm hole tapped at 6mm).

    In this case I used OpenSCAD to design these parts. It’s very simple software if you know basic programming (and a bit of math). I’d be glad to share the OpenSCAD files but realize I only spent a few hours on my coding to whip out these parts. Again in my situation it was just faster for me to design from scratch rather than trying to analyze a bunch of STL files.
    Totally get it - I too was unsure of what and how to use all the files - hence why Im trying to create a spreadsheet that mates all the different printed parts together - see my prior post ... and a separate sheet that has all the printed parts printer settings etc. Example; Buy MR BF motor - use this base .stl ... Buy Amazon LED light sensor / switch endstop - Use this .stl file for this caliber etc.

    Im not good at openSCAD by any stretch - Ive used it thrice ... but I can work my way thru Fusion360, import .step and other files and do just fine.

    I liked how your part mated to both the spring - and the base and had the set screw - which is a quick "enuff" release for what Im trying to do. i have the other spring types from Home Depot for the wire bending. I had an initial goal to not have to send Mr. BF a single $$$ - but thats folly. Sure looks like your setup for larger calibers would be much easier than fussing with the current misc diameter cone parts and the "clips" from Mr. BF to hold it all together. [ To Be Fair I havent had a chance to try them - they could be the cats **** for all I know ]

    If youd be willing to share your openScad files - at very least I could get an stl out and print and reverse engineer into fusion and make my own. And of course will share my stl's etc with whomever needs it . PM me when u can ..

    Thank you

  4. #624
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    Pa.
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    Well I ready to jump on-board on this, not long ago I got a Creality CR-10s and did some things on it. I did make an AR skeletonized grip for my buddy, had to do some file work to make it fit but other than that it’s real strong so we’ll see how it holds up. Now told my other buddy I told him I'd print him a bullet feeder for his Star. Got CURA 3.4.1 and saw everyones settings but we have been getting bad weather here lately storms just about every day and don’t need a power glitch to mess the whole thing up. Ordered the MBF motor and power supply and feeder springs and a micro switch all from Double Alpha. The cool thing is they are in PA. now only 2 hours north of me, looks like some of you had real good results from this print. Soon as the storms move out I’m ready to roll, think it’s a 39 hour print on my setting. I’ll give updates when I start this but for now here’s that AR grip I did

    Armed society is a polite society
    Live A Little Learn A Lot

  5. #625
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    1
    Just started melting a bunch of plastic here as well... this will keep my little printer busy while building my big one.

  6. #626
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    SW FL
    Posts
    22
    All I have to say is you people suck...a lot! JK! I made it to page nine and and i just couldn't stand it. Now my brand new A8 is currently printing it's very first test item. I still have some issues to resolve like that the left z motor/lead screw seem to bind and the whole axis gets all cattywampus because of it. Lets see if it makes it through this test. It's laying down hot plastic, that's enough for today. I'll figure out what the problem is in the next few days. Been wanting to learn how to do this for years, this was the nudge I needed. Thanks, sort of. LOL

  7. #627
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    Pa.
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    171
    Now your in for a ride! I did up grade on the 3D printer and got the CR-10s, and plan on having many hours of printing! Ammo Mike did us good on this, but I was going for the nose down version. Had to do some creative designing for it, built this for my buddy and he sent me some 170 SWC 45's and what a bear they were to get to drop!!!! had to learn CAD to make the parts I was looking for. Good luck with your project and here’s what I ended up with.

    Armed society is a polite society
    Live A Little Learn A Lot

  8. #628
    Boolit Master
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    Oct 2013
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    Nice job!

    I really need to get my collator sorted out, it gets tiresome loading my sizer manually

  9. #629
    Boolit Buddy Cue's Avatar
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    Zebulon, NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorfish View Post
    Basically when it came time for the transport pieces I couldn’t figure out what all the different STL files were so I just designed my own. (Note that I’ve used CAD for decades)

    I bought an Extension Spring for the MBR. This came with not only the spring but also a coupler for joining to another spring. What your seeing there is a 3d printed piece that the coupler simply slides into. It fits tightly but is also secured by a 6mm set screw (5.2mm hole tapped at 6mm).

    In this case I used OpenSCAD to design these parts. It’s very simple software if you know basic programming (and a bit of math). I’d be glad to share the OpenSCAD files but realize I only spent a few hours on my coding to whip out these parts. Again in my situation it was just faster for me to design from scratch rather than trying to analyze a bunch of STL files.


    I would also be interested in this drop tube mount file so I can print one out, I cant get the one on Thingiverse to work very well.

  10. #630
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    50
    Well the bug has bitten me. Started to print today. Got a few things done. Got some of the other stuff in the other day. Tomorrow I will start on the big piece. Said it should take about 20 hours to print.
    I hope I am printing the right pieces. There is so many and hard to make heads or tails from. I guess Ill figure it out when I go to put it together.

  11. #631
    Boolit Master
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    Be sure to show the finished product, they look great from what i have seen that others have done.

  12. #632
    Boolit Bub
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    Oct 2018
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    50
    Click image for larger version. 

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    About 5 more hours to go or so on the main part. Cura really does not give the time correct.
    I have a few more parts to buy. I haven't decided if I want the optical switch or the micro switch yet. And I still have to get a .223 dropper die. But it is all coming together.

    Now I just have to figure out how to mount it on the Dillon 650 along with a electronics box to hold it all. I am sure there is one in that pile of files some where.

  13. #633
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    92
    Working on getting my own collator working now. I got 2 of the JGY 3RPM (highest torque) motors and both perform about the same they work well but only with 50-100 125gr 38sp bullets at a time in the collator. That's actually not as bad as it sounds since most of the holes are filled with bullets all the time it feeds very fast compared to the Hornady. I can put 200-250 in the Hornady with its beefy motor but it is so inefficient at getting bullets into the drop tube it will go empty at some point during 200 rounds of loading and have to wait for it to catch up at the end and it has to be left on and turning the whole time you are loading. (our TC bullets are very very tricky to get working on their collator plate design. The exact settings where it's perfectly reliable is also very slow to fill the tube). The AmmoMike even with the anemic JGY motor will easily feed the drop tube far faster than you can pull the handle on any press. But if you want 200+ in the hopper at once it's not happening with the JGY motor.

    So I decided to do some looking into the ZGMP38 motors so I can use one on my next base print.

    The ET-ZGMP38 motor design is not proprietary it is one of Eton's standard product lines it's just that if you research it long enough you'll notice it isn't a form factor made by very many motor companies. Really only Eton in China and Dayton provide them. Another company called Paragon also sells them but I think they are just another branch of Eton itself.

    This week I sent some emails back and forth with sales at Eton motors in China about the ET-ZGMP38 series just to see what the options might be for small quantities. Minimum order quantity is 1000 pieces. Even a group buy isn't gonna do it. Pricing is great at that quantity, but obviously it should be as the investment is very large.

  14. #634
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    58
    Hi - I am interested in standalone mounting ideas. I currently have my feeder hooked to a 3/4” square tube which I am clamping to the bench. Looking for ideas for easy install/removal from the bench. I am using this with a Lee Pro 1000, so not looking to hook to the press or a brass collator. Thanks

  15. #635
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Boise, ID
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    12
    Hi all. Long time lurker and comment reader, first-time commenter. This design was the impetus for me buying a 3D printer, and I'm loving it so far! I have 14 or so more hours left on the base, and am ordering the other components I'll need. iFun Blue PLA is about the closest match to Dillon Blue that I've found. That is the 650 case feed tube support next to it. Not exact, but close enough for me. I'll be using this with the 650, and also with a Magma Star sizer. So tired of filling tubes! I'll be printing the colator plates with eSun PLA Pro + gray.

    The light barrier switch on thingy is no longer available, but it looks like this is the same one.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/j95G4JzT42J42A1n8

  16. #636
    Boolit Bub schemelschelm's Avatar
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    Feb 2018
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    Germany
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    I finished the bullet collator, too.
    Here are some impressions:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1C79C6DC-8131-4461-A718-1EB520DA1D8A.png   19E7A5E2-ADAA-4149-94DD-F44FD630238A.png   FAD106CF-8803-4435-A2F2-D23F7B30C01E.png  
    Last edited by schemelschelm; 02-07-2019 at 04:24 AM.

  17. #637
    Banned
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    Casa Grande, AZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Advil View Post
    Working on getting my own collator working now. I got 2 of the JGY 3RPM (highest torque) motors and both perform about the same they work well but only with 50-100 125gr 38sp bullets at a time in the collator. That's actually not as bad as it sounds since most of the holes are filled with bullets all the time it feeds very fast compared to the Hornady. I can put 200-250 in the Hornady with its beefy motor but it is so inefficient at getting bullets into the drop tube it will go empty at some point during 200 rounds of loading and have to wait for it to catch up at the end and it has to be left on and turning the whole time you are loading. (our TC bullets are very very tricky to get working on their collator plate design. The exact settings where it's perfectly reliable is also very slow to fill the tube). The AmmoMike even with the anemic JGY motor will easily feed the drop tube far faster than you can pull the handle on any press. But if you want 200+ in the hopper at once it's not happening with the JGY motor.

    So I decided to do some looking into the ZGMP38 motors so I can use one on my next base print.

    The ET-ZGMP38 motor design is not proprietary it is one of Eton's standard product lines it's just that if you research it long enough you'll notice it isn't a form factor made by very many motor companies. Really only Eton in China and Dayton provide them. Another company called Paragon also sells them but I think they are just another branch of Eton itself.

    This week I sent some emails back and forth with sales at Eton motors in China about the ET-ZGMP38 series just to see what the options might be for small quantities. Minimum order quantity is 1000 pieces. Even a group buy isn't gonna do it. Pricing is great at that quantity, but obviously it should be as the investment is very large.

    The company that has the minimum quantity of 1000 pieces.... email them and ask if they will sell a smaller quantity of motors. Tell them you would like to evaluate the motors prior to making a larger purchase. I have done this a number of times and every time I can get say 10-25 pieces of an item without a hitch. Generally they will contact me several times after I purchase a small quantity and ask if I would like to purchase another 10-25 pieces. Your not out anything to try.

  18. #638
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by schemelschelm View Post
    I finished the bullet collator, too.
    Here are some impressions:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Awesome job, nothing like a project working out as well as you hoped it would.

  19. #639
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    3
    Hi every body. This will be one of a my rare post.

    I got my printer a week ago and my first project is this Bullet Feeder. Thanks to Ammomike83. This project was the reason why I bought a printer (ender 3 pro wich is a easy machine).
    I will not write much on castboolits as I am not so good in english but I wanted to give a testimonial.

    Aged 61 I am a old dog but still happy to learn new tricks.

  20. #640
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Hi.

    First let me say to Ammomike, thank you for your hard work on this, and secondarily to all those posting to enhance the epxerience of others using this awesome item.

    I've gone through all 32 pages, and perhaps I missed it...but is there a complete list of what's needed to print out of all the many part files listed in ammomike's thingieverse package for specific calibers?

    My printer blew a gasket last week and thoroughly pissed me off, then I went out of town. Im back now and ready to pick up where I left off. I do think I may be printing things that I might not end up needing.

    Thanks,
    P226 Legion | EDC P365 | Dillon RL1050

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check