Making that Bullet Collator

[Mr_Sheesh]

witz, no, Acetone doesn't smooth PLA, just ABS. PLA takes dichloromethane which is "mildly hard on humans" - Bad inhalation hazard & can enter us through the skin.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Witz, yes size limit is something like 100k-200k; I use imgur and no size limitations

[Anuccite]

Thank you Tyler for the updated Main Body for the M634JS Motor!

[SuperMoose]

Well...I think I have everything I need printed...and most of the hardware has arrived (still waiting on my RL1100 so I can't mount it yet anyway). I began assembly this morning and ran into an issue. Both of my collator plates bind against the wall of the main body on the right hand side (if you're looking at it with the opening directly in front of you). Looking to see what solutions exist to this. The best I could think of was to try to sand the sides of the collator plates down to give more clearance to avoid that. Or alternatively, try to resize them while keeping the center hold the same size and then reprinting...although I feel like that's a pain in the butt. I can snap some pictures if it would be helpful but there is definitely clearance on the left side while none on the right.

Any ideas?

[TylerR]

Well...I think I have everything I need printed...and most of the hardware has arrived (still waiting on my RL1100 so I can't mount it yet anyway). I began assembly this morning and ran into an issue. Both of my collator plates bind against the wall of the main body on the right hand side (if you're looking at it with the opening directly in front of you). Looking to see what solutions exist to this. The best I could think of was to try to sand the sides of the collator plates down to give more clearance to avoid that. Or alternatively, try to resize them while keeping the center hold the same size and then reprinting...although I feel like that's a pain in the butt. I can snap some pictures if it would be helpful but there is definitely clearance on the left side while none on the right.

Any ideas?

This tells me the motor shaft is not quite centered in the collator body most likely.

[GWS]

This tells me the motor shaft is not quite centered in the collator body most likely.

Agree, so try loosening the motor bolts a little and moving or twisting, then retighten. Also make sure there are no proud bolt heads or nuts in the sidewalls that are sticking out. Only takes a little since there is minimum clearance for a reason. (Especially if you are collating rifle bullets.)

[Gussers]

TylerR

Can you add A way to orient the Motor in a different Direction on the M634JS Body?

I'd like to be able to run the motor in this direction.... So it interferes with nothing Regardless of which side I put the mount on....

Don't mind my Crude markup

Attachment 277708

Great to see this! This is what I was asking for last month. The orientation of the motor blocks a set of holes in the casefeeder body. Positioning the motor between the holes means all 3 sets of mounting holes are available to you. How come nobody understood my drawing the first time around?

Hey, I have a question. I searched through the many pages here and didn't see it asked yet. I built the AmmoMike bulletfeeder using the 370 motor. So far, so good. I am planning to print the larger case feeder and was thinking of using the larger version of the 370 I found. It has about double the torque. One thing I see now (and in the documentation) is the motor orientation is such that it will block one set of mounting holes. I see there are three choices (90, 180 and 270 degrees).

My question is why only orient the motor over the holes. Has anyone tried orienting the motor at 135 or 225 degrees? I did a (poor) tinkercad example of what I'm thinking. If the motor was oriented this way, it appears it should't interfere with the various mounting options. At least the holes are all exposed. This would be the same principle for the larger case feeder. Mainly, it would allow some of us to use the cheaper motor like THIS. The linked motor seems to have similar torque specs to the recommended one (40kg/cm) at half the cost.

Forgive my poor tinkercad attempt at illustrating my suggestion. It's not properly scaled, but you should get the idea.
Attachment 276325

[GWS]

Witz, yes size limit is something like 100k-200k; I use imgur and no size limitations

Or postimages.org which was what I found after PhotoBucket's world hosting hostage/sabotage fiasco. I surround img with brackets, enter the link from the hosting, bracket, forward slash, img, bracket. As in [/img]

I found that Acetone helps with PLA some. But it can also glue it together a little while soft, so don't insert a part until it dries. TylerR seems to like it on PLA? Maybe depends on the PLA.... I also found it removes any gloss. I was successful using it to remove print ridges inside my .223 bullet drop, by soaking a rag, wrapping a rod with the rag and pushing it in and out. It left it rough, so then wrapped the rod with 400 grit wet/dry and sanded it smooth. A bit of a pain but it was doable, and worked.

[TylerR]

Or postimages.org which was what I found after PhotoBucket's world hosting hostage/sabotage fiasco. I surround img with brackets, enter the link from the hosting, bracket, forward slash, img, bracket. As in [/img]

I found that Acetone helps with PLA some. But it can also glue it together a little while soft, so don't insert a part until it dries. TylerR seems to like it on PLA? Maybe depends on the PLA.... I also found it removes any gloss. I was successful using it to remove print ridges inside my .223 bullet drop, by soaking a rag, wrapping a rod with the rag and pushing it in and out. It left it rough, so then wrapped the rod with 400 grit wet/dry and sanded it smooth. A bit of a pain but it was doable, and worked.

Acetone does work on PLA for me. It just doesn't work as quickly as it does on ABS. And yes it will make it soft and sticky while you are working with it. Best to let it dry for 10 minutes or so before attempting to sand.

[SuperMoose]

Agree, so try loosening the motor bolts a little and moving or twisting, then retighten. Also make sure there are no proud bolt heads or nuts in the sidewalls that are sticking out. Only takes a little since there is minimum clearance for a reason. (Especially if you are collating rifle bullets.)

Tried that and still a little wonky. I'll keep fiddling with it. I have no nuts on the sidewalls currently so nothing to catch there.

For the slip clutch, the bolt heads are a little proud, so I'll probably try to open that up a bit with a drill to seat them flush.

It's pretty cool to see this coming together and working. I think the slickest thing is the bullet drop dies. For some reason that is just super cool to me.

[SuperMoose]

Took a video to show the problems I'm having. Pictures to follow after Imgur comes back online.

ETA: I don't have the speed controller yet. Just testing everything, so its going at full tilt.

[TylerR]

Took a video to show the problems I'm having. Pictures to follow after Imgur comes back online.

ETA: I don't have the speed controller yet. Just testing everything, so its going at full tilt.

The whole plate appears shifted to the front right corner. Can we get pics of the motor shaft. Also might want to take some measurements to see how far off center it is.
Which motor are you using again?

Just noticed. Your slide plate is in backwards as well.

[SuperMoose]

The whole plate appears shifted to the front right corner. Can we get pics of the motor shaft. Also might want to take some measurements to see how far off center it is.
Which motor are you using again?

Just noticed. Your slide plate is in backwards as well.

Does this work?

[RedlegEd]

Hi.
Could you take a picture from the side so we can see the motor shaft in relation to the body (i.e. is it plumb or tipped off to one side?)
Ed

[TylerR]

Studying those pics, something is not right. It is almost as if something is out of round, because you have 0 clearance at the back left and front right corners. To Ed's point, watching the video I notice that the plate is tilting on its side at times. You can see that right where the plate meets the ramp.

[witz]

I would also think you might be able to accurately measure from the center of the shaft to multiple points around the body. That will at least tell you if the motor is centered or if there is something else. You could always drag the holes slightly to adjust it if necessary.

[witz]

In looking closer to your motor mounting, I see that you have washers under the nuts. Yours might be different, but I had to remove the washers or the nuts stuck up too far. I did use nylock to ensure they don't vibrate lose and they might be a bit taller-maybe run a straight edge over the top to verify the height of all of them and that doesnt make something tip.

[SuperMoose]

Studying those pics, something is not right. It is almost as if something is out of round, because you have 0 clearance at the back left and front right corners. To Ed's point, watching the video I notice that the plate is tilting on its side at times. You can see that right where the plate meets the ramp.

That's what I was noticing as well. I tried adjusting the motor some and it was a little better than before but still having issues. Pictures were taken before I made the adjustment for whatever it is worth.

[SuperMoose]

Wonder if your set screw is hitting an edge and skewing it?

Slider is definitely backwards.....hole goes inside. looks warped too. Did it raise off the bed turning the print?

The "2" should be close to the "M" in "Motor".

Possibly. I'll try to grind it down.

Good to know on the slider. I think that one side did raise up. I'll reprint with a brim.

[TylerR]

That's what I was noticing as well. I tried adjusting the motor some and it was a little better than before but still having issues. Pictures were taken before I made the adjustment for whatever it is worth.

Is it just me or does the hex adapter appear to be leaning to the right in that last pic?