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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #481
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handloader109 View Post
    Glass just cleaned, heated, and hair spray. Light coat, little more second time, more for third. Solutech pla. 205 nozzle, bed 45 degrees. Yep, I have had zero lift running as low as 30. And two and 6 inch high parts. Finishing second layer now. Brim filled in center hole dang it, but nothing is moving yet. I've used half a spool of their black and about half of this spool so far. No problems..... I'm watching for a while, had glob on nozzle after first incident. I stopped 2nd.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    Bed is too cold. Try 60 C
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  2. #482
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    Bumped up and is about a 16% done, 3mm and no issue. One thing I noticed was the two fails were NOT smooth on bottom. So I think I might have been a tad high on my bed level. I've had really smooth bottom layers and these weren't. At any rate, so far so good. I don't expect issue now. Just fun removing the brim. And got my motor (cheapened out and bought a $14 370 as I won't be using that often anyway. Not like Hatch running thru sizer. Got to decide which die to buy. RCBS, Hornady or MRB as Lee looks like it won't easily work on my 650xl. None have great reviews, but I guess that is to be expected.

  3. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handloader109 View Post
    Bumped up and is about a 16% done, 3mm and no issue. One thing I noticed was the two fails were NOT smooth on bottom. So I think I might have been a tad high on my bed level. I've had really smooth bottom layers and these weren't. At any rate, so far so good. I don't expect issue now. Just fun removing the brim. And got my motor (cheapened out and bought a $14 370 as I won't be using that often anyway. Not like Hatch running thru sizer. Got to decide which die to buy. RCBS, Hornady or MRB as Lee looks like it won't easily work on my 650xl. None have great reviews, but I guess that is to be expected.
    Amazing how 75% looks like almost 100%... 30% and three hours into it.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  4. #484
    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    Attachment 218681

    Material is "Ultimaker Black PLA"
    awesome - thanks !

  5. #485
    Quote Originally Posted by Handloader109 View Post
    Bumped up and is about a 16% done, 3mm and no issue. One thing I noticed was the two fails were NOT smooth on bottom. So I think I might have been a tad high on my bed level. I've had really smooth bottom layers and these weren't. At any rate, so far so good. I don't expect issue now. Just fun removing the brim. And got my motor (cheapened out and bought a $14 370 as I won't be using that often anyway. Not like Hatch running thru sizer. Got to decide which die to buy. RCBS, Hornady or MRB as Lee looks like it won't easily work on my 650xl. None have great reviews, but I guess that is to be expected.
    I might have to try a brim for the first time ever ... every one of these parts ive printed so far ... has had some edge somewhere - some small edges and one colator plate [ alot ] [ trashed ] ... So youre not alone - maybe run it a little hotter ...

  6. #486
    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    Please read the instructions on thingiverse
    Where are these instructions on thingiverse AmmoMike - Ive managed to completely miss this/them ...

  7. #487
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    7 hours 20 min. Perfect so far as I can tell. Btw, Brim pulled off so easy it was not funny. Hadn't lifted at all. Got to let cool a bit but looks good. Waiting on a pla clear to do bucket. Wanted to see how clear it is.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  8. #488
    Well Done Handloader ... Tip o' the ol Hat Brim .. to ya ...

  9. #489
    Ditched the blue tape and now using glass with good ol Aqua net xtra strong hold. Running some test pieces before I go all in on the main body again. Got another spool of PLA to have on hand too.

  10. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibbykins View Post
    Ditched the blue tape and now using glass with good ol Aqua net xtra strong hold. Running some test pieces before I go all in on the main body again. Got another spool of PLA to have on hand too.
    Make sure you downloaded the last version from yesterday!
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  11. #491
    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    Make sure you downloaded the last version from yesterday!
    Ohhh man ... what changed now LOL ...

    I just read about some dooodz on dillon fb group discussing their MBF motor is driving the Pin / small rod - thru the 100% infill collator plates centers if the boooolitts get a jam. Talk to me Goose.

  12. #492
    Also - been meaning to ask ... sorry to be thick. But If I just setup for .45 ACP ... will the same spring and end stop switch / trigger for the motor etc still work for 5.56 [ and other smaller diam calibers ... ] or do i need to be changing out Spring and mount under the base for the different calibers ?
    Last edited by InfringedNSocal; 04-19-2018 at 04:26 PM.

  13. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibbykins View Post
    Ditched the blue tape and now using glass with good ol Aqua net xtra strong hold. Running some test pieces before I go all in on the main body again. Got another spool of PLA to have on hand too.
    With most of my prints, I had REALLY good hold using the above glass and spray. The collator that I just printed wouldn't come off at room temp after printing. Why I had trouble initially I still think was a slightly larger gap at level. The bottom of the collator isn't smooth as early prints and Printing today gave me smooth surface after adjusting just slightly. Go figure.
    Oh, I put the plate and collator in freezer and went to bed. Pulled out this morning and they had separated in freezer. Easy trick. I've two panes, so I can swap.... Now if my rolls of material will ever show up I'll make some more of this thing.

  14. #494
    well the base is now 23% in. I am a bit concerned about some of the screw holes, a few look like the initial layers had some issue grabbing onto the glass and thus are not as defined or reinforced as they should be... aaand my extruder fan funnel decided to pop off the **** unit at some point over the night. Click image for larger version. 

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    Instead of cancelling it, I think im gonna let it continue to print. I have a feeling I could put some sort of insert into the questionable holes. What do yall think?

  15. #495
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibbykins View Post
    well the base is now 23% in. I am a bit concerned about some of the screw holes, a few look like the initial layers had some issue grabbing onto the glass and thus are not as defined or reinforced as they should be... aaand my extruder fan funnel decided to pop off the **** unit at some point over the night. Click image for larger version. 

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    Instead of cancelling it, I think im gonna let it continue to print. I have a feeling I could put some sort of insert into the questionable holes. What do yall think?
    Don't worry about the holes. You have to drill them anyway.
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  16. #496
    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    Don't worry about the holes. You have to drill them anyway.
    10-4. I copied the print settings you shared yesterday or the day before and I will say the print is looking loads better than the last few I pumped out.

  17. #497
    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    Don't worry about the holes. You have to drill them anyway.
    Yeah ... about that ...




    Much more tweeking needed but its a start - be nice to have the .step of the base unit to remake the 4 holes for brass inserts / M3 threads. Reducing the stl file down to a workable set of facets kinda grinds away on the lil machines here. Also havent gotten to the point of understanding the design of the current nose cones that connect to the bullet drop springs - but just a matter of time. Noodling a method to make the different caliber spring connector nosecones - SNAP into the part that is stationary on the bottom of the baseplate [ bowl ] ....

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  18. #498
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Yeah ... about that ...




    Much more tweeking needed but its a start - be nice to have the .step of the base unit to remake the 4 holes for brass inserts / M3 threads. Reducing the stl file down to a workable set of facets kinda grinds away on the lil machines here. Also havent gotten to the point of understanding the design of the current nose cones that connect to the bullet drop springs - but just a matter of time. Noodling a method to make the different caliber spring connector nosecones - SNAP into the part that is stationary on the bottom of the baseplate [ bowl ] ....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You won't need any brass inserts.

  19. #499
    Main body fresh off the printer. This sucker was locked on the glass something fierce. 20 minutes in the freezer and it popped right off. Thanks for that tip Handloader109! I see we have several options for the spring housing, which one would be the correct housing for using the MBF springs?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by shibbykins; 04-21-2018 at 12:11 PM.

  20. #500
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    Yep, I printed the double sided turning plate last night and put in fridge as I went to bed. Was stuck solid. Slid of this morning. BTW, you'd think a pane of glass would be fairly consistent right? wrong. I cut two pieces for my printer out of a very large broken piece we hadn't discarded and they are different enough I have to level bed when I swap. Don't forget to do that when you take off anyway.

    And I think I should give you guys a heads up. Don't know who you are buying filament from. But AVOID Maker Geeks like the plague! I was wanting to try them as they are only a couple of hours from me in Springfield, MO and all US made. A very large variety of PLA and PETG. Several different qualities/grades and bunches of color. But ZERO stock I guess. The internet stock is NOT actual. Ordered a couple of rolls on April 1st and still haven't seen the first roll, or tracking number. This is after three different Customer service discussions and guarantees that yes, this is in stock and will ship tomorrow. Buyer beware.....

    Oh, and they charged me for order up front......

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check